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Steve Sorensen
More books by Steve Sorensen…
“Surfing is always a sport of waiting. We wait for the right season, we wait for the right swell, we wait for the right tide, we wait for first light, we wait for the night wind to cease, and then we wait for the right wave. All this waiting for just a few seconds of the most dazzling beauty a human can ever know. So”
― Heap of Bones: A Baja Surfer's Chronicle
― Heap of Bones: A Baja Surfer's Chronicle
“Back on the beach, I went through the ritual a tropical surfer should perform to avoid the ailments and irritations that come with surfing in warm water: drink as much fresh water as soon as possible to ward off dehydration; remove wet trunks immediately; dry all body parts and apply Desitin to the crotch and armpits to avoid rash; irrigate the ears with a vinegar-and-alcohol solution to prevent swimmer’s ear; and smear any open cuts with antibiotic ointment to guard against staph infection. Warm water produces more bacteria than cold water, and to all those little microscopic beasties, human flesh is a luscious treat.”
― Heap of Bones: A Baja Surfer's Chronicle
― Heap of Bones: A Baja Surfer's Chronicle
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