A more honest title for this book would be 'The Mostly Rich White Man's History of Tea', rather than claiming to be 'The History' of tea.
I should start with the positives. Confusingly enough, this book is very interesting to read. Although, going through, there are SO many problems littered throughout, it's engaging. There doesn't seem to be any reason to mistrust the solid facts that are presented to you, and it's different to the orthodox in historical writing. Like tea itself, it is refreshing. I enjoyed reading it, even if I do not believe that this is a good book.
But, now on to the more disapproving side. I have an extremely pressing moral issue with this book, in that it is extremely Imperialist. This is made so much worse from the fact that the author makes it throughout the book that he is from a family of Imperialists who ran tea plantations. Sensing the issue here?
Because of this, the book is constantly on the defense of tea planters. Phrases such as 'in defense of the tea planters' crop up a lot to defend the planters who were exploitative, violent and even murderous towards the native labourers who worked below them. The author stubbornly refuses to see the hugely problematic nature of empire. How Europe prospered by crushing the bones of those that we dominated. He also refers to the labourers as 'coolies', even though he openly admits this is a derogatory term? Ergo, engagement with casual racism.
He also uses his last few paragraphs to claim that tea is a British drink above all other countries. I'm sure that it takes just a pinch of common sense to realise that this is a huge stretch of the truth. Yes, this is his opinion. But when you consider that tea only came to England on the backs of Empire, where no interest was shown in it before the 17th century, how can this claim be made? Especially when you have other cultures that have cultivated and drunk it for thousands of years, and therefore have it deeply entrenched in their heritage. I think that is enough to propose that his claim is morally and factually incorrect.
Furthermore, the author is an insufferable tea snob, to use the colloquial vernacular (which, he actually constantly accuses various people of being, which is a great irony). He heavily looks down upon those who drink tea for convenience, anyone who uses teabags, and practically anyone who does not indulge in the finest leaf tea. Now, he is clearly a highly affluent man who can afford to drink very fine, loose leaf tea constantly, so it is incredibly insulting to hear these kind of denigration.
I also take massive issue with his condescension towards the teabag. Now, as I have previously mentioned he claims that tea is the drink of the British. There is NO way that tea could have reached the popularity it has done in Britain without the tea bag. Tea would have been much more expensive without it. It wouldn't be able to be drunk at the levels it is drunk in this country today, and would have probably been replaced by coffee. However, given his general patronising tone towards anything that isn't of the finest quality, I doubt his view of the 'British tea drinker' encompasses anyone that isn't of his social caste. Yes, it would be lovely to always be able to drink loose tea, very recently plucked that is of the finest quality, but that's an unobtainable expectation for the vast majority of us.
To sum up; this book is interesting and enjoyable, and I think he HAS done his research. But, the way the research is presented with a huge Imperial bias, massive pretensions and classism and with pepperings of cultural appropriation and slight amounts of racism. I would not recommend this to anyone, except perhaps if someone was doing a project on White Europeans who think that a culture stolen in Imperial days is solely theirs.
On a last note, this reminds me of an episode of The Simpsons where they go to a Korean BBQ, and the white (well, yellow - but that is The Simpsons form of white, I assume) people claim to have discovered Korean BBQ 'in this town'. When derided, they respond by saying 'they (the Koreans) cook it, but they don't get it'. It sounds ridiculous, but that is very similar to what this book claims about tea.