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Fear and Loathing in Fitzrovia
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Walking/drinking tour of Fitzrovia
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This video is a good introduction to contemporary Fitzrovia and its history.
Viva Fitzrovia takes you through the back streets and labyrinthine alleys of that most intriguing and mysterious district of London - Fitzrovia.
Traditionally the hang out of artists, criminals, revolutionaries and ladies of the night, Fitzrovia may have become ever so slightly gentrified in recent years, but its past still hangs heavy in the air. You don't have to know anything about it to sense it, to feel it.
Viva Fitzrovia explores the region's past, and the varied collection of artists and characters associated with it . It also looks at the contemporary issues directly affecting Londoners today - such as the recent demolition of the Middlesex Hospital and what is to be built in its place. It also deals with the heated debate surrounding the estate agents and property developers who want to re-name the area .... Noho.
With a host of illuminating interviewees including publisher and poet Felix Dennis, author Mike Pentelow, photographer Peter Mackertich, Viva Fitzrovia is an enlightening and thought provoking visual essay into London's past, present and future.
Viva Fitzrovia takes you through the back streets and labyrinthine alleys of that most intriguing and mysterious district of London - Fitzrovia.
Traditionally the hang out of artists, criminals, revolutionaries and ladies of the night, Fitzrovia may have become ever so slightly gentrified in recent years, but its past still hangs heavy in the air. You don't have to know anything about it to sense it, to feel it.
Viva Fitzrovia explores the region's past, and the varied collection of artists and characters associated with it . It also looks at the contemporary issues directly affecting Londoners today - such as the recent demolition of the Middlesex Hospital and what is to be built in its place. It also deals with the heated debate surrounding the estate agents and property developers who want to re-name the area .... Noho.
With a host of illuminating interviewees including publisher and poet Felix Dennis, author Mike Pentelow, photographer Peter Mackertich, Viva Fitzrovia is an enlightening and thought provoking visual essay into London's past, present and future.
My first job, in the late 1970s, as a 16 year old messenger, was at a film company in the basement of Boston House in Fitzroy Square so I got to know the area pretty well. We'll probably kick off the tour in Fitzroy Square for that very reason, and that it gives the area its name.
In those days I regularly used to see Kenneth Williams wandering about.
Sadly back then I was more interesting in buying records, smoking, drinking, gigs and clubbing so also missed a lot of the rich heritage of the area.
We will almost certainly call into the Wheatsheaf and The Bricklayers Arms to wallow in the Julian Maclaren-Ross connection. When Julian Maclaren-Ross wasn't holding court in his main pub of choice The Wheatsheaf, he was in The Bricklayers Arms. If you're wondering about Julian Maclaren-Ross then look no further than Paul Willetts’s biography “Fear and Loathing in Fitzrovia”.

Maclaren-Ross is synonymous with the bohemian world of mid-twentieth-century Soho and Fitzrovia.
During his lifetime he appears to have produced a substantial and astonishingly diverse body of writing. He was usually motivated by a chronic lack of cash. Like many of his generation and class he enjoyed an affluent and comfortable middle-class Edwardian upbringing, only to discover the family money was gone by the 1930s. What money he made seemed to be spent almost immediately, frequently in central London hostelries. The constant need for cash meant when he wasn't holding court in a pub he was writing. All of this made for a turbulent and interesting life. Paul Willetts describes him as a "mediocre caretaker of his own immense talent". That sums up his self-destructive life.
In those days I regularly used to see Kenneth Williams wandering about.
Sadly back then I was more interesting in buying records, smoking, drinking, gigs and clubbing so also missed a lot of the rich heritage of the area.
We will almost certainly call into the Wheatsheaf and The Bricklayers Arms to wallow in the Julian Maclaren-Ross connection. When Julian Maclaren-Ross wasn't holding court in his main pub of choice The Wheatsheaf, he was in The Bricklayers Arms. If you're wondering about Julian Maclaren-Ross then look no further than Paul Willetts’s biography “Fear and Loathing in Fitzrovia”.

Maclaren-Ross is synonymous with the bohemian world of mid-twentieth-century Soho and Fitzrovia.
During his lifetime he appears to have produced a substantial and astonishingly diverse body of writing. He was usually motivated by a chronic lack of cash. Like many of his generation and class he enjoyed an affluent and comfortable middle-class Edwardian upbringing, only to discover the family money was gone by the 1930s. What money he made seemed to be spent almost immediately, frequently in central London hostelries. The constant need for cash meant when he wasn't holding court in a pub he was writing. All of this made for a turbulent and interesting life. Paul Willetts describes him as a "mediocre caretaker of his own immense talent". That sums up his self-destructive life.
We might add in a side order of music history too. The Speakeasy was located @ 48 Margaret Street and currently looks like this...

The venue opened in 1966, and became well known as a late night drinking club popular with customers associated with the music industry, ranging from roadies through to The Beatles.
Laurie O’Leary (lifelong friend of the Krays) was the manager in its heyday. He died on 27th April 2005.
Click here for an article about The Speakeasy from NME in 1967 (some great ads too). Click on the image to get it larger and more readable.
There's also the UFO Club which was at 31 Tottenham Court Road, London W1. Open from 23rd December 1966 to July 1967 and with a capacity of 600.
London’s first psychedelic club when the Blarney Club was hired on Friday nights by John Hopkins and Joe Boyd. Pink Floyd, Soft Machine and Arthur Brown were regulars. Because of police pressure the lease was revoked, and the club moved to the Roundhouse where it lasted only a few months - until October 1967.
THEN: On the ground level there was a cinema (opened in 1913 as the Carlton, and the Berkeley when it closed in 1976). Below the cinema there was a space for dance music. Between January 1928 and December 1938 it was known as the Carlton Dance Hall. Before and after this period it was the Rectors Club .The Original Dixieland Jazz Band played here in 1919. From June 1940 it had another name - the Stork Club. By the 1960s it had become an Irish dancehall - the Blarney Club. The entrance to UFO was through the door below the 'Blarney' sign....

NOW: This part of Tottenham Court Road was demolished in the 1980s for the Central Cross development of retail (mainly hi-fi shops) and offices. This was recently sold to Derwent London. There is an Odeon Cinema in the block, but this is north of where the Berkeley stood.
Here's Pink Floyd playing at the original UFO club. Interesting to note John Cleese dancing to the band (at 0:25).

The venue opened in 1966, and became well known as a late night drinking club popular with customers associated with the music industry, ranging from roadies through to The Beatles.
Laurie O’Leary (lifelong friend of the Krays) was the manager in its heyday. He died on 27th April 2005.
Click here for an article about The Speakeasy from NME in 1967 (some great ads too). Click on the image to get it larger and more readable.
There's also the UFO Club which was at 31 Tottenham Court Road, London W1. Open from 23rd December 1966 to July 1967 and with a capacity of 600.
London’s first psychedelic club when the Blarney Club was hired on Friday nights by John Hopkins and Joe Boyd. Pink Floyd, Soft Machine and Arthur Brown were regulars. Because of police pressure the lease was revoked, and the club moved to the Roundhouse where it lasted only a few months - until October 1967.
THEN: On the ground level there was a cinema (opened in 1913 as the Carlton, and the Berkeley when it closed in 1976). Below the cinema there was a space for dance music. Between January 1928 and December 1938 it was known as the Carlton Dance Hall. Before and after this period it was the Rectors Club .The Original Dixieland Jazz Band played here in 1919. From June 1940 it had another name - the Stork Club. By the 1960s it had become an Irish dancehall - the Blarney Club. The entrance to UFO was through the door below the 'Blarney' sign....

NOW: This part of Tottenham Court Road was demolished in the 1980s for the Central Cross development of retail (mainly hi-fi shops) and offices. This was recently sold to Derwent London. There is an Odeon Cinema in the block, but this is north of where the Berkeley stood.
Here's Pink Floyd playing at the original UFO club. Interesting to note John Cleese dancing to the band (at 0:25).
The nigeyb walking and drinking tour of Fitzrovia took place on Saturday 19 October 2013.

Illumination and inebriation were the twin aims, whilst evoking some of the spirit of Patrick Hamilton and Julian Maclaren-Ross, and sharing some personal history about this wonderful London neighbourhood.

Fitzrovia is an interesting corner of London. It's the area north of Oxford Street; west of Tottenham Court Road; south of Euston Road; and east of Great Portland Street. Fitzrovia, with its pubs and cafes, has always represented a fringe and marginal space within London. It is the drinking culture rather than any discernible aesthetic, political ethic or philosophy that attracted people. It's also home to some great architecture, history and even better pubs.
The area played host to literary greats such as Patrick Hamilton, Julian Maclaren-Ross, Charles Dickens, George Orwell, Quentin Crisp, George Bernard Shaw, Virgina Woolf, Dylan Thomas etc. In addition to the literary titans, other people who lived locally and frequented the local pubs (such as the Fitzroy Tavern and The Wheatsheaf) include Nancy Cunard, Walter Sickert, the Sitwells, Betty May, Graham Greene, Albert Pierrepoint, Tambimuttu, Aleister Crowley, Nina Hamnett, Percy Wyndham Lewis, James Meary, Augustus John, the bookie Prince Monolulu, Arthur Rimbaud, Boy George, John Constable, Whistler, and Paul Verlaine. Some roll call eh?

Previously known as North Soho, the area became known as Fitzrovia in 1940 when the William Hickey gossip column, in the Daily Express, described the Bohemian set that hung out at The Fitzroy Tavern pub as "Fitzrovians". Fitzrovia soon became used to describe the whole area. As an aside, in the early 21st century, property developers Candy & Candy tried to rebrand the area as "Noho" via a proposed development on the site of the old Middlesex Hospital although, finally, lack of funds meant it never happened and that appears to have put paid to the new name.

Click here to see the photos I took.
Here's just a few examples of where Fitzrovia features in literature and popular culture...

My favourite writer, Patrick Hamilton, published a book in 1929 called "The Midnight Bell". The title comes from the pub which is the book’s focal point. Hamilton's hours of sitting, drinking and observing London pub life all contribute to magic of this superb novel. One of the novel's best scenes takes place in a prostitute's flat in Fitzrovia. Patrick Hamilton knew this area well. The interior of the Midnight Bell has a physical resemblance to that of the Fitzroy Tavern (more than any other pub in the area). The Wheatsheaf also offers a close match and Hamilton's description of the publican at the Midnight Bell is likely based on the short, plump spinster Mona Glendenning, and Redvers, her similarly rotund brother, and his wife Frances.

X Trapnel, the libertine author in Anthony Powell's "A Dance To The Music Of Time" is based on the impecunious and thirsty bohemian writer Julian Maclaren-Ross, even down to the sunglasses and walking stick. Maclaren-Ross was most relentless of the Fitzrovian monologists, and - for me - is the ultimate Fitzrovian.
Jah Wobble and Bill Sharpe released a jazz album in 2013 called "Kingdom of Fitzrovia" that pays tribute to the area's artistic past (not usually my sort of thang but, well it's referencing Fitzrovia so I gave it a chance and, y'know what, it's the acceptable face of jazz funk and, call it auto suggestion if you will, but it does have a bit of a Fitzrovian vibe).
The Newman Arms on Rathbone Street, appears in Orwell's novels "Nineteen Eighty Four" (as The Proles Pub) and "Keep the Aspidistra Flying".
The UFO Club was situated in the basement of 31 Tottenham Court Road where Pink Floyd were regular performers.
Bob Dylan played his first London show at the King & Queen pub on Foley Street.

Illumination and inebriation were the twin aims, whilst evoking some of the spirit of Patrick Hamilton and Julian Maclaren-Ross, and sharing some personal history about this wonderful London neighbourhood.

Fitzrovia is an interesting corner of London. It's the area north of Oxford Street; west of Tottenham Court Road; south of Euston Road; and east of Great Portland Street. Fitzrovia, with its pubs and cafes, has always represented a fringe and marginal space within London. It is the drinking culture rather than any discernible aesthetic, political ethic or philosophy that attracted people. It's also home to some great architecture, history and even better pubs.
The area played host to literary greats such as Patrick Hamilton, Julian Maclaren-Ross, Charles Dickens, George Orwell, Quentin Crisp, George Bernard Shaw, Virgina Woolf, Dylan Thomas etc. In addition to the literary titans, other people who lived locally and frequented the local pubs (such as the Fitzroy Tavern and The Wheatsheaf) include Nancy Cunard, Walter Sickert, the Sitwells, Betty May, Graham Greene, Albert Pierrepoint, Tambimuttu, Aleister Crowley, Nina Hamnett, Percy Wyndham Lewis, James Meary, Augustus John, the bookie Prince Monolulu, Arthur Rimbaud, Boy George, John Constable, Whistler, and Paul Verlaine. Some roll call eh?

Previously known as North Soho, the area became known as Fitzrovia in 1940 when the William Hickey gossip column, in the Daily Express, described the Bohemian set that hung out at The Fitzroy Tavern pub as "Fitzrovians". Fitzrovia soon became used to describe the whole area. As an aside, in the early 21st century, property developers Candy & Candy tried to rebrand the area as "Noho" via a proposed development on the site of the old Middlesex Hospital although, finally, lack of funds meant it never happened and that appears to have put paid to the new name.

Click here to see the photos I took.
Here's just a few examples of where Fitzrovia features in literature and popular culture...

My favourite writer, Patrick Hamilton, published a book in 1929 called "The Midnight Bell". The title comes from the pub which is the book’s focal point. Hamilton's hours of sitting, drinking and observing London pub life all contribute to magic of this superb novel. One of the novel's best scenes takes place in a prostitute's flat in Fitzrovia. Patrick Hamilton knew this area well. The interior of the Midnight Bell has a physical resemblance to that of the Fitzroy Tavern (more than any other pub in the area). The Wheatsheaf also offers a close match and Hamilton's description of the publican at the Midnight Bell is likely based on the short, plump spinster Mona Glendenning, and Redvers, her similarly rotund brother, and his wife Frances.

X Trapnel, the libertine author in Anthony Powell's "A Dance To The Music Of Time" is based on the impecunious and thirsty bohemian writer Julian Maclaren-Ross, even down to the sunglasses and walking stick. Maclaren-Ross was most relentless of the Fitzrovian monologists, and - for me - is the ultimate Fitzrovian.
Jah Wobble and Bill Sharpe released a jazz album in 2013 called "Kingdom of Fitzrovia" that pays tribute to the area's artistic past (not usually my sort of thang but, well it's referencing Fitzrovia so I gave it a chance and, y'know what, it's the acceptable face of jazz funk and, call it auto suggestion if you will, but it does have a bit of a Fitzrovian vibe).
The Newman Arms on Rathbone Street, appears in Orwell's novels "Nineteen Eighty Four" (as The Proles Pub) and "Keep the Aspidistra Flying".
The UFO Club was situated in the basement of 31 Tottenham Court Road where Pink Floyd were regular performers.
Bob Dylan played his first London show at the King & Queen pub on Foley Street.
It was not as debauched as it may appear Lobstergirl. Plenty of halves not pints, and lunch and dinner too, so whilst mild inebriation was clearly evident it was no more than that.
By the way this is the exact spot where Julian Maclaren-Ross held court for so many years...

One of the great services Julian Maclaren-Ross renders in his best-known book, Memoirs of the Forties, is to grant life to occupants of his world beyond the numerous noted writers and artists of his acquaintance. So along with Dylan Thomas, Cyril Connolly and Graham Greene, he lends forgotten characters a substance and complexity which elevate them from bit-player status. His sense of colour, back story and telling details are all illustrated in this excerpt, in which describes one of his fellow regulars at the The Wheatsheaf:
The Wheatsheaf - outside view...

Julian Maclaren-Ross and Mrs Stewart's spot in The Wheatsheaf...
By the way this is the exact spot where Julian Maclaren-Ross held court for so many years...

One of the great services Julian Maclaren-Ross renders in his best-known book, Memoirs of the Forties, is to grant life to occupants of his world beyond the numerous noted writers and artists of his acquaintance. So along with Dylan Thomas, Cyril Connolly and Graham Greene, he lends forgotten characters a substance and complexity which elevate them from bit-player status. His sense of colour, back story and telling details are all illustrated in this excerpt, in which describes one of his fellow regulars at the The Wheatsheaf:
Curtain-up on the evening was signalled by the arrival on the dot of six of Mrs Stewart, who lived on her old-age pension in one of the tenements at the foot of the alley and was collected by her married daughter towards closing time or when the pub became too noisy. Mrs Stewart was a very small elderly lady dressed in black silk with yellow-white hair and she arrived always carrying two evening papers in which to do the crossword and an alarm-clock to time herself by. She always drank bottled Guinness and having assembled her alarm clock, evening papers, spectacle case, purse, and other properties on the table, sat in front of them on a leather-covered bench which ran along the right-hand wall by the corner of the bar.
It was in this corner, propped up against the wooden partition of the seat, that I stood for many years (though not, as has been said, underneath my own tartan), having displaced from this strategic position a Central European sports writer on a daily picture paper by the simple expedient of arriving each evening earlier than he was able to.
The sports writer was furious and hated me virulently because of this, since for years before my arrival on the scene he’d been able to lean there, wearing a brown porkpie hat and camel hair coat of inferior quality, speaking to few but hoping always that tourists would say: ‘Who is that interesting-looking foreign man over there?’ as he struck a Napoleonic pose and stared superciliously ahead with his pouched eyes through the smoke of a nonchalantly puffed-at cigarette.
Having permanently dislodged him however (for if prevented by business from getting there in time, I would have someone else to hold the corner), it became my duty in turn to keep Mrs Stewart’s place, to pass over the Guinness in exchange for the exact money produced from her purse, and to see that well-intentioned idiots did not try to help her with the crosswords, a thing she hated above all. Great care had to be exercised in offering her a drink, it could only be done by split-second timing when her nightly ration was running low, but she was very proud and from certain people who plonked down heartily before her an open bottle, with the words ‘Have that one on me Ma,’ she would not accept anything at all.
She was spiky and occasionally irascible. Happily she approved of me, but Dylan Thomas and the poetess Anna Wickham she could not stand at any price. Red and Frances shared, originally, her dislike of Dylan, Mona to a lesser extent (luckily, or he wouldn’t have been allowed in), but later when he had begun to broadcast they chanced to hear him on the radio and from then on nothing was too good. Mrs Stewart either didn’t own a set or was perhaps too deaf, for her opinion of Dylan always remained unchanged, despite the attempts of Red and Frances to win her over to what was now their side.
And yet she was no stranger to people of this sort. In Paris as a young woman she lived in Montparnasse where she’d known Pascin, Hemingway and Joyce, also Dennis Corrigan who’d once been my uncle’s partner on the Côte and later hanged himself with his necktie in a prison cell awaiting trial (a paperback thriller called Hangman’s Tie was found lying below the bench from which he’d kicked off).
Corrigan Mrs Stewart had mainly met on the racecourse, but her encounters with the painters and writers had been in the Paris cafés and her stories about them always ended with her saying: ‘And there they were my dear, staggering about just like you and the rest of the young fellows are doing today.’
She was unlike the other old ladies in that she never spoke of the past from a personal angle, so nobody was told what she herself had been doing in Paris at this period. Nina Hamnett, who was better at painting old people than she was with the young, did a superb portrait of her, which for some time after she died hung above the spot where for so long she’d sat, though I don’t know what happened to it in the end.
The death of Mrs Stewart – in the late Forties or early Fifties – marked, as writers of memoirs are fond of saying, the passing of an epoch, and it might have pleased her to know that she’d become a symbolic figure to a whole new generation now no longer young: for there are few former Wheatsheaf habitués whose eyes fail to light up in memory of her name.
The Wheatsheaf - outside view...

Julian Maclaren-Ross and Mrs Stewart's spot in The Wheatsheaf...
Books mentioned in this topic
Memoirs of the Forties (other topics)The Midnight Bell (other topics)
Authors mentioned in this topic
Julian Maclaren-Ross (other topics)Patrick Hamilton (other topics)
Julian Maclaren-Ross (other topics)
Paul Willetts (other topics)




I thought it was better to set up a new thread for this little venture that I hope might be of interest to a few of my fellow members of The Patrick Hamilton Appreciation Society .
In the course of my preliminary research I came across this web page which seeks to identify The Midnight Bell
Here's some more from the same source...
It's all worth a read if you love this stuff as much as we here at The Patrick Hamilton Appreciation Society. I'll take a few photos and make a few notes to record our day in Fitzrovia and publish anything of interest.