Surfing


Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Malibu Rising
Breath
The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast
Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman
Tapping the Source
Dude!
The History of Surfing
Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey – The 11-Time World Champion's Inspiring Memoir of Big Wave Mastery and Triumph Over Adversity
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
My Dirty California by Jason MosbergBarbarian Days by William FinneganThe World in the Curl by Peter WestwickThe Wave by Susan CaseySoul Surfer by Bethany Hamilton
Surf
16 books — 7 voters

Daniel Thorman
Firstly, in lunar gravity, the avalanche progressed much more slowly than such an event would on earth. Secondly, moonrakers were bottom-heavy beasts. It would take quite a lot to flip one over. So he held his breath as he surfed the wave. Who was the big kahuna now?
Daniel Thorman, The Zodiac Quest: A LitRPG Adventure

Sol Luckman
Becoming one with the wave is about as authentic and personally harmonizing an experience as you can get in these phony days of Auto-Tune.
Sol Luckman, Musings from a Small Island: Everything under the Sun

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