Matt Lee > Quotes

“Those first weeks in the prep kitchen I peeled dozens of cases of carrots, chopped quart upon quart of chives, and I came eventually to appreciate something in the rhythm of an endless, repetitive task, one that turns you so inward you forget anyone’s there, and snap back to reality only when the timer on the oven buzzes—so loud the sound seems to lodge itself between the back of your neck and your throat.”
― Matt Lee, Hotbox: Inside Catering, the Food World's Riskiest Business

“Food allergies are no joking matter. We have a friend who left a Paris restaurant on a gurney because a waiter took it upon himself to interpret her stated Capsicum annuum (bell peppers) allergy as merely an intolerance. Another friend is fatally allergic to Arachis hypogaea (peanuts). Serious allergy sufferers carry epinephrine pens that can inhibit some allergic reactions. They never take risks, because the appearance of EMTs—emergency medical technicians—and a stretcher kills the vibe of any celebration. And any veteran chef who’s seen a severe allergy attack unfold at a party will work in good faith to make damn sure it never happens again. But more and more Americans dress up mild intolerances and preferences for food in allergy drag, perhaps to absolve themselves of the rudeness of expecting to be served a customized plate. Chefs and waiters share stories of such behavior constantly: guests who are “allergic” to dairy until the chocolate pudding comes out for dessert. The “celiac” who needs his first course and second course gluten-free and then asks for a second slice of cake. “It’s every party now,” Robb Garceau, now executive chef at Neuman’s Kitchen, told us. “Guest says: ‘I need a vegan first course!’ So we build a special salad just for her. And then we send her a vegan main. But she’s seen somebody else’s salmon. Captain tells me: ‘She wants the fish course.’ And I’m like: ‘What?! You were vegan half an hour ago!”
― Matt Lee, Hotbox: Inside Catering, the Food World's Riskiest Business