“AB: I think great chefs evolve that balance between what they themselves can bring, creatively and technically. The great chefs understand human desire. They can balance nurturing with the desire to dazzle or seduce or impress. They understand those things, instinctively if not explicitly. They may not be able to articulate them, necessarily. But they do understand. There’s a lot going on. Ferran Adria, Thomas Keller. There is Mom’s voice in there somewhere. Because without that, it’s a sterile experience. It doesn’t really resonate as powerfully as it could.”