Cheralyn Darcey's Blog

This Post will be updated daily - It���s your companion to my talkback shows.
Been part of one of our talkback chats with me on 2HD Newcastle & 2SM Super Radio Network lately?
Or just curious where all those stories, ideas, and links end up?


This Blog is where the conversations continue ��� a place to find the extras we talk about on air, follow up on the topics that got us thinking, and explore a few treasures we didn���t get time to share.


 


Let me know what you think ��� and if there���s something you want to see featured, drop me a message!


Tune in live or stream via
- to find your local station: https://srnradio.com.au/  or stream from anywhere - https://2sm.com.au





BLUETOOTH CONNECTION TIPS

Caller Mandy had issues with her booth tooth car connection on my show on 2HD Newcastle & 2SM Super Radio Network 
so here's a few tips for everyone - BLUE TOOTH TIPS
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UFO TV SERIES

The SBS UFO series caller Helen on my show on
2HD Newcastle & 2SM Super Radio Network was talking about this morning -
https://www.sbs.com.au/.../ufos-investigating-the-unknown

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LOOKING FOR LOCAL ELECTION RESULTS?
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We are talking about the 2025 Election Results on
2HD Newcastle & 2SM Super Radio Network
Find them at this Government Site: AEC Tallyroom



SCIENCE FICTION CLASSIC 
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I absolutely adore the places you all take me to each night on the air! From big community issues that matter��� to fluffy unicorns and cupcakes ��� and everything in between.


Last night on 2HD Newcastle & 2SM Super Radio Network, the conversation turned to science fiction authors. Caller Steven reminded me of a true classic: 'The Last Question' by one of my all-time favourites, Isaac Asimov. (Thanks Steve!)


As promised, here���s the link to the story if you���d like to take a little trip into the stars (and deep into the future):
(https://users.ece.cmu.edu/~gamvrosi/thelastq.html)


Let me know what you think ��� it���s one of those stories that stays with you.


#TalkbackRadio #IsaacAsimov #SciFiFavorites #TheLastQuestion

 


A GLIMPSE INTO AUSTRALIA'S BOTANICAL HERITAGE
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THIS IS THE BOOK we were talking about on 2HD Newcastle & 2SM Super Radio Network last night -
 


I adore my copy of Joseph Banks' Florilegium, a stunning collection of botanical illustrations from the 18th century.


For those unfamiliar, Sir Joseph Banks was a British naturalist who accompanied Captain James Cook on his first voyage to the Pacific from 1768 to 1771. During this journey, Banks and his team collected and documented over 1,300 plant species, many of which were previously unknown to Europeans. These specimens were later transformed into detailed copperplate engravings, collectively known as the Florilegium.


What's remarkable is that these illustrations were not published in full color until centuries later. Now, thanks to modern efforts, we can appreciate these botanical treasures in all their glory.


If you're interested in exploring this rich tapestry of botanical art and history, I highly recommend the book Joseph Banks' Florilegium: Botanical Treasures from Cook's First Voyage. It's a beautifully curated volume that brings these illustrations to life, complete with insightful commentary.


Other than your local library, you can find the book here: Dymocks Books https://www.dymocks.com.au/joseph-banks-florilegium-by...


Dive into the pages and embark on a botanical journey through time!
Newcastle Libraries
#JosephBanks #Florilegium #BotanicalArt #AustralianHistory #CaptainCookVoyage

A Slice of History: The Fruit Cake That Marched with Australian Soldiers

When we think of the things our Australian military took into battle, we often imagine rugged gear, letters from home, maybe even a photo tucked into a breast pocket. But one item that holds a particularly sweet place in our military history is the humble fruit cake.

Yes, fruit cake ��� rich, dense, and long-lasting ��� was once a treasured treat for diggers on the front lines. It wasn���t just about the taste; it was about comfort, memory, and a connection to home that could survive even the harshest of trenches.

Why Fruit Cake?

During World War I and World War II, food had to travel long distances and withstand months at sea. That meant anything perishable was out of the question. Fruit cake, with its preserved dried fruits and alcohol-soaked sponge, ticked all the boxes. It didn���t spoil quickly, it was dense with energy, and ��� just as importantly ��� it tasted like something from Mum���s kitchen.

Many families back home in Australia would bake these cakes and send them off to sons, brothers, and husbands stationed far away. Wrapped in brown paper and muslin, and sometimes packed in old biscuit tins, they became a symbol of enduring love.

The Traditional Recipe

A traditional soldiers��� fruit cake was made with pantry staples: dried raisins and sultanas, flour, brown sugar, golden syrup, mixed spice, and often a good splash of rum or brandy. Eggs and butter were included when available, though wartime rationing sometimes meant these were skipped. The cake would be slowly baked, then wrapped tightly to age ��� the flavours deepened, and the shelf-life extended.

There���s even a story of some fruit cakes being received months after being posted ��� a little drier, perhaps, but still edible and still very much appreciated.

More Than Just Cake

These cakes weren���t just about nutrition. They were emotional lifelines. In letters home, soldiers would often thank their loved ones for a fruit cake, recalling how it lifted spirits in a moment of hardship. It reminded them of home ��� of Sunday afternoons, Christmases past, and of family traditions that felt so far away in the mud and fire of war.

Over time, the fruit cake became as symbolic as the Anzac biscuit ��� another wartime staple ��� though with a more personal, homemade touch.

Baking for Remembrance

Today, you���ll still find fruit cake in RSL kitchens and community halls around Anzac Day. Some families carry on the tradition of baking one each year in honour of ancestors who served. It���s a beautiful way to connect with our history, not just through ceremony, but through the smells and tastes that connect us to the past.

So if you're looking for a way to honour our diggers this Anzac Day, maybe consider baking a fruit cake. Share it with loved ones, tell the story behind it, and remember that sometimes, the simplest of things ��� like a slice of cake ��� can carry the heaviest meaning.


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Ingredients: �� lb. each dripping or lard, brown sugar, currants, sultanas, �� lb. raisins, 2 oz. nuts (if available), �� teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons mixed spice, �� nutmeg (grated), �� pint water, 2 teaspoons bicarb. soda, good �� lb. flour.

Put fat, sugar, fruit and nuts, with water, in a saucepan. Boil gently for five minutes, stirring all the time. When cold, sift and stir in flour, salt, spice and nutmeg. And bicarb. soda dissolved in a teaspoon of warm water. Turn into a cake tin that has been lined with paper and bake in a moderate oven 300 deg. F. for 2 to 2�� hours, gradually reducing the heat as the cake cooks.

 

Down in the Garden: Growing Garden Climbers
By Cheralyn Darcey

Creating a lush green wall to hide an unsightly fence, covering a tricky patch of ground, or turning a pergola into a summer shade house and a winter sun trap���these are just a few ways climbing plants can transform your garden. Climbers are versatile plants that add beauty, texture, and functionality to outdoor spaces. Some are natural ground cover plants, known as creepers, while others, called scramblers, are shrubs that can be trained to climb. Whatever their category, climbing plants are a valuable addition to any garden.

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Why Do Plants Climb?

Like all plants, climbers need nutrients, water, and sunlight to thrive. To reach the light, some plants develop strong stems, while others adapt by growing specialized structures that allow them to climb. Instead of expending energy on thick trunks or heavy branches, these plants invest in flexible vines that latch onto other plants or structures, helping them ascend towards the sun.

Deciduous or Evergreen?

When selecting a climber, consider your garden���s needs. Deciduous climbers lose their leaves in winter, making them ideal for pergolas where seasonal sunlight variation is desired. Examples include Wisteria (Wisteria spp.), Crimson Glory Vine (Vitis coignetiae), and Ornamental Grape (Vitis vinifera). Evergreen climbers, such as Jasmine (Jasmine spp.), Mandevilla (Mandevilla spp.), and Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila), provide year-round coverage, making them perfect for fences and walls.

One of the most loved climbers in eastern Australia is Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.), which remains evergreen in warm climates but may shed its leaves in colder areas. While Bougainvillea is low-maintenance, regular pruning is necessary to manage its vigorous growth and thorny stems.

Considerations for Climbing Plants

While climbers can be stunning additions, they also require careful management. Many have strong, extensive root systems that seek water, including underground pipes. Some grow aggressively and can overwhelm garden structures or even damage buildings.

Certain climbers, such as Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) and English Ivy (Hedera helix), are highly invasive. They spread rapidly, choking native plants and causing environmental damage. If you choose such plants, be prepared for diligent maintenance.

Supporting Climbers

Climbing plants lack strong trunks, relying on external supports to grow. When introducing climbers to your garden, provide an appropriate structure based on their growth habits. Light climbers, like Jasmine, need simple trellises or wires. Heavier climbers, like Wisteria, require sturdy frameworks to support their woody vines. Ensure structures are strong enough to bear the plant���s weight over time.

Climbing plants attach to surfaces in different ways. Some, like Hops (Humulus lupulus), use tiny hooks. Others, like Passionfruit Vine (Passiflora edulis), develop tendrils that coil around supports, absorbing shocks from strong winds. English Ivy produces aerial roots that grip walls and fences tightly.

Climbing Flowers

For a cottage-garden aesthetic, climbing roses offer romantic charm. Training rose canes horizontally encourages more blooms. Other stunning flowering climbers include Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea), Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans), and Mandevilla. Each adds vibrant color and beauty to the garden.

Australian Native Climbers

For Australian gardens, native climbers provide an excellent alternative to exotic varieties. Experts at Narara Valley Nursery recommend:

Purple Coral Pea (Hardenbergia violacea) ��� A lightweight vine with stunning purple flowers that thrives in partial to full sun.

Bower of Beauty (Pandorea jasminoides) ��� A favorite for its pink trumpet flowers, though it is sensitive to frost.

Wonga Wonga Vine (Pandorea pandorana) ��� Tolerates light frost and features bell-shaped blooms.

Snake Vine (Hibbertia scandens) ��� A sun-loving creeper that produces bright yellow flowers.

Kangaroo Vine (Cissus antarctica) ��� A shade-loving plant that effectively suppresses weeds.

Choosing the Right Climber

With so many climbers available, selecting the right one for your garden requires thoughtful planning. Consider the plant���s growth habit, support needs, and environmental conditions. A well-matched climber will not only enhance your garden���s beauty but also serve a functional role, providing shade, privacy, and habitat for local wildlife. Happy gardening!

A listener this week asked me how to move his late Mum's rose bush from her house, now it has sold, into his garden. 

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Autumn is an ideal time to move a rose bush and take cuttings for propagation. The cooler temperatures and increased rainfall reduce transplant shock, giving your roses the best chance to establish themselves before winter. Here���s how to successfully relocate your rose bush and propagate new plants from cuttings.

Roses enter a period of dormancy in autumn, making it the perfect season for transplanting. The roots have time to settle in the cooler soil without the stress of summer heat. Moving a rose bush now ensures healthy regrowth in spring.

How to Move a Rose Bush

Choose the Right Spot ��� Pick a location that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily and has well-draining soil.

Prepare the New Hole ��� Dig a hole that is at least twice the width of the root ball and deep enough to comfortably accommodate the roots.

Prune the Rose Bush ��� Cut back about one-third of the bush to reduce stress and make handling easier.

Dig Up the Rose ��� Carefully dig around the root system, aiming to keep as many roots intact as possible.

Replant Immediately ��� Place the rose in the new hole, ensuring the graft union (the swollen area where the rose was grafted) sits just above soil level.

Water Thoroughly ��� Give the newly transplanted bush a deep watering and mulch around the base to retain moisture and regulate temperature.

Keeping Rose Cuttings for Propagation

If you want to grow more roses from the bush you���re moving, taking cuttings is an easy and rewarding method. Here���s how:

Select Healthy Stems ��� Choose semi-hardwood stems (not too green or too woody) about 15���20cm long.

Trim and Prepare ��� Remove the lower leaves and cut just below a leaf node (where the leaf joins the stem).

Dip in Rooting Hormone ��� This step isn���t essential but helps speed up root development.

Plant the Cuttings ��� Push the cut end into a pot filled with a mix of sand and potting soil or directly into a well-drained garden bed.

Maintain Moisture ��� Keep the soil slightly damp but not waterlogged.

Cover for Humidity ��� If possible, cover the cuttings with a plastic bag or clear container to create a greenhouse effect.

Wait for Roots ��� In a few months, new growth should indicate successful rooting. Once established, they can be transplanted to their permanent positions.

Final Tips

Avoid Fertilizing Immediately ��� Give the rose time to settle before adding fertilizer in late winter or early spring.

Monitor for Pests & Diseases ��� Transplanted roses can be vulnerable, so keep an eye out for aphids or fungal infections.

Be Patient ��� Roses take time to recover from transplanting, but with care, they will flourish in their new home


You can catch me on 2HD Newcastle and Super Radio Network Stations across Australia
'Talk Overnights' during the week and on 'Talk Sunday' Evenings 6pm to Midnight

  ���� - to find you local station https://srnradio.com.au/
���������������or stream from anywhere - https://2sm.com.au

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����How To Get Over an Ex, Dowsing for the Rest of Us and Elon Wants to Do What with the ISS????!!!
����Just part of the lively conversation last night on
2hd radio Newcastle and The Super Radio Network

������Links to a bit more information on these and other Hot Topics below���

����I'm back tonight from midnight to 5 am Tuesday.

��� How To Get Over Your Ex
Special Guest Psychologist Carlos Camacho joined us with tips on getting over an ex and getting on with life. Catch up here:
https://lnkd.in/gtks5-RR

��� What���s Dowsing and How Do You Do It?
Betty shared her talents, as did Margie. It sounds like a divine skill and hobby!
https://lnkd.in/gJw-yx6p

��� Elon Musk Wants to Do What with the ISS????!!!
The Space Man has a few usual ideas, but this one probably makes sense -
https://lnkd.in/gTANv7JU

��� How To Grow a Pineapple
Great question Bill! Just buy one from the shops and away you go, but there is a better way -
https://lnkd.in/g_qKXBsP

���What���s that Space App?
Hop onto Astro Dave���s website to catch up with all the Space News and find a galazy of ideas, tips and information.
https://lnkd.in/gEjh_Qjn

���Can My Dog Do That?
Before you welcome a new pooch to the family home, check in with your local council to check laws surrounding your breed and pet ownership in general
https://lnkd.in/gt4ECxNj

���What���s in Your Stars?
Catch up with Astrologer Steve Murphy right here -
https://lnkd.in/gPwaBrxr

����
- to find you local station https://srnradio.com.au/
���������������or stream from anywhere - https://2sm.com.au

HOW TO EAT FLOWERS (AND GROW THEM)

Cheralyn Darcey

Our attraction to flowers is not frivolous or fanciful, it is a survival instinct that without, we would have probably perished. As hunters and gathers, ancient people needed to not only be able to recognise food and medicine sources but also be able to read the signs that indicated the coming fruits and vegetables. If you could recognise apple blossom, you would know apples would surely follow and to see a field of sunflowers one year would tell you that this place would again provide all that these sunny blossoms share to create oils, food and textile materials.

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Most historical investigation will result in the conclusion that people have always consumed flowers and references can be found in most ancient imagery and texts to support this. The use of flowers as food as well as medicine is well noted in Ancient Chinese and Indian cultures and references have been found throughout the Americas as well. Edible flowers are mentioned in Ancient Egyptian texts, the Bible and frescoes uncovered that date back to 1500BCE on the island of Santorini. The Ancient Greeks grew many flowers for culinary purposes including carnation, poppy and lotus and the Ancient Romans too had a great affection for the cultivation of edible blossoms. They had an almost obsession with roses and carnations with both being used as a flavouring and colouring agent as well as food. Calendula, a flower we today regard more for its medicinal qualities was extensively eaten by the Romans and is the original colouring agent for butters and chesses. Indigenous Australians have long used the blooms in culinary ways as well as other parts of native plants.

 

These days with the rise of farm to plate interest and a focus on what can be grown at home for our own cooking explorations, edible flowers of all types are popping up everywhere yet again. I���ve put together a list of blossoms that you can grow and eat along with suggestions for their use based on their inherent flavours. Please note that not all flowers can be consumed with many being toxic or even deadly so be sure of identification and that they are organically grown. Other than that, as they say, ���enjoy!���!

 

Apple (Malus domestica)

These tiny delicate flowers do have an apple flavour to them and work very well in any place you would use apples. Perfect in drinks, sweets, baking and salads. You will need to find a variety that prefers our warmer climate and suggestions include ���Sundowner���, ���Granny Smith��� and ���Fuji���.
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Borage (Borago officinalis)

They taste like fresh cucumbers and make a refreshing tea but can also be added to just about any dish or drink to add a delightful splash of blue with their brilliant royal to sapphire blossoms. It is an annual that requires a very sunny spot, most soils and should be planted in spring through to late summer.

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

This traditionally medicinal flower with fantastic skin-healing properties is also a culinary hero as a natural food dye. It has a mild aromatic flavour and works well in almost any form of cookery. Plant from spring through to autumn in a moist, rich soil in a sunny position.

Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus)

People have been writing about the joys of eating carnations since writing began! They have a peppery taste and make amazing pickles, drink additives and desserts. Plant in spring through to autumn in a full sun position with a free-draining soil.

Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale)

You might be more familiar with this flower as a medicinal herb tea, but it can also work well in salads and stir-fries. The blossoms are sweeter with an almost honey flavour when young and become bitter when older so keep that in mind when harvesting and cooking. You will probably find the flower of this weed growing in your garden but if not, grow your own from seed in the patches of your garden that have poor soil and sad conditions. Don���t worry, they will not only love it, but they will improve your soil.

Day Lily (Hemerocallis spp.)

Here is a plant that offers up yummy tiny tubers that taste just like potatoes as well as delicious flowers with a sweetly cucumber taste. The blossoms are best served in salads and other raw recipes but can be lightly cooked. They are also very good for you with high levels of carotene and Vit C. Day lilies are relatively easy to grow being happy with full sun to part shade and a well fertilised soil. You can plant year-round.

Lavender (Lavandula spp.)

Best with stronger and bitter flavours like dark chocolate or drinks such as wines and spirits, this is a flower that also alienates a few with its strong sweet perfume flavour. The mistake most gardeners make is overwatering lavender. They are a Mediterranean plant and likes full sun, the best drainage you can ensure and light feeding.

Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus)

I love these in egg dishes and on sandwiches and wraps. They have zingy pepper flavour that also works well with stir-fries and salads while looking so bright and inviting.  Plant by seed in autumn and you will find that they are also a wonderful addition to vegetable gardens as pollinators. Soak seeds overnight before planting in full sun in most soils.

Rosella/Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa)
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There are more than a few different types of what we in Australia call native ���Rosella��� and even though they confusingly all have the same botanical name, (Hibiscus sabdariffa) at least they are all edible. Some are referred to as ���Wild Hibiscus���. The dark red calyx of the flower can be used to create jams and syrups and can be candied or persevered in a sugar syrup as well. There is a commercial Australian company that has done very well with their own form of this with a product called ���Wild Hibiscus in Syrup��� that is readily available. The flavour of the calyx is berry-like and can be used best in drinks and sweet dishes while the flowers do well in salads. Grows easily from plant cuttings or seed in late spring through to early summer and needs full sun.                                                  

Roses (Rose spp.)

Most people have a love/hate relationship with rose flavoured foods. They are the base of Turkish Delight, and give an exotic aroma and taste to desserts, drinks and sauces. Sugared rose petals are also a pretty decoration for confections and baking. The trick to using roses is to separate the petals and trim away the white base end of each petal as it has an undesirable flavour. Roses need full sun, at least six hours a day, in a wind-sheltered position with rich well-draining soil.

Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo var. giromontiina)
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With flowers that mildly taste like their yummy vegetables, these blossoms are one of the most popular of the edible flower bunch. They are delicious stuffed with anything you can imagine but are particularly good filled with cheese-based recipes and then fried or baked. They also make wonderful additions to stir-fries and Mexican cuisine. Plant in spring after the risk of frost has well and truly past. They need a compost-rich soil that is free-draining and full sun.

Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus)

Brighten up your next salad with sunflower petals and you will also find they work very well in breads and other baked goods. Their flavour is mildly earthy and reminiscent of leafy greens. Plant seeds from late winter through until late spring but I have personally had success planting year-round on the Central Coast and in Sydney. They need full sun, a moisture-retentive soil and if you are growing taller varieties, a stake for each. 

Tulips (Tulipa spp.)

These pretty flowers make surprising edible mini bowls, perfect for salads or dips, they can also be filled with confections such as ice-cream. Plant in autumn in a sunny, but not overly hot, spot that receives at least four hours of sun a day. They like a friable soil that is kept moist.

Violet (Viola spp.)

Popular as a sugared decoration for baked goods, violets can be tossed into salads, desserts and drinks to add colour and sweet flavour. Plant in autumn and late summer in a semi-shade but bright spot, in a rich moist soil. They are mostly annuals but all easily self-seed.

There are many more flowers that are edible but be sure to research their safety before use and never harvest in parks and along roadsides as chemicals could be used for weed control. It���s important to note that you should remove all non-petal parts of most flowers before use such as the stem, sepal, pistil and stamen. These parts are not usually toxic in edible flowers, but they can be irritants or have unpleasantly bitter flavours. 

 

 

 

 

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me with a HUGE Beetroot!

Spring is the season of veggie patch creation, renewal, and readiness. Everyone should grow at least a few vegetables! I���m not going to give you too much pressure here because from my experience, gardening is something that becomes addictive once you have had a couple of successes. Growing your own vegetables means that you are giving yourself greater choice in varieties and flavours, helping the environment and yourself to a healthier way of living. My tips are; to expect failures and to get out into your garden at least every second day for around five to fifteen minutes and just look around and do one small thing. It is far better to spend small amounts of time regularly than to save it all up for one big blitz when you get the time. You won���t and in the meantime your garden will die. Harsh but true. Also, grow what you know you can look after, don���t go big too early just because you think you can. Being optimistic and realistic at the same time are the keys to becoming a gardener.

Location, Location, Location
If I was the one gardening at your place, I would be turning every possible position into a veggie patch, but you need to ���do you��� as they say. Decide on how many vegetables you think you will want to produce and naturally this will also depend on available space along with your experience and available time. Most vegetables need warmth and at least 6 hours of full, direct sun so your first task is to determine exactly where that is in your garden. Shelter is another often used term, and this means shelter from winds and driving rains. While you might not have this naturally, you can quickly create it with strategically placed lattice in the short term and fast-growing hedges in your longer-range plans.



Time for Beds
There has been a tendency to create raised garden beds the past few years and I have to say that in some instances, I am a fan. They are perfect for those who have trouble getting right down to dirt level and back up and they do help deter destructive pests and if you have pets, they can help keep them out of your food crops! However, you really should ensure that the bottoms of the vegetable beds are open to the earth below if possible, so your added soil are in contact with the soil biome. This currently trending term simply means the organisms living together in the soil of a particular area. The contact you make with the exiting soil below will ensure the worms, the good microbes and insects can help keep your garden bed soil alive. If you can���t do this, then constantly adding compost will help create a living soil biome.

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Spring Preparation and Rejuvenation
Now you have the place and the bed, you will need to do a bit of either preparation or rejuvenation. After supporting the winter crops as well as taking whatever the elements have thrown sat it, soil will need a bit of boosting. If this is a new garden patch, it will need to be enriched to give a supercharged boost to the coming plants. Vegetables need a very rich soil and the fact is, most of our natural soil is not rich enough to support them. While there are various ways of doing this, a simple method is to dig over your patch to the depth of a spade blade, removing old roots and any stones as you go. Two weeks before planting, to each area that is approximately 2 x 2m dig in a mixture of the following: 2 level barrows of compost, 50 litres of cow manure, 50 litres of chicken manure, 50 litres of mushroom compost (or an additional barrow of compost). Worm casting can be added for a super boost!

Planting Tips

Follow the directions of seed/seedlings labels and packets but be prepared to break a few rules. I push the limits of spacing with some of my plantings for example, but research and experience have taught me this. If you are a beginner, follow the ���recipe��� and then experiment later. Ensure that you can physically reach all your plants. This is a novice mistake, planting crops and not thinking ahead to how you will access everything once it has grown. On that, make a note of how the sun falls on your garden and define what will be ���the back���, the area that will usually be towards the West. You don���t want your higher plants to cast shadows across your lower plants during most of the day. Group together the plants with similar environmental needs especially watering and plant those that prefer drier feet on the higher areas of your patch. Select what is suggested for your area and the season because while you may have some success with out of season planting, they will never be as strong, abundant, and healthy as vegetables planted at the right time.  You can get a jump on the season by planting seeds indoors or in greenhouses. Gardening beginners, those who need to ���go back to the drawing board��� and self-proclaimed ���brown thumbs���, pick three vegetables from seasonal suggestions and focus all your attention this season on getting them right and then expand next season. If that seems too much? Pick one! You can always find my weekly planting guide on this page and if you want to plan ahead, hop on over to organicgardener.com.au/planting-guides.

[image error]
me with a HUGE Beetroot!

Spring is the season of veggie patch creation, renewal, and readiness. Everyone should grow at least a few vegetables! I���m not going to give you too much pressure here because from my experience, gardening is something that becomes addictive once you have had a couple of successes. Growing your own vegetables means that you are giving yourself greater choice in varieties and flavours, helping the environment and yourself to a healthier way of living. My tips are; to expect failures and to get out into your garden at least every second day for around five to fifteen minutes and just look around and do one small thing. It is far better to spend small amounts of time regularly than to save it all up for one big blitz when you get the time. You won���t and in the meantime your garden will die. Harsh but true. Also, grow what you know you can look after, don���t go big too early just because you think you can. Being optimistic and realistic at the same time are the keys to becoming a gardener.
Location, Location, Location
If I was the one gardening at your place, I would be turning every possible position into a veggie patch, but you need to ���do you��� as they say. Decide on how many vegetables you think you will want to produce and naturally this will also depend on available space along with your experience and available time. Most vegetables need warmth and at least 6 hours of full, direct sun so your first task is to determine exactly where that is in your garden. Shelter is another often used term, and this means shelter from winds and driving rains. While you might not have this naturally, you can quickly create it with strategically placed lattice in the short term and fast-growing hedges in your longer-range plans.



Time for Beds
There has been a tendency to create raised garden beds the past few years and I have to say that in some instances, I am a fan. They are perfect for those who have trouble getting right down to dirt level and back up and they do help deter destructive pests and if you have pets, they can help keep them out of your food crops! However, you really should ensure that the bottoms of the vegetable beds are open to the earth below if possible, so your added soil are in contact with the soil biome. This currently trending term simply means the organisms living together in the soil of a particular area. The contact you make with the exiting soil below will ensure the worms, the good microbes and insects can help keep your garden bed soil alive. If you can���t do this, then constantly adding compost will help create a living soil biome.

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Spring Preparation and Rejuvenation
Now you have the place and the bed, you will need to do a bit of either preparation or rejuvenation. After supporting the winter crops as well as taking whatever the elements have thrown sat it, soil will need a bit of boosting. If this is a new garden patch, it will need to be enriched to give a supercharged boost to the coming plants. Vegetables need a very rich soil and the fact is, most of our natural soil is not rich enough to support them. While there are various ways of doing this, a simple method is to dig over your patch to the depth of a spade blade, removing old roots and any stones as you go. Two weeks before planting, to each area that is approximately 2 x 2m dig in a mixture of the following: 2 level barrows of compost, 50 litres of cow manure, 50 litres of chicken manure, 50 litres of mushroom compost (or an additional barrow of compost). Worm casting can be added for a super boost!

Planting Tips

Follow the directions of seed/seedlings labels and packets but be prepared to break a few rules. I push the limits of spacing with some of my plantings for example, but research and experience have taught me this. If you are a beginner, follow the ���recipe��� and then experiment later. Ensure that you can physically reach all your plants. This is a novice mistake, planting crops and not thinking ahead to how you will access everything once it has grown. On that, make a note of how the sun falls on your garden and define what will be ���the back���, the area that will usually be towards the West. You don���t want your higher plants to cast shadows across your lower plants during most of the day. Group together the plants with similar environmental needs especially watering and plant those that prefer drier feet on the higher areas of your patch. Select what is suggested for your area and the season because while you may have some success with out of season planting, they will never be as strong, abundant, and healthy as vegetables planted at the right time.  You can get a jump on the season by planting seeds indoors or in greenhouses. Gardening beginners, those who need to ���go back to the drawing board��� and self-proclaimed ���brown thumbs���, pick three vegetables from seasonal suggestions and focus all your attention this season on getting them right and then expand next season. If that seems too much? Pick one! You can always find my weekly planting guide on this page and if you want to plan ahead, hop on over to organicgardener.com.au/planting-guides.

 

 

Apart from gaining a great tasting harvest, growing an Australian Bush Tucker Garden will help provide food and shelter for local wildlife. These plants are naturally suited to the local environment and so will generally need less watering, no or very little fertiliser and not much in the way of soil improvement.
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Eaten and used by Indigenous Australians for centuries as a food source and in some cases as a medicinal aid, it is only fairly recently that these powerhouses of flavour and goodness have been considered as a regular addition to the home garden by most. Some plants, like Lily Pilli, Davidson Plum and Lemon Myrtle have enjoyed wider spread moments of popularity but there is so much more to discover and a whole banquet of Bush Tucker that you can plant and cultivate at your place to bring life to the environment as well as your table. Here is a sample of the plants that you can grow at your place right now. For more information I highly recommend the classic: ���Wild Food Plants of Australia���, Tim Low and for a complete growing, buying and cooking guide, ���First Nations Food Companion���, Damien Coulthard and Rebecca Sullivan is brilliant.

Warrigal Greens (Tetragonia tetragonioides)
Eat as you would English spinach but raw it can be a little bitter for most so blanch first. The tiny flowers are also edible and look pretty sprinkled on baked goods. Although tolerant of most soils, it will do far better in a moist loamy free-draining medium. Growing to only 20cm in height and spreading out to over 2m, it will do well in either full sun or part shade. Warrigal greens die back in winter and then come back in spring.
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Finger Lime (Citrus australasica)
You will need patience as it can take up to 15 years until you are enjoying the caviar-like inner of this delicious fruit if grown by seed and although they can grow from cuttings, the success rate is very low. Most home gardeners fall back on grafted stock obtained commercially which also only attain a height of about 3m. Grow in a wind-sheltered location in full sun to part shade. Most soils are tolerated and fertilising requirements are minimal. Regular citrus feeding at half strength every 3 months will be sufficient for grafted varieties. Keep moist during fruiting and flowering times.
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Old Man Saltbush ��� Tjilyi-tjilyi (Atriplex nummularia)
The seeds and the leaves are the harvestable part of this plant and as the name suggests, imparts a salty flavour to your cooking. Use the leaves like you would any leafy vegetable. A hardy shrub, it will grow 1 to 3m in height and 5m wide and prefers full sun to part shade. Tolerant of most soils and requires no feeding and only regular watering until established. 

Midyim Berry ��� Midgen (Austromyrtus dulcis)
Growing up to 1m in height (sometimes 2m) and 150cm in width these easy to grow plants are gaining popularity as a super food with their high antioxidant properties. You will be harvesting delicious tangy berries after the first year. Does well in most soils and in full sun or part shade. Watering only required to established and when fruiting and flowering. Feed with a native specific fertiliser as per directions during fruiting and flowering.

Pigface (Carpobrotus glaucescens)
If you go down to the beach today, you will probably see these gorgeous bright flowers and their juicy foliage but you can easily grow Pigface at home as well. The leaves can be eaten raw or roasted and used as a salt substitute. Look out for the fruits that give this plant it���s ���Pigface��� name as they are delicious with a salty strawberry flavour. The flowers too are edible and look fabulous in savoury-based dishes and drinks. It will grow up to 20cm in height and to around 2m in width so makes a fantastic rockery or edging plant. It can be easily propagated from cuttings, loves a well-drained soil and it will tolerate both full sun and part shade. Water until established and you can hold back on feeding.
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Bush Tucker Foraging
I spoke with local Bushcrafter Jake Cassar about the possibility of foraging our own bush tucker. While it seems like a natural thing to do there are a few cautions to be aware of. ���There���s heaps of Aussie Natives you can eat when you are out and about and there���s also a lot of introduced plants. As always, you need to be 100% sure of the identification of plants before you eat them as some can make you very sick or even cause death.��� Although there are books, phone apps and websites that can assist with this identification process, mistakes can still be made, especially by the inexperienced. As Jake points out, a lot of plants, their fruit included, can look very similar to each other. Additional care must be taken to ensure plants have not been sprayed with chemicals and when collecting you have to be aware of spiders and snakes. Attending bushcraft training or foraging with a guide is a good way to educate yourself about plant identification and safety. ���You have to be aware also that it is illegal to forage, even for food, in our national parks.��� Jake also cautioned and while you can forage on private land, permission must be granted. With a passion for our environment, he prefers to focus on foraging for introduce species like blackberries, as this helps regenerate our local bush. Some of the local edible natives that are found across the Central Coast include Lilli Pilli, Sour Current Bush, Yams, and Native Raspberries. Jake as a lot of resources on his website and social media and his local bushcraft courses are a great way to learn more about experiencing our Australian bush safely. Find out more at: Jakecassarbushcraft.com

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It���s getting warm where I live and I feel a salad coming on! We are a lucky bunch here and can grow many of the warm weather loving plants that go well in salads nearly year-round but I thought with the summer holidays approaching now would be a great time to focus on which crops you can plant right now for your salad creation foundations. 

Anything edible can find its way into your salad somehow and your imagination is the only limit to what you decide to toss in but here are a yummy bunch of foundation ingredients that you can plant right now in your gardens to ensure you are enjoying fresh, delicious ���Coast Grown��� salads this summer. 
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Lettuce

(Lactuca sativa)

Harvest will depend on type and oh what an amazing variety we can enjoy these days in our gardens. As with all plants, you will find a far greater selection available in seeds so check with local nurseries and online suppliers. Plant 6mm in depth and 20 to 30cm apart. One important note for Coast gardeners: If the soil temperature is greater than 25C you will find difficultly in germination occurring so seedlings may be a better bet at this time of year with our sudden scorchers. 

Lettuce need a moist and rich soil. They detest drying out and can bolt (come into flower) or die rather quickly if their water level falls sharply but drainage is a must as the key is damp soil, not water-logged. Water the ground, not the leaves in the early morning and never at night or during the day to avoid pest attraction and disease. A nitrogen-rich feed every fortnight will improve the leaf growth and health. You can plant most lettuce in pots, ones with loose leaves generally do better. Harvest individual outer leaves carefully during growth and whole plants on maturity. For Coast Gardens, you might consider: ���Great Lakes���, ���Green Cos���, ���Butternut���, ���Diamond Gem���, ���Green Salad Bowl���.

 

Tomato

(Solanum lycopersicum L)

There are two types of tomatoes when considering harvesting, those that fruit continually throughout their growing period and those that have fruit which all comes to a ripening stage at about the same time. I recommend planting at least one of each and it is not too late to plant either, but I would plant seedlings rather than seeds to ensure quicker cropping. 

They all need a sunny and warm position that receives at least six full hours of direct sunshine each day. Ensure that your plants are protected from wind and space plants around 50cm apart. Never plant in the same bed two seasons running either as they are heavy feeders of nitrogen and potassium phosphorus and your garden needs time to recover. Although tomatoes are not too fussy about their soil types, for the best crops, it should have a pH level of 5.8 to 6.8, be high in organic matter and be free draining.

Consistent, deep watering should be undertaken to ensure a healthy plant and well-developed fruits and water the base of the plants, not the leaves to lessen the chance of attracting pests and disease.  Use a liquid seaweed fertiliser weekly at half strength, a fortnightly feed with an organic fertiliser and to encourage the plant to uptake nutrients also add a heaped tablespoon of sulphate of potash. Although unripe fruit will ripen after harvesting, tomatoes are best left on the vine to fully ripen before harvest to ensure full flavour. Cut from vine, never pull. For Coast Gardens, you might consider: ���Summertaste���, ���Tumbler���, ���Roma���, ���Tropic���, ���Black Krim���

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Radish

(Raphanus sativus)

Harvest will vary greatly depending on variety but is generally is between 4 and 8 weeks. Plant seeds 6mm deep and space plants 3 to 5cm apart. A double-duty salad favourite as the leaves are also a fantastic peppery addition. Harvest leaves lightly while growing though if at all as it is better to wait until harvest of the bulb. At this time of the year, radish is best planted in a light shaded area of the garden. In winter go for full sun. They like a lighter soil that is lower in nitrogen to promote quick bulb growth. Feed with a low nitrogen fertiliser every two weeks and keep watering constant but do not allow to become waterlogged. They are also ideal for container gardening. Radish is harvested by carefully pulling from the garden and it must be harvested as soon as it matures because they will turn woody and tough if left too long in the ground. For Coast Gardens, you might consider: ���French Breakfast���, ���Cherry Belle���, ���Scarlet Globe���

 

Cucumber

(Cucumis sativus) 

Harvest in around 8 weeks. Plant 12mm deep and space place 40 to 50cm apart. 

Cucumbers are climbers so will need a support structure to grow upon. They must have a nice loose soil and, on the Coast, will prefer a semi-shade position as we have very hot summers. This need not be more than about 20% shade time during the day and you may consider just using a temporary structure (like an umbrella or cloth) on very hot days. You do need to ensure they have very good airflow and that the soil is compost rich. Mulching is non-negotiable for cucumbers but ensure you use lucerne, pea-straw, or the like and keep it away from the stem. Hold off on feeding too much before fruiting as you want to encourage cucumbers, not cucumber leaves but once they appear, feed every fortnight with a seaweed-based fertiliser. Care must be taken with watering as they are prone to fungal disease so water the ground, not the plants. Harvest by cutting the cucumber off the vine, don���t pull. For Coast Gardens, you might consider: ���Green Gem���, ���Bushy Champion���, ���Crystal Salad���, ���Telegraph Improved��� 

 

Spring Onion

(Allium fistulosum and cepa var.cepa)

Harvest in about 10 weeks. Plant seeds 6mm deep and space plants 1 to 2cm.

They will need a full sun position and like a friable, fertile soil to grow in. They are rather thirsty and will require constant watering but don���t let soil become soggy. Feed with a liquid fertiliser every few weeks to ensure good growth. Weeds need to be removed by hand gently as they can unsettled the root structure of these plants which will lead to them dying. Pests tend to be attracted to dry plants so keep watering consistent. They do not produce as well in pots and do far better in garden plots. Harvest by gently pulling up the plant. 

For Coast Gardens, you might consider: ���White Lisbon���, ���Straightleaf���

 
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Edible Flowers

I cannot go past edible flowers for summer salads and growing your own not only helps make your salads extra delightful but assists your garden look that way too and helps invite the pollinators for all of your plants.  Correct identification must be undertaken and naturally only ever use organically grown flowers. A few to sprinkle on your salads include: 

Rose (Rosa spp.), French Marigold (Tagetes patula), Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), Native Violet (Viola hederacea), Dahlia (Dahlia spp.)  Pansy (Viola tricolor var. hortensis), Snapdragon (Antirrhinum spp.), Stock (Matthiola incana) 

 

Herbs

So many delicious herbs work so well tossed through your salads raw, fresh or lightly toasted to bring out their flavours even more and naturally, added to dressings. Right now, just a fee of the herbs you can plant include basil, parsley, sage, lemongrass, marjoram, chilli, oregano and mint. 

 

Of course, there are endless possibilities to what you can put in your salads and these are just a few you can plant right now on in temperate areas to ensure you and your family and friends have delicious home-grown and healthy salads to enjoy through our coming summer. 

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