Surfing


Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Malibu Rising
The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
Breath
In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast
Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman
Tapping the Source
Dude!
Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey
The History of Surfing
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
Jack Freestone
I enjoy watching the World Surf League coverage. But perhaps it should be more accurately named the Freemason Surf League. It is certainly a good way to observe an exhibition of Freemason hand signals by the live presenters.
Jack Freestone

Taylor Jenkins Reid
The first wave in a gorgeous set came in and Jay was primed for it. He got himself into position and popped up on his board, and then out of nowhere, Kit dropped in, cut him off, and stole his wave.
Taylor Jenkins Reid, Malibu Rising

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