Susan J. Bocock's Blog

April 19, 2022

My Impromptu Italian Book Tour-part 3

Part 3 - Gatta Morena book signing and a couple of side trips

In my last blog post we were enjoying lunch at Casala Gatta Morena in northern Lazio, a place I had stayed several times and made special friends who I wrote about in my book, Italy Through the Rear-View Mirror. While 2 of the couples that we were travelling with headed home after our lengthy, Italian-style pranzo, Gord and I chose to stay the night, along with friends Joe and Filomena. I wanted to spend a little more time with Tiziana, and we also wanted to see more of the area.

After getting settled into the cozy apartments that Tiziana had waiting for us and taking a few minutes to relax, we decided to take a drive to Pitigliano, a scenic medieval town just across Lazio’s regional boundary into Tuscany. Dramatically situated above a steep river valley, it is part of an area called Borghi del Tufo where towns have been built from the surrounding volcanic tuff rock.

Once known as Little Jerusalem, Pitigliano was a haven for a large Jewish community from as early as the 14th century, including those later fleeing persecution in Rome during WWII. We intentionally arrived later so that we could see the old town, including the iconic Medici Aqueduct, elegantly lit up against the night sky. Aperitivo and gelato capped off our visit before we headed back to Gatta Morena and I slid into bed, expecting some sogni d’oro, sweet dreams.

In the morning we joined Tiziana and Pino for coffee and the remains of Marta’s delicious torta di mele (apple cake) from yesterday’s pranzo. After breakfast I had a chance to share my book with Tiziana on a more intimate level, reminisce about some wonderful experiences I had shared during prior visits (the last one being almost 10 years earlier) and catch up on the lives of some special people I had met through Tiziana that I also wrote about. She expressed her love and appreciation for being included in my book.

As I had written, my first stay at Gatta Morena (way back in 2010) was probably the single most impactful experience of any I had in Italy, either before or since, and I could not have been more grateful. After taking pictures that I will cherish and sharing warm hugs and promises not to wait another 10 years to return, it was our turn to say goodbye.

Side trip to Saturnia
While the opportunity to reconnect with Tiziana and to share my book with her was the main reason for my trip, we wanted to take full advantage of our surroundings. For me that had to include a visit to the Saturnia thermal baths. To call them baths really does not do them justice. These thermal springs, extending across an enclosed area of beautiful Tuscan countryside, consisted of tiers of travertine pools with sulfur-rich waters cascading between them. Visitors find their own nooks and crannies everywhere you turn, to relax and soak in the hot thermal waters.

After wading in the waters, and some amusing people watching, we made our way back to the car, and onward. We stopped briefly to enjoy some characteristic Tuscan scenery, including rows of cypress trees lining the driveways to country estates, but once we had our fill of picture taking, we set our GPS towards the Monte Argentario promontory along the west coast of Tuscany. Here we enjoyed a late picnic lunch on the beach before hitting the highway to Rome and circumnavigating it for the quickest route back to Fondi.

All told it was a lot to pack into 2 days, but oh so rewarding. My heart was full.
Gatta Morena
Saturnia

Pitigliano
Cypress Trees
Up next – My book tour takes me North to Elba Island

Italy Through the Rear-View Mirror: Finding Connection and Belonging
Susan J. Bocock
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Published on April 19, 2022 18:46

April 5, 2022

My Impromptu Italian Book Tour - Part 2

A Side Trip to Casale Gatta Morena

While a number of the people and experiences I wrote about in Italy Through the Rear-View Mirror were centred in and around the small city of Fondi, quite a few took place throughout the Italian peninsula, as well as on its 3 largest islands. To connect with most of the other key people, I tentatively organized a week of touring at the end of our 2021 stay in Italy

During that week I planned to make 5 stops that would take us north of Rome (Lazio) then to Elba Island (Tuscany), further north to Piedmont, east to Chianti (Tuscany) and finally into Rome. That was going to be one long week. And we would be racking up over 16 hours of driving time alone. Ouch.

As it turned out, when I mentioned the idea of a road trip to visit friends at Casale Gatta Morena, some of our Fondi friends were very interested. They were good friends with the owners, Tiziana and Pino, and had not seen them in ages, years even. For Marta and Piero this meant organizing time off work as well as someone to take care of Marta’s ailing mother. For Ida and Giancarlo, arrangements were simpler, as was the case for Joe and Filomena. The ladies found a date that worked for everyone, organized who was bringing what for lunch, and the following week the 8 of us were off, convoying in 2 vehicles.

The trip was an experience from start to finish. It seemed like no sooner than we got going, we were stopping for coffee. As I write in the book, “I’ve decided that this is just what Italians do.” But we didn’t just pull over at an Auto Grill along the highway. Giancarlo guided us into Aprile, where he knew a caffe/ patisseria that made delicious pastries in house. Let’s just say we sampled several! And when Joe suggested we should get going, Piero ask what the hurry was. He and Marta considered this a holiday, and the drive was very much part of the journey.

Casale Gatta Morena
Tiziana and Pino greeted us with open arms, and it was like old home week after that. We eventually settled down for an extended lunch under the pergola, with homemade contributions from Tiziana, Marta, Ida, and Filomena. Our boring but much appreciated contribution was the vino. There was lots of reminiscing and laughter, breaks between courses to wander through Tiziana’s garden and pick fresh herbs, relax in the yard, take pictures, catch up.

I had my own relationship with Tiziana from the several times I had stayed here, but today I was enjoying watching this group of old friends get re-acquainted. I savoured being a small part of the picture. And while I was on the periphery of these relationships, simply watching the love and tenderness and joy that was on display only added to my love affair with Italy, and the feelings of connection and belonging that I had tried to capture in my book.

It was late afternoon before the gathering finally broke up. Gord and I were staying the night, along with Joe and Filomena, but the other 4 were heading back to Fondi that evening, back to work in the morning. There were group pictures and long good-byes, and then they were gone.

Italy Through the Rear-View Mirror: Finding Connection and Belonging
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Published on April 05, 2022 16:29

February 22, 2022

My Impromptu Italian Book Tour

Introduction
After spending over two years writing my first book, Italy Through the Rear-View Mirror, the only thing I wanted to do as soon as it was published was to return to Italy. Return and reconnect with the friends I’d made. Return and share my book with the special people I’d written about. Return and enjoy the Italian lifestyle that I had come to know and love.

As soon as Italy was open for vaccinated Canadians to visit for non-essential purposes (2021) my flights were booked, and my bags packed. And in those bags, I found room for a dozen fresh off the press copies of my book, ready to find their new homes.

To take a step back for a moment, Italy Through the Rear-View Mirror is about finding a sense of connection and belonging in unexpected places. While pursuing my passion for Italy, travelling to all 20 regions over 15 years, Italy and its inhabitants helped me discover the real reason behind a growing attachment to a country I otherwise had no connection with. A rear-view mirror perspective opened my eyes to the underlying role that every-day aspects of Italian culture and lifestyle had played in fostering those connections. My travels through Italy helped illuminate how we are all wired for connection, how we crave a sense of belonging, and how simple human encounters can feed our soul.

I’m not quite sure what an official book tour looks like, but here are some highlights from my unofficial one. And I loved every minute of it.

Fondi – Where it all Began
Like many of my trips to Italy over the years, this one began in Fondi (about 90 minutes south of Rome). Here I reconnected with several individuals who were each an integral part of my Italian journey. This included Zia Gina, an elderly aunt of our Canadian friend Joe and his wife Filomena, who continue to maintain a family home in Italy, their friends Lucio and Maria Pia, and Bruno and Luciana, two couples who have become friends of ours as well, Marta who, along with her brothers, run a local cafe/bar where I have spent a lot of time over the years, and our friend Luigi from the beach.

Before arriving in Fondi I was told by a friend that Marta was so moved to tears when another friend translated what I had written about her. Marta told me the same thing when I visited to give her a copy of my book. I was full of pride, and so thrilled, that my words had such an impact. And throughout our stay in Fondi, our relationship only grew, including an invitation to lunch with a large group of her friends, that she said we are now a part of. That felt like a big hug that never let go.

Zia Gina had lost her husband, Paolo, since I had written the book, but she was still delighted to see pictures of her and Paolo in the book. I loved that a bit of the Feula family history was woven through the book and that she was still here to share it with.

Luigi owned and operated a private beach club called Moorea, where we often parked and went for coffee while at the beach. I had written about him and his family run business, and the connection Gord and I made over time and you could tell how proud he was to have been included in the book. It was very touching to see, and feel, what it meant to him.

The other friends from Fondi that I noted above appreciated their copies and humoured me by having our pictures taken together with the book but are patiently waiting for an Italian translation so they can read it themselves! That would be a dream come true! In the interim, Luciana got her daughters to translate what I wrote about her and Bruno. She also had all kinds of enthusiastic ideas for me about how to market the book in Italy, even to patrons at her campground. I think I should put her on commission!

An unexpected pleasure occurred when I was introduced to a friend of someone who I had met in Fondi several years earlier. Shelly was visiting for a week and when the two of them heard about my book, they both instantly purchased copies. Amazon delivered in less than 2 days, just in the nick of time for me to meet up with Shelly to sign her copy before we left Fondi the next day. I couldn’t sign the other one as it was an e-book, but hopefully they both enjoyed the read. It was certainly a pleasure meeting Shelly and learning about her travels across the US.

I also wanted to mention an unexpected pleasure meeting Tommaso, the owner of a restaurant in nearby Sperlonga, called Il Tramonto (The Sunset). This story is very much in line with the theme of my book, reflecting on family and friendships and meaningful connections. The story starts on the east coast of Canada, where I struck up a conversation with Lucca, the owner of an Italian restaurant in Halifax, called Sapori: Italian Street Food. When I asked him where in Italy he was from, he showed me on a big map hanging in the restaurant – Sperlonga! What? I had been to the beautiful seaside town of Sperlonga many times and, in fact, was going to be there about a month after our conversation. Honestly, what are the odds?

When all was said and done, I had a card from Lucca with a note to his dad and cousins on the back, and I had promised to drop off a copy of my book, which talked about Sperlonga, and even had a picture of the beach below the town that coincidently included Il Tramonto in the background. Again, too crazy to seem real. I knew I had to visit when we were there. And visit we did. We were equally pleased to meet each other, and I to recount our meeting with his son that led us to visiting Tommaso. We had a lovely meal, including wine compliments of the house, and I promised to return with a copy of my book. At this point I had already run out of the copies I had brought with me and actually had to order more on-line to have enough for everyone I wanted to give a copy to. Something I was more than happy to do.

We went back a week or so later with our local friends Joe and Filomena, and had another wonderful meal, complete with a beautiful sunset over the water, something Il Tramonto is known for in addition to its food. Tommaso was happy to receive a copy of my book (he said his wife would be able to translate for him), and he also had a gift for us. His wife had purchased a cute set of ceramic coffee cups from a local artist. I hope to meet her some day and thank her personally for her kindness.

Everyone in Fondi seemed genuinely honoured to have been included in my book. And I could not have felt a greater sense of satisfaction as these exchanges unfolded. It seemed that what I had tried to write about in the book, the sense of connection and belonging that grew over time with these special people, was coming back to me tenfold as I shared my book and what I had written with them. My heart was full.

Part II – A trip to visit friends at Casale Gatta Morena - Coming soon to a theatre near you : )

Ps. Due to technical difficulties, to see related pictures please link to www.facebook.com/SusanJBocockAuthor/

book: https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/5...
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Published on February 22, 2022 20:43 Tags: connecting, italy, regions-of-italy, travel

July 30, 2021

Regions of Italy-Friuli

Friuli Venezia Giulia
This region is tucked up in the northeastern corner of Italy, bordered by Austria to the north, Solvenia to the east, the Adriatic Sea to the south, and the Italian region of Venezia to its west. The region has changed hands multiple times over its history, coming under the control of formidable rulers such as Julius Caesar, Charlemagne, and Napoleon. The result is a region steeped in cultural diversity. The population is an ethnic mix of its neighbours that sets it apart from the rest of Italy, offering a unique blend of Italian and European styles. Friuli is one of the five regions in Italy given special status to help protect its linguistic and cultural heritage, including the languages of Friulian, Slovene and German. Click on the link below for pictures from my 2013 and 2017 visits. https://www.facebook.com/SusanJBocock...
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Published on July 30, 2021 06:23

June 5, 2021

Trentino Alto Adige/Sudtirol

This is one of the five regions of Italy with designated special, autonomous, status, to acknowledge its distinct cultural and linguistic heritage (German and Italian are both official languages, although German is primarily spoken in the northern province of Alto Adige/South Tyrol). The region is located in northern Italy, bordering Austria and Switzerland, and is well known for its mountains, including the beautiful and striking Dolomites, and its ski resorts (eg Val Gardena). It also borders Lake Garda, one of the 5 major lakes in Italy’s Lake District.

Having lived in western Canada for many years, enjoying access to the mountains for skiing, hiking, biking, etc, I have a special place in my heart for the mountain regions of Italy. In Trentino I spent time exploring and hiking in the Bolzano and Merano areas in particular, as well as in Riva del Garda at the northern tip of Lago di Garda. We also toured by car west, through the Stelvio pass to Switzerland, and north through both the Brenner and Resia passes into Austria. It is certainly a great region for outdoor enthusiasts, but there is much more to see and do. It is Italy’s most northern wine region, and a cultural crossroads.

Visit www.facebook.com/susanjbocockauthor and search "trentino" to see some images.

For more about my experiences through the 20 regions of Italy check out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/0228844495
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Published on June 05, 2021 10:26

May 29, 2021

Regions of Italy-Piedmont

Piemonte is in northwest Italy, bordered by France and Switzerland, as well as by the Italian regions of Aosta, Lombardy, Liguria, and a tiny bit of Emilia-Romagna. As its name suggests, Piedmont lies at the foot of the mountains.

Italy’s second largest region, it is surrounded by mountains on three sides and is home to many of the highest peaks and largest glaciers in Italy. The landscape is very diverse, from rugged peaks to rolling hills covered with vineyards, to rice fields and plains.

My experiences in Piedmont centred around Torino (Turin) where I spent 2 weeks during the 2013 World Masters Games, and the Monferrato wine district, where I spent 3 weeks working at La Casaccia Agriturismo and Winery, in 2019. I also spent a little time along the western shore of Lago Maggiore, including the resort town of Stresa. I loved it all!

Turin is the regional capital of Piedmont, was the first capital city of Italy, and for centuries before that was the heart of the Kingdom of Savoy. Not surprising, the city is rich in history and culture. With the Po River running through it and the Alps as its backdrop, it is also strikingly beautiful. A mix of elegant architecture combined with broad, well-lit streets sets its historic centre apart from many of Italy’s more traditional medieval towns, where streets tend to be narrow and haphazard and the Romanesque architecture heavy and stocky.

I had an injury that unfortunately kept me from competing in the Turin Games, but the upside was that I could spend more time touring the city.

La Casaccia Agriturismo and Winery (http://www.lacasaccia.biz/) sits about an hour east of Turin. For some background, I was at La Casaccia as a volunteer, working in exchange for room and board (part of an exchange program called WWOOF (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms- https://wwoof.it/en

It was a way to extend my stays in Italy without breaking the bank, to practise my Italian and, as much as possible, to live like a local. I chose La Casaccia for several reasons. A major draw was its location in Piedmont, a region I wanted to spend more time exploring. The fact that La Casaccia was a B&B /agriturismo as well as a winery was also appealing. It turned out to be an amazing experience with a wonderful family who hosted me. I loved every minute of it, and learned a lot about wine making while practicing my Italian. I also had the luxury of exploring the area on electric bikes.

This is a spectacular region of Italy that I can't wait to return to. My visits offered just a glimpse of what Piedmont has to offer.

This is an informative site about the region of Piedmont: https://meetpiemonte.com/en/blog/the-...

For information on the Monferrato wine region, visit:
https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions...

check out www.facebook.com/susanjbocockauthor and search "piedmont" to see some images.

Italy Through the Rear-View Mirror: Finding Connection and Belonging
Susan J. Bocock
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Published on May 29, 2021 11:19

Regions of Italy-Valle d'Aosta

This is my first post in a series, about travel through the 20 regions of Italy.

https://medium.com/@suziebocock/wande...

Italy Through the Rear-View Mirror: Finding Connection and Belonging
Susan J. Bocock
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Published on May 29, 2021 11:18