“The particulars of new places grabbed me and held me, the sweep of new coasts, cold, lovely, dawns. The world was incomprehensibly large, and there was still so much to see. Yes, I got sick sometimes of being an expatriate, always ignorant, on the outside of things, but I didn't feel ready for domestic life, for seeing the same people, the same places, thinking more or less the same thoughts, each day. I liked surrendering to the onrush, the uncertainty, the serendipity of the road.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“Being adjacent to that much beauty—more than adjacent; immersed in, pierced by it—was the point. The physical risks were footnotes.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“The brighter the light, the deeper the shadow.”
― Nevernight
― Nevernight
“the very thought of you
has my legs spread apart
like an easel with a canvas
begging for art”
― Milk and honey
has my legs spread apart
like an easel with a canvas
begging for art”
― Milk and honey
J’s 2025 Year in Books
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