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“It was, once again, a glorious wave, with hues in its depths so intense they felt like first editions—ocean colors never seen before, made solely for this wave, this moment, perhaps never to be seen again.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“I did not consider, even passingly, that I had a choice when it came to surfing. My enchantment would take me where it would.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“in despair there are the most intense enjoyments, especially when one is very acutely conscious of the hopelessness of one's position.”
― Notes from the Underground
― Notes from the Underground
“the very thought of you
has my legs spread apart
like an easel with a canvas
begging for art”
― Milk and honey
has my legs spread apart
like an easel with a canvas
begging for art”
― Milk and honey
“Being adjacent to that much beauty—more than adjacent; immersed in, pierced by it—was the point. The physical risks were footnotes.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
J’s 2025 Year in Books
Take a look at J’s Year in Books, including some fun facts about their reading.
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