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Self-Coached Climber
A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, "The Self-Coached Climber" offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.14a/b redpoint attempt by Adam Stack and Chris Lindner. Includes 52 practical training exercises designed to advance technique, detailed anatomical illustrations that explain climbing physiology and an 85-minute DVD that shows concepts in action.
240 pages, Paperback
Published February 17, 2006
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 31 reviews
June 30, 2009
This is a must-read for any rock climber desiring to advance his/her climbing skills. The author lays out a program that builds on basic (yet necessary) skills and introduces concepts that many climbers may not have ever thought about. Although I have not yet practiced the skills in a deliberate fashion, just having read the book has given my climbing a boost. The stuff about body positioning, using the legs to begin movement, and controlling the center of gravity is very useful. I would have liked a longer chapter about the mental game, but as a friend of mine said, that's what the book "The Rock Warrior's Way" is for.
February 2, 2015
Awesome book. Just reading gives you +0.5 grade (if you are below 5.11+). Reading attentively gives +1. And, finally, if you really understood some bits - it will boost you up to +1.5. %)
November 9, 2024
Really good!
December 18, 2013
A really good training book. I've read Dave Mcleod's 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes which is also good. However, it is more a book for someone who's in a rut and needs motivation. This book however excels at giving pratical advise on how a climber can improve there training. This is done through more than 30 activities that focus on all aspects of training from movement skills, endurance (both anerobic and aerobic), strength, and power. The authors also offer a method of constructing a basis of current conditioning and schedule for training that.
The writing is well researched and well written. I can feel the knowledge of the authors and the authority of there ideas. Diffently a keeper to reference and great for climber looking for useful activities for individual weaknesses they've discovered but still wondering how to correct them as there is bound to be something in here to assist in that!
Very recommeneded.
The writing is well researched and well written. I can feel the knowledge of the authors and the authority of there ideas. Diffently a keeper to reference and great for climber looking for useful activities for individual weaknesses they've discovered but still wondering how to correct them as there is bound to be something in here to assist in that!
Very recommeneded.
December 2, 2021
The authors here try not to assume, and they do a good job, but ultimately this book assumes you are a ropes-based climber with gym access who wants to climb hard outdoors on the weekends with a reliable training partner but no coach who also exclusively exercises through climbing.
It's redundant at points and sometimes misses the mark on how basic/how specific and in depth it should be. I believe the exercise science segments may be a little more focused on lactic acid then is truly representative of the kinesiological system.
With those criticisms aside I learned a lot. Here are some of my takeaways:
-climbers often unknowingly focus emotional energy on specifics that will not help them. Any bad hand or foothold becomes the emotional center of a movement as you concentrate on gripping it. But fingers and toes are not good movement initiators, and focusing on holding them (stillness) as opposed to moving between them can leave you stuck.
-Learning movements in stressful environments can ingrained bad habits like overgripping, initiating from the arms, and normalizing fear/failure/defeat
-Plyometrics sometimes refers specifically to the use of eccentric, negative movements before concentric movements to utilize the stretch reflex aka reciprocal inhibition
-Aerobic climbing training: 45mins, movement practice, stay away from pump, do often.
-ARC aerobic, restoration, capillary training: look for warm/active forearms, not stiff/tight/pump.
-Anaerobic training: 70-80% effort, 3-5 minutes on and 3-5 minutes resting. 4x4, laps, 6x8. Goal build stamina for 4-5 solid redpoints in a day in addition to 2-3 warmups and cooldowns
-Recruitment training: 3- reps. Beyond Threshold bouldering as aspirationally useful? Do fresh.
-Aerobic energy production system has bootup time. Capillaries have bootup time to open up for circulation. Even fascia, myofybrioblasts, have 15-30 minutes startup time. No warmup = flash pump.
It's redundant at points and sometimes misses the mark on how basic/how specific and in depth it should be. I believe the exercise science segments may be a little more focused on lactic acid then is truly representative of the kinesiological system.
With those criticisms aside I learned a lot. Here are some of my takeaways:
-climbers often unknowingly focus emotional energy on specifics that will not help them. Any bad hand or foothold becomes the emotional center of a movement as you concentrate on gripping it. But fingers and toes are not good movement initiators, and focusing on holding them (stillness) as opposed to moving between them can leave you stuck.
-Learning movements in stressful environments can ingrained bad habits like overgripping, initiating from the arms, and normalizing fear/failure/defeat
-Plyometrics sometimes refers specifically to the use of eccentric, negative movements before concentric movements to utilize the stretch reflex aka reciprocal inhibition
-Aerobic climbing training: 45mins, movement practice, stay away from pump, do often.
-ARC aerobic, restoration, capillary training: look for warm/active forearms, not stiff/tight/pump.
-Anaerobic training: 70-80% effort, 3-5 minutes on and 3-5 minutes resting. 4x4, laps, 6x8. Goal build stamina for 4-5 solid redpoints in a day in addition to 2-3 warmups and cooldowns
-Recruitment training: 3- reps. Beyond Threshold bouldering as aspirationally useful? Do fresh.
-Aerobic energy production system has bootup time. Capillaries have bootup time to open up for circulation. Even fascia, myofybrioblasts, have 15-30 minutes startup time. No warmup = flash pump.
November 11, 2017
The Self-Coached Climber is a thorough and extensive book with a rich variety of practical exercises and drills for climbers. In addition, the authors include facts and reference peer-reviewed studies as they progress through each chapter. This raised my confidence that what was being shared wasn’t hearsay or purposive but rather, the extensively studied and confirmed in the field. And if the authors broached a topic on the edge of our understanding, such as the utility of campus boards and system walls in training, they said exactly that.
The book includes sample training plans and a training DVD. I expect this book, now that I’ve finished it, to turn into a reference I consult time and time again as my climbing competency, and my needs, change.
The book includes sample training plans and a training DVD. I expect this book, now that I’ve finished it, to turn into a reference I consult time and time again as my climbing competency, and my needs, change.
January 29, 2020
This book was recommended by a climbing friend, and I can see why. Coming from a dance-heavy background, the balance-based approach the authors take is easy to follow and understand, and is encouraging for new climbers who have minimal upper body strength. I'll be implementing at least most of the exercises as soon as I can!
July 23, 2023
In my opinion better than Eric J. Hörst 's books. Why? Because it marks some differences with other sports. That way one better 'understands' the specificity of climbing. Also it is very complete and innovative.
January 20, 2018
Essential guide to self improvement
May 26, 2018
too hard
May 2, 2020
No mention of any crack climbing technique in the entire book. 3 *'s because of the mental advice and training/pyramids and exercises. Still would not recommend to any but the most novice.
December 7, 2022
At times it can feel a bit over explained, but the drills and fundamentals explained here are beyond worth it.
December 7, 2023
Some of the training methodology/recommendations is outdated, but the first half of the book focused on movement is gold.
February 21, 2017
the exercises really helped me become a more mindful and motivated climber.
August 21, 2013
Like most technique and training books, the worth is in the utility of the exercises and how effective they are. This book presents a model of climbing movement that is both technical in it's treatment of physiology and practical in a relatively simple model of balance and efficiency of motion.
First the author describes what he considers the main components of climbing, beginning from the simple concepts of balance, force, space, and time. From this beginning he increasingly becomes more specific, leading to a discussion of specific movements a climber will preform on the rock. His main tool for visualizing climbing motion is the climbers center of gravity relative to a "base of support" formed by the other contact points with the wall. To the degree you can keep you center of gravity low, and base of support large, you will feel increased stability and less demand on the hands to pull your body into balance.
The base of support metaphor is pretty good, and does suggest the forces acting on a climber. What makes the model practical is that it can be felt by a climber by paying attention to the direction of force on their body and thus learn to precisely that control of force to move in the direction they want as efficiently as possible.
The book presents specific activities a climber can to do become more aware of their movement. Further activities for training as also discussed.
Overall I'd very much recommend this as a climbing technique book. Also try to get the DVD, to help visualize the content.
First the author describes what he considers the main components of climbing, beginning from the simple concepts of balance, force, space, and time. From this beginning he increasingly becomes more specific, leading to a discussion of specific movements a climber will preform on the rock. His main tool for visualizing climbing motion is the climbers center of gravity relative to a "base of support" formed by the other contact points with the wall. To the degree you can keep you center of gravity low, and base of support large, you will feel increased stability and less demand on the hands to pull your body into balance.
The base of support metaphor is pretty good, and does suggest the forces acting on a climber. What makes the model practical is that it can be felt by a climber by paying attention to the direction of force on their body and thus learn to precisely that control of force to move in the direction they want as efficiently as possible.
The book presents specific activities a climber can to do become more aware of their movement. Further activities for training as also discussed.
Overall I'd very much recommend this as a climbing technique book. Also try to get the DVD, to help visualize the content.
February 6, 2025
A climber's guide to movement, training and performance.
I've recently gotten into bouldering (a form of free climbing where you climb on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses).
It's an absolutely amazing workout and it's super fun. After getting into the sport relatively blind, I decided to inform myself by reading a book on the subject. I checked reddit and picked up the first book that was mentioned.
I've been enthusiastic about bouldering ever since I started doing it a few weeks ago. After reading this book and getting back to the gym to put the theory into practice, I've fallen in love with it.
Gaining a better understanding of what climbing actually is (a form of vertical dancing) allowed me to complete harder climbs than I was able to previously and, in doing so, made me feel like a god.
I've recently gotten into bouldering (a form of free climbing where you climb on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses).
It's an absolutely amazing workout and it's super fun. After getting into the sport relatively blind, I decided to inform myself by reading a book on the subject. I checked reddit and picked up the first book that was mentioned.
I've been enthusiastic about bouldering ever since I started doing it a few weeks ago. After reading this book and getting back to the gym to put the theory into practice, I've fallen in love with it.
Gaining a better understanding of what climbing actually is (a form of vertical dancing) allowed me to complete harder climbs than I was able to previously and, in doing so, made me feel like a god.
January 7, 2013
This book is full of great training advice. The book contains various drills to improve all facets of your climbing; movement, footwork, mental, emotional, anaerobic and aerobic systems. With training frequency suggestions and suggested schedules this book tells you everything you'd need to know to improve your climbing technique.
I'm hoping to take some of what this book suggests and apply it to the time I'm able to spend climbing. I'll also be paying more attention and recording how I feel while climbing and what type of routes I'm working on in order to try to identify weaknesses and strengths.
I'd recommend this book to people who are serious about wanting to dedicate time to improving their climbing. If all goes as planned I expect that I'll be referring back to this book over and over again over the next few months.
I'm hoping to take some of what this book suggests and apply it to the time I'm able to spend climbing. I'll also be paying more attention and recording how I feel while climbing and what type of routes I'm working on in order to try to identify weaknesses and strengths.
I'd recommend this book to people who are serious about wanting to dedicate time to improving their climbing. If all goes as planned I expect that I'll be referring back to this book over and over again over the next few months.
February 27, 2015
I rate this book 5 stars not for myself, but for others. In my opinion, if you are only going to read a single book on training for climbing, this is the one you should read. Hague and Hunter clearly explain the physiological principles of movement; balance; and strength, power, and endurance. They then layout specific exercises that will help you improve those skills. They even delve into mental training and developing a holistic training program. There are more specialized books which explain certain concepts more fully (eg RCTM for physical training and Maximum Climbing for mental training), but the authors of SCC do a perfectly adequate job for most beginners. Furthermore, advanced climbers can also benefit from this book, as the first section on movement and balance is invaluable and quite unique.
January 11, 2016
Just like the title says: "Self-coached climber". If you're a climber who wants to improve his climbing game, yet have no-one to tech you how to actually climb better (yes climbing gyms are full of jerks), then this book is for you.
It has everything from explaining every climbing move, describing the situation when to use them, and drills to make those moves your second nature.
Then it steps up a notch teaching you how to send harder routes, and then gives you training program depending on the grade you wish to climb.
Plus it has a DVD which explains in even more detail how to do each move and drill.
Well worth your money! I strongly recommend it.
It has everything from explaining every climbing move, describing the situation when to use them, and drills to make those moves your second nature.
Then it steps up a notch teaching you how to send harder routes, and then gives you training program depending on the grade you wish to climb.
Plus it has a DVD which explains in even more detail how to do each move and drill.
Well worth your money! I strongly recommend it.
December 27, 2015
Mój pierwszy poradnik wspinaczkowy. Wydaje się dosyć kompleksowy, jest mowa i o technice, i o sile, i o głowie. Mam tylko wrażenie, że dużo podstaw już mnie nie dotyczy, a wiele pięknych planów treningowych jest nierobialnych przez gościa który nie może poświęcić 4 godzin 4 razy w tygodniu. Mimo to i tak fajnie pomaga zrozumieć swoje braki i czuję że po powrocie w lutym uda mi sie zbudować ładny plan na kilka rodzajów wytrzymałości. Napewno będę wracał do tej ksiażki. No i muszę przemyśleć swoje cele długoterminowe.
December 31, 2012
If you're even remotely serious about climbing you should get it. It has tons of practical and detailed technical information. One review I read here said that it's hard to read for pleasure because it's so technical and it's exactly right but it serves as a fantastic reference.
January 16, 2015
enlightening perspective and approach to rock climbing that emphasizes balance, movement, and initiation centers. after climbing for 1.5 years, this is the perfect read. everything makes sense, a good deal has yet to be learned or perfected, and bad habits can be (hopefully) ironed out.
August 29, 2016
Best book I've read when it comes to technique. Lots of great exercises and some good input for your training. However, if you are looking for strength training, power training and/or training programs I would look elsewhere.
January 16, 2022
i love the exercises offered in this book. i get bored going to a gym and just doing routes. it’s fun to mix it up and try to use my body in the most efficient way possible while running drills and traversing laps.
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April 30, 2008It's almost like a textbook on the physiology and psychology behind climbing...good for climbers who want to take it to the next level.
July 18, 2012
Good book, but kind of tough to read for pleasure because it's so technical...It does have good training and overall climbing tips...
February 1, 2015
The best climbing book I've come across. Really good exercises to try out and techniques to keep in mind when in the gym or at the crag. Constantly referencing it.
November 8, 2014
The book has proven itself to be very useful in understanding the trajectory of learning involved in climbing. The text supports being mindful with your body and the way you should apply it.
March 18, 2016
This is the perfect book for folks who want to mindfully get to the next levels in climbing through dedicated and intentional practice.
January 31, 2016
I was able to cherry-pick some advice I felt applied to me. Really enjoyed the sections on Balance, and the science behind ATP and ADP.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 31 reviews