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“I did not consider, even passingly, that I had a choice when it came to surfing. My enchantment would take me where it would.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“I appear to have misplaced the fucks I give for what you think.”
― Nevernight
― Nevernight
“It was, once again, a glorious wave, with hues in its depths so intense they felt like first editions—ocean colors never seen before, made solely for this wave, this moment, perhaps never to be seen again.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“Being adjacent to that much beauty—more than adjacent; immersed in, pierced by it—was the point. The physical risks were footnotes.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“The particulars of new places grabbed me and held me, the sweep of new coasts, cold, lovely, dawns. The world was incomprehensibly large, and there was still so much to see. Yes, I got sick sometimes of being an expatriate, always ignorant, on the outside of things, but I didn't feel ready for domestic life, for seeing the same people, the same places, thinking more or less the same thoughts, each day. I liked surrendering to the onrush, the uncertainty, the serendipity of the road.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
J’s 2025 Year in Books
Take a look at J’s Year in Books, including some fun facts about their reading.
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