Surfing


Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Malibu Rising
The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
Breath
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast
Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman
Tapping the Source
Dude!
The History of Surfing
Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey – The 11-Time World Champion's Inspiring Memoir of Big Wave Mastery and Triumph Over Adversity
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board
Sophie Kinsella
I don’t know when cooking became so daunting. It kind of crept up on me. Just the thought overwhelms me. How do people do that every night?
Sophie Kinsella, The Burnout

Jaimal Yogis
Surfing is kind of a good metaphor for the rest of life. The extremely good stuff - chocolate and great sex and weddings and hilarious jokes - fills a minute portion of an adult lifespan. The rest of life is the paddling: work, paying bills, flossing, getting sick, dying.
Jaimal Yogis, Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea

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