A few years ago I discovered via Youtube that Betty Crocker is not a real person, and it's a random fact I love to tell people. Last year, I found this book in a Minnesotan lighthouse gift shop and was excited to dive into her story. Susan Marks does an excellent job tracing the history of Betty and the women behind her image.
Betty Crocker was "born" in the early 1920s after the Washburn Crosby Company (forerunner to General Mills and creator of Gold Medal Flour) hosted an advertising campaign where people could solve a scrambled jigsaw puzzle and return it by mail for a giveaway. The campaign was a huge success and received over 30,000 puzzles back along with hundreds of letters requesting advice on how to cook and bake. The department manager, Samuel Gale, normally answered the letters, but knew women would rather accept advice from a fellow woman rather than from him. His department had also never received such an insane volume of questions. Samuel and his supervisor took the problem to the company directors and this resulted in a new employee, Betty Crocker, "Betty" being chosen for its homey feel, and "Crocker" named after a recent director of the Washburn Crosby Company. Employees could now answer letters with one name and signature, and Betty kept just kept evolving into something more far-reaching and spectacular.
Many women contributed to the creation of Betty Crocker, but two especially had an important influence. One was Marjorie Child Husted, a graduate of the University of Minnesota and a Red Cross relief worker. Husted had worked with many underprivileged woman and wanted to help equip them to meet basic needs. She wrote hundreds of the scripts for Betty's radio broadcast, showing listeners practical and economic ways to make food. This helped many women, especially during WW2 and Depression era, where Betty shared ration-friendly recipes (relying heavily on General Mills products for the PERFECT easy bake). Women--and some men--flocked to her program and letters poured in, telling Betty how much she had changed their lives. Marjorie was the "face" of Betty Crocker when people visited General Mills and invested her life into Betty's persona for the next several decades until her retirement in 1950.
Another fascinating woman was Neysa McMein, an artist who created an official portrait of Betty for the fifteenth anniversary of her creation. McMein is best known for her work with McCalls patterns and also worked with other major publications like The Saturday Evening Post. She was "an urban socialite who didn't know how to cook, hosted a nightly salon in her studio across from Carnegie Hall, and kept a whiskey still in her bathroom." I adore how McMein brought Betty to life for her fans, yet her personal life was so divorced from Betty's innocent home-making image.
Betty Crocker was an interesting mix of being genuinely helpful to millions of housewives and also promoting unhealthy consumerism and the misogynistic tendencies of the 50s. She offered easy, helpful resources to women, giving them kitchen-tested recipes in a rapidly changing world. Women needed her voice. Her recipe boxes and illustrated cookbooks were innovative for their time, and editions of her "Big Red" cookbook are still being released every several years. Later in her history, General Mills created the Betty Crocker kitchens, various themed kitchens people could come and tour. Tours ended in the 80s, and that made me sad because I definitely would have visited.
On the darker side, Betty promoted problematic mindsets from her time. Her advertising struck me as very male-centered with an unhealthy relationship between love and food. While it's not inherently bad to please your partner, promoting the fear that someone will cheat on you because you are a bad cook is just...toxic. General Mills also used Betty's image to promote a high level of consumerism, especially with their strong emphasis on boxed mixes. This definitely helped women as they juggled working outside the home and taking care of their families, but personally, I feel there is a lot of magic in making baked goods from scratch, and we've lost some of those skillsets.
With all her flaws, Betty is a brilliant marketing idea that actually worked and helped a lot of people. If you want a fascinating look into a piece of American culinary history, check this out. It's a pretty fast read, filled with lots of illustrations and stories of how Betty changed the lives and kitchens of women everywhere.