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463 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2002
Its near-symmetrical pyramid form is like the blueprint for an archetypal mountain, the resonant shape of a fairytale peak from a children’s story book. It is here that St Patrick is said to have issued the exclusion order banishing all snakes from Ireland when, in 441, he spent forty days and forty nights fasting at the summit.
The final ascent to the summit is a steep one, scrambling over loose rock and shale that’s been badly eroded by the constant passage of pilgrims. As I’m taking a breather and munching on a life-enhancing apple, a woman comes bounding down the precipitous slope at a tremendous pace. . . . It’s Vicki, the Kiwi hitch-hiker I picked up a few days ago, timing herself in some kind of masochistic speed trial against the mountain. New Zealanders will never walk up or down anything if there’s a chance it will hurt more to run instead. Theirs is not a country so much as a fitness camp. Why look at something, they reason, when it will toughen me up if I charge at it with my head?
My hips and knees are aching from the impact of walking down, which always hurts more than walking
up, but I’m feeling good for having done it. And it’s not just the physical buzz from working off the squid and black pudding. There’s a spiritual element too, and it comes not from any inherent power or magic the mountain possesses, but from what’s been bestowed on it by the people who have gone there every hour, every day, for millennia. And for once, my delight in a place has been enhanced by having lots of people around, knowing that they’re all still furthering that process.
As the boatman welcomes me with a steely glare, I feel like Edward Woodward as the doomed policeman heading out the island at the beginning of The Wicker Man.
Except, of course, that he didn’t know how The Wicker Man ended. I do.
The lake is shimmering like the Mediterranean under a bright sun as we cross back to the mainland. If it were a film, this would be a grotesque cliché, sin and gloom transformed into grace and sunlight by the redemptive magic of the pilgrimage. As it’s actually happening, I’m doing my best to ignore its symbolic significance, and just enjoy the weather. I can’t deny, though, that I’m feeling good. There’s a crispiness and clearness to things that has nothing to do with the sunlight. This has been powerful medicine. If it can do this to me, what must the true believers be feeling?
“Here’s the way I see it. I’ve read Terence’s books and I thought they were great stories. I read ’em, I close ’em, and I put ’em back on the shelf. And d’you know what? I don’t want to know whether they’re true or
not.”
He takes a drink and a pause for thought.
“It doesn’t actually matter whether they’re true, or whether his claim to be prince of Desmond was true. The point was, it brought people together. It was a fraternal organization. C’mon! We knew we weren’t really related. So what? It was a starting point. It’s shot to hell now with this scandal.”
"Fitness is an overrated virtue in a law enforcement officer. In their way these guys are much more menacing. They're putting out a subliminal message: 'Don't run away. We can't chase you, so we'll have to shoot.'"
"This is what tourists do all over the world. You see a sign for something you've never heard of and probably wouldn't cross the road to see at home, and, bang, you're there. And then people tell you about other things you ought to go and see. Once you're in a small obscure are that the rest of the world knows nothing about someone will say, 'Our big attraction is Satan's Drain. You really should go.' So you do. And you develop an interest in geological features and sea levels and all sorts of other stuff you've never cared about before..."
"There are few more comforting experiences for the traveler than to journey great distances through unfamiliar and threatening landscapes, anticipating an austere and possibly squalid destination, only to discover that catering and interior design are not in the hands of heterosexuals."
This is a great introduction to Irish history and the influence that the Irish people have had around the world.