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“In a moment I might be under the wave swallowing seawater and small jellyfish, but right now I am an ancient princess of Hawaii, I am a bikini model, I am a goddess before the crest of a monster billow.”
― Wilma Johnson, Surf Mama - One Woman's Search for Love, Happiness and the Perfect Wave

tags: surf, surfing, waves, women-surfers

4 likes

“Out of the kitchen, and into the surf.”
― Wilma Johnson, Surf Mama - One Woman's Search for Love, Happiness and the Perfect Wave

tags: surf, surfing, women, women-s-strength

1 likes

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