Eamonn Sheehy's Blog - Posts Tagged "africa"

Morocco - Nass El Ghiwane in Jamaa El Fnaa (Square Of The Dead), Marrakech 2015

Those of you who have been to Marrakech will no doubt have revelled in the dark excitements of Jemaa El Fnaa - the Square Of The Dead. My recent trip to Morocco, where I took a long haul trip across the Southern flank of this jaw- droppingly large country, meant a first for me in Marrakech. And in Jemaa, I managed to come across some excellent traditional music. I got some of the live sets on camera, initially for the sound (I love listening back to soundscapes of different cities I have visited), but the video is interested, albeit shaky.
Now, I absolutely hate sideways videos - but I got a bit confused in the dark and chaos of a late night Jemaa El Fnaa. I had just been rumbled by the snake charmers of the Square, who fleeced me and a travel friend of ten euro, so I was still a bit unnerved and disorientated. Nevertheless, what we ended up witnessing (I have been informed) were the remaining members of a classic Moroccan band called Nass El Ghiwane.
The music is utterly fantastic. Nass El Ghiwane are the same band from the Ahmed El Maanouni 1981 film 'Transes', which was restored and released on the Criterion Collection by Martin Scorsese a few years back. As you can see from the start of the 'Transes' video, the mania surrounding this band in their heyday reached something of a frenzy, and quiet unseen in modern day terms.

I have another sample of an equally fantastic band of musicians I recorded in Jemaa El Fnaa on this recent November trip which I will post in the next blog update. Meanwhile enjoy, and please comment with any recommended places to visit for my next trip to Marrakech!

http://youtu.be/NsE3xCpFUXk
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Published on February 11, 2016 05:03 Tags: africa, books, ceuta, fortresseurope, journalism, morocco, nonfiction, spain, tangier, travelwriting

Music from the Square Of The Dead - Jemaa El Fna after Sundown, Marrakech, Morocco

Here is a new recording from my last trip to Morocco - this time Marrakech's Square Of The Dead (Jemaa El Fna). A live music jam from one of the many music circles that take over the square after sundown.

Jemaa El Fna, Marrakech's main square is a lively place at the best of times, but it really comes into its own at night. A wander across this centuries old theatre of human spectacle in the twilight hours can be chaotic and exhilarating. Hot food stalls, Snake Charmers, Street boxing, Scammers, Traders and (for me the best of all) ecstatic live music.

On any given night you can pick from a variety of styles, all Moroccan - and drift in and out between dizzying guitar jams and whirling call and response chorus's. This 5 minute recording is from one of my favourite musical circles who played the square over the few nights I was in Marrakech.

They remind me of Nass Marrakech - but I am not aware of this groups name.

If you have been to Jemaa El Fna, please comment below to tell us what you experienced!

Video and photography at:
http://www.migratetothefringe.com/blo...

Summer In The City State
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Published on April 23, 2016 07:00 Tags: africa, marrakech, morocco, music, nightlife, travel-writing