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“It was, once again, a glorious wave, with hues in its depths so intense they felt like first editions—ocean colors never seen before, made solely for this wave, this moment, perhaps never to be seen again.”
William Finnegan, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

“I did not consider, even passingly, that I had a choice when it came to surfing. My enchantment would take me where it would.”
William Finnegan, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Fyodor Dostoevsky
“in despair there are the most intense enjoyments, especially when one is very acutely conscious of the hopelessness of one's position.”
Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Notes from the Underground

Rupi Kaur
“the very thought of you
has my legs spread apart
like an easel with a canvas
begging for art”
Rupi Kaur, Milk and honey
tags: love

“Being adjacent to that much beauty—more than adjacent; immersed in, pierced by it—was the point. The physical risks were footnotes.”
William Finnegan, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

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