31 books
—
5 voters
Surfing
“
Surfing is kind of a good metaphor for the rest of life.
The extremely good stuff - chocolate and great sex and weddings and hilarious jokes - fills a minute portion of an adult lifespan.
The rest of life is the paddling: work, paying bills, flossing, getting sick, dying.
”
― Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
― Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
“
As someone who prefers his internal organs to remain on the inside, however, I found it harder to toe the party line. The odds of being bitten by a shark are almost zero. But for a few unlucky people, the crucial part of that sentence is "almost." In much the way my grandfather once ate several salmon-flavored dog biscuits thinking they were gourmet crackers, sharks occasionally--but very memorably--confuse people for seals. Surfers, with seal-shaped boards and dark wetsuits, are particularly su
...more
”
― It's Only Drowning: A True Story of Learning to Surf and the Search for Common Ground
― It's Only Drowning: A True Story of Learning to Surf and the Search for Common Ground
A group for anyone who is a fan of Soul Surfer and Bethany Hamilton!!(:
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Living in Oahu, Hawaii is basically living in paradise. You got…more
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All things surf. Waves, rides, boards, travel, surf technique, surf fitness, injury prevention, …more
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