Surfing


Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Malibu Rising
The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
Breath
In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast
Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman
Tapping the Source
Dude!
Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey
The History of Surfing
The Dawn Patrol (Boone Daniels #1)
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
Jaimal Yogis
Surfing is kind of a good metaphor for the rest of life. The extremely good stuff - chocolate and great sex and weddings and hilarious jokes - fills a minute portion of an adult lifespan. The rest of life is the paddling: work, paying bills, flossing, getting sick, dying.
Jaimal Yogis, Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea

David Litt
As someone who prefers his internal organs to remain on the inside, however, I found it harder to toe the party line. The odds of being bitten by a shark are almost zero. But for a few unlucky people, the crucial part of that sentence is "almost." In much the way my grandfather once ate several salmon-flavored dog biscuits thinking they were gourmet crackers, sharks occasionally--but very memorably--confuse people for seals. Surfers, with seal-shaped boards and dark wetsuits, are particularly su ...more
David Litt, It's Only Drowning: A True Story of Learning to Surf and the Search for Common Ground

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