So far so good. Really enjoying the adventure and story about how life was back in the 1960s and 1970s. Seemingly simpler times but the author did not have an easy upbringing. Counter culture of the 60s and 70s was alive and well in his life. Through it all he continued to come back to surfing which was not only his escape from life on land, but also a lifelong passion. Excited for the rest of this journey!
— Dec 02, 2025 07:14AM
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