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“I did not consider, even passingly, that I had a choice when it came to surfing. My enchantment would take me where it would.”
― William Finnegan, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

“in despair there are the most intense enjoyments, especially when one is very acutely conscious of the hopelessness of one's position.”
― Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Notes from the Underground

“It was, once again, a glorious wave, with hues in its depths so intense they felt like first editions—ocean colors never seen before, made solely for this wave, this moment, perhaps never to be seen again.”
― William Finnegan, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

“The brighter the light, the deeper the shadow.”
― Jay Kristoff, Nevernight