Steve House > Quotes

“You can’t coach desire, and no matter how fancy your training plan or how high your stated goals are, it comes down to getting out the door and doing the work day after day.”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“The depth of any story is proportionate to the protagonist's commitment to their goal, the complexity of the problem, and the grace of the solution.”
― Steve House, Beyond the Mountain

“You have to be honest with yourself that in the end no one really cares—you do it for yourself. Everyone must decide for him or herself how much risk he or she wants to take. Risk is not measurable and is always dependent on the individual. You need to know that it is impossible to indefinitely push your limits: higher, faster, better. Eventually you reach a peak and then it goes back down. I believe it’s important that you don’t lose your passion and that you enjoy the outdoors and challenging yourself, no matter what your level is.”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“My approach to training echoed how I climbed. The romance of climbing didn’t interest me. I didn’t seek harps and wings. I heard no opera up there. Instead, my mountains had teeth. The jagged edge we walked up there dragged itself across my throat, and the throats of my friends and peers. I took the mountains’ indifference to life as aggression, and fought back. I armored myself against that indifference; with training, with thinking, with attitude. I trained with friends who shared a similar approach. Our mantra was dark, but it motivated us. When we ran we breathed in rhythm—no matter the speed—and that beat had words: “They all died.” We inhaled and exhaled the great alpine epics—like the tragedy that befell Walter Bonatti’s party on the Freney Pillar—to push ourselves to a place where we would never come up short, physically. The consequences of falling short made training important. I realized early that controlling the things that I could control gave me greater freedom to address the things that I could not control. And the mountains offered those in spades.”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“Strength is largely a neurologic quality while endurance is largely a metabolic quality. Restating this: Strength depends on the brain’s ability to recruit the greatest number of muscle fibers for a task. Endurance depends on the rate of metabolic turnover of ATP molecules. We use the modifier largely above because these two qualities overlap and are interdependent in endurance sports.”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“There’s a time to run and a time to walk. But don’t get me wrong: I’m not telling anyone to slow down. I’ve long viewed with suspicion the armchair directives barked at the young and driven, usually with the faux self-assuredness of someone who’s never been there, about how they shouldn’t push so hard, how they should go easy. I find beauty in charging into the unknown, armed with little more than a sharpened stick and unwavering self-belief. Beauty in dropping the excuses and trying, in making things happen rather than waiting for some imaginary time when you’re good enough, wise enough, have a job that pays enough—a time that will”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“Athletes who overuse high-intensity training methods will usually have a low AeT because their aerobic metabolism has become detrained while the anaerobic metabolic pathway has become very powerful.”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“When you are training, you are not just training your body, but you are also, maybe even primarily, training your mind.”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“A good rule of thumb is that if you have more than two Cs in a row, or a C and D within one week, you need to stop and assess what is going on.”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“Fig.”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“Typical Progression for Hill Sprints We have noticed that athletes who are unaccustomed to such high power training have difficulty even getting tired in the early weeks of doing this workout. That is because they move slowly due to their inability to engage enough of the fast twitch fibers needed to produce truly powerful movements. For”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“legged exercises like box step-ups, which will pay huge dividends in how your legs will feel churning uphill for hour after hour.”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“The simpler we make things, the richer the experiences become.” But only if we remain active, only if we try, only if we risk – and especially when we fail. Failure is a part of learning. Through our failures we learn the most. “Action is the message.” – Reinhold Messner”
― Steve House, Beyond the Mountain

“In the majority of endurance-trained athletes, the AeT corresponds to the point where the blood lactate concentration has risen modestly (1mMol/L) above a baseline reading to a value of about 2mMol/L.”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“Hill Sprint Training To execute this workout outdoors, first you need to find a steep hill with decent footing so you are not dodging roots and rocks and can sprint flat-out. The steeper, the better for our purposes. It should be at least 10 percent or a one-in-ten slope with 20–50 percent (two- to five-in-ten slope) being even better. A steep stadium can provide the needed steepness. If your movements are slow and cautious due to poor footing, you will not get the desired effect. The steep hill allows those who can’t run fast to impose very high loads on their legs and”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“Talent can make you lazy. Innovation will be left to the hardest workers, training intelligently.”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

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― Steve House

“sets of one up to a maximum of four repetitions. ​Use four to six sets of each exercise per session. ​Allow three to five minutes of rest between sets. ​Do not go to muscular failure on any set. That will cause you to gain muscle mass. ​Do this twice a week.”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“movements done, and at a similar speed and intensity of climbing. To a very large extent, elite-level swimmers principally swim for training, champion cyclists ride, top runners run, and world-class skiers ski. A general sport like alpinism can include more nonspecific modalities than these traditional sports, especially in the early base-building period and for less athletically mature individuals. But the biggest benefits will come from preparing for and modeling the demands of alpine climbing as closely as possible. This is the reason top climbers spend so much time climbing. As an alpinist seeking to improve your endurance”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“The book The Roll Model by Jill Miller is a masterpiece on how to use the ball-rolling techniques to speed recovery and treat chronic musculoskeletal problems”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“​Capacity Training: Training that improves the long-term performance potential of the athlete. Capacity Training is commonly prioritized during the Base Period. This training acts to improve the fundamental qualities needed to support participation in the event itself and Utilization Training. As such, it is often not sport specific. ​Utilization Training: Training that improves the near-term performance results of the athlete. Utilization Training is commonly prioritized during the build-up to the competition period or the targeted event. This training models the specific demands of the event an athlete is training for.”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“AeT (top of Z2) and the LT (top of Z3). This gives the broad separation of the aerobic zones (Z1 and Z2) for easy to moderate training from the anaerobic zones (Z4 and Z5) where training is very hard and of shorter duration. This leaves Z3 in the middle as hard training.”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“greater fitness leads to more opportunity. This holds true for knowledge as well. When we acquire new skills, when we develop ourselves as human beings, we uncover new potential.”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“You will never maximize your endurance potential without first maximizing your basic aerobic capacity (AeT).”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“Eventually the lactate removal rate can’t keep pace with the lactate production rate. This point is normally referred to as the LT. It represents the maximum intensity at which lactate levels will remain elevated but stable for up to an hour at a time. Above this intensity, lactate levels climb quickly and the athlete will eventually be forced to slow down.”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“where we increase the available pool of muscle fibers for the brain to choose from. Increasing Max Strength lays the groundwork for the conversion to Muscular Endurance. Following these prescriptions will produce large gains in strength, with no gains in body weight (often you will lose weight due to the resulting boost to your metabolism).”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“An alpinist, I already know, is a climber of mountains by difficult routes, by technical routes: real climbing to summits like this one. The ice hammer itself is a key to the world of legends that I’ve dreamed of in my fading boyhood: the world of climbers like Reinhold Messner, Hermann Buhl, Riccardo Cassin, Walter Bonatti, and Yvon Chouinard.”
― Steve House, Beyond the Mountain

“The new alpinism comes full circle as small teams of fit, trained athletes emulate Mummery, aspire to Preuss, climb like the young Messner. Because those pioneers knew that alpinism—indeed all mindful pursuits—is at its most simple level the sum of your daily choices and daily practices. Progress is entirely personal. The spirit of climbing does not lie in outcomes—lists, times, your conquests. You do keep those; you will always know which mountains you have climbed, which you have not. What you can climb is a manifestation of the current, temporary, state of your whole self. You can’t fake a sub-four-minute mile just as you can’t pretend to do an asana.”
― Steve House, Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

“The best way to decide how much emphasis you still need to place on basic aerobic fitness versus adding more high-intensity endurance training is to refer back to the Ten Percent Test (see page 91). If the difference between your AeT and LT (in terms of heart rate) is 10 percent or less, you should include up to two weekly high-intensity aerobic endurance sessions in your Base Period. If your AeT-to-LT spread is greater than 10 percent, delay the introduction of Zone 3 workouts and limit the higher-intensity workouts to no more than once a week.”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers

“While genetic gifts play the dominant role in preselecting who is going to be good at power and speed sports, perseverance and the ability to suffer are the hallmarks of the successful endurance athlete. No wonder endurance sports appeal to the type A personalities for whom more equates to better. A question we often get is, “Just how much is enough?” That is an impossible one to answer. What might not even count as much of a warm-up for Kílian, something he would do before breakfast on a recovery day, might overload others. It all depends on your capacity for this type of work.”
― Steve House, Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers