Dawn Filos's Blog

I have posted blogs in the past about how to care for and treat aging pets. I have shared other posts about the beauty of old dogs. I have detailed supplements to help slow down aging, and things to look for in your pets to help them age gracefully, with as much quality of life as possible. The physical needs are obvious and often easier to treat than the psychological and behavioral changes that challenge them and the families that live with them.

At this point in my dog’s life, all of these issues are front and center for me, my family, and my dog India. She is solidly in the senior dog stage of her life, at 13 1/2 years of age. There are several charts, and even studies that have tried to quantitate how many human years that would be. Suffice it to say, for me, as a pet parent and a veterinarian, I don’t need to multiply her age by 7, or do an even more elaborate calculation such as the one in a recent paper, that involved knowing the “natural log” of your dog (what even is that?). I know she’s old. As a general rule, senior cats are those over 15 years of age, while dogs vary in their lifespan based on their size. Giant breeds such as Mastiffs may be senior at 8, while Chichihua is senior closer to 12 years of age.

Most important to keep in mind: Age is not a disease.

As a veterinarian, it is key to establish a good relationship with pet parents, help them recognize signs of aging, and come to grips with the fact that their pet is older, and prepare them to give those pets the best care, for the last part of their pets’ lives. Sadly, I am acutely aware of those discussions, because I am having them with my own family. It is important for everyone in a family to be on the same page in terms of what they are physically willing to do to provide the necessary care to maintain a quality of life for their pet. They need to determine realistically what they are financially willing to provide for medical and physical needs of their pet. And, they need to emotionally be able to handle the care and understand that death is inevitable.

Quality is always more important than quantity.

Age should not determine euthanasia, if it comes to that. Progressive, untreatable disease should.

This blog is not intended to discuss medications and dosages, nor supplements, in detail. It is more about the management of these pets, and being able to recognize changes in their physical appearance, mentation, and emotional well-being as it evolves in the aging process.

I will say, going through it myself is so hard. I have had pets my entire life, and treated pets for decades. As an adult, I have had dogs that suffered diseases that did not allow them to live to ripe old ages. Veterinarians like myself have pets that seem to be stricken with more issues, and my dog India has survived to an older age than most of my previous pets. I am older as well, and she has been the empty nest soulmate that has gotten me through three children leaving for college, and for their adult lives. I am not suggesting that pets are more loved and supportive to people as they are older, but for me, this is a challenging stage of my life, and she has been a huge help to me.  And I know I am not alone.

I recall a year ago coming to the “sudden” realization that she was senior. For some reason, I was in denial … wasn’t she 7 years old a minute ago?! India has had, and continues to have, several disease issues at once. We call them comorbidities… and it is very common for most of my senior patients to have several things going on as well as the physical and cognitive signs of aging. Your vet will select a plan, taking into account what medications your pet may be on.

There certainly are physical signs of aging in senior pets that you can look for (and not ignore if you are like me).
– Arthritis
– Muscle loss due to aging, where the spine is more prominent (known as sarcopenia)
– Muscle atrophy secondary to arthritis
– Degenerative aging (sight and hearing loss)
– Metabolic comorbidities which may or may not have conflicting treatment options (hyper or hypothyroidism, heart disease, cancer for eg.)
– Decreased ability to smell, taste and see

Ways to enhance their PHYSICAL needs:
– Massage
-Assisted grooming

-Heated beds with pet safe pads, or cuddle discs
-Softer bedding/orthopedic beds, to prevent pressure sores
– Stairs to assist getting up and down off furniture, and ramps to help navigate steep steps. Carriages can help dogs and cats “go on walks” just like they used to, if unable to walk due to back or arthritis issues.

– Lower sided litter boxes for cats, or even puppy pans, to alleviate or lower inappropriate litter issues often seen
-Have bedding, along with food/water, or litter boxes close to each other (but not directly next to each other)
-PLAY! Movement is key to keeping the joints, ligaments, tendons and muscles from seizing up and further causing muscle atrophy. Games on smart phones, such as laser tag, and food puzzles stimulate the body and mentation.
– Joint supplements(glucosamine based), CBD, Coenzyme Q10, Vitamins E, C and A, Fatty acids and Omega acid supplements, etc.
-Complementary therapies such as tPEMF(Assisi Loop), acupuncture or Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), and laser. Your vet can explain these and go into further details.

– Additional lighting for pets whose vision is challenged. It can lower stress.
-Add more hand gestures to speaking language to aid in pets with hearing loss from age.
– Heat food to increase the smell of it, which enhances the aroma and increases palatability. Senior pets need protein rich diets to maintain muscle mass… discuss with your vet depending on other disease contraindications.
– 3-4 visits a year to your vet, and discuss which vaccines are necessary, depending on any illness your pet may have.

Behavioral changes to look for in senior pets may be subtle. When pets are incorrectly determined to be ornery, aggressive, or short-tempered because of age… it is an opportunity to teach owners to identify underlying issues that could be causing those behaviors; both physical and emotional.
-Stress can cause pets to either “pull away” in affection, or the converse, and your pet may be more needy and attached you like “velcro”.
-Not every senior pet wants a kitten or puppy brought into the home. They may not appreciate children, nor a new spouse, partner, baby or move to a new home. Is someone ill in the home or are their other emotional hardships that the pet is noticingAll can be stressors.

Cognitive determination
There is an anagram we use to rule out cognitive dysfunction, or senility, in our pets, known as DISHA, or (DISHAA).
Disorientation
Interactions
Sleep-wake cycle disturbances
House soiling
Activity
Anxiety

You may also see excessive vocalization (this is a big issue in my home, especially at night, and is very common and associated with the sleep-wake cycle disturbances common to seniors). As well, you may notice altered response to stimuli, decreased self-hygeine (especially in cats), and alterations in appetite.

There are medications and supplements that can aid with some of these cognitive decline issues. See my prior blog for details,

https://drdawnthepetvet.com/senility-dementia-and-alzheimers-in-dogs-and-cats/

-Routine bloodwork can determine if metabolic disease is present. For example, untreated thyroid disease in cats can cause blindness. Sometimes metabolic disease symptoms can thus mimic dementia.
-Radiographs may be needed to confirm presence and severity of arthritis, which can cause sleep disturbances as they try to reposition to get more comfortable.

How to address Emotional/Cognitive needs :
– ROUTINE.. stick to it!
-Attention to cleanliness, especially with cats. Grooming plays a large role in their feeling well.
– Physical touch and love (petting and personal attention time)
-Familiarity with environment (minimize changes). Ie, this is not the time to rearrange furniture.
– Minimize boredom (sleep is a common reflex to boredom and being ignored)
– Play, to further reduce chances of boredom.
– Pharmaceuticals/nutraceuticals/pheromones for dementia (see above referenced blog).

Overall, it is important to be attuned to your pet to be able to give them their best life as seniors.

Best,
Dr. Dawn

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We can all agree- when it comes to things we are thankful for in our lives, our beloved pets are always at the top of our list. Thanksgiving is a holiday intended to do just that.
BUT, the combination of lots of food, many people, and other distractions can easily make a get together one of regrets for your pets. No one wants to spend an overnight in the ER with their pet. Think about these safety tips to ensure that your holiday is one that is safe and fun for you and your furry loved ones.

Keep your pet away from these dangerous festive foods and ingredients

Turkey. Avoid giving your pet turkey meat especially fatty dark meat and skin. The skin is high in fat, and can cause gastrointestinal upset, or even pancreatitis.
A few  small boneless, well cooked, preferably non-seasoned pieces of white meat should be fine. Salmonella lurks in uncooked or undercooked meat.
Raw meat is a no no, as is a leftover bones. They can splinter and cause gastrointestinal injury, and can also be a choking hazard. There is always at least one family member present that insists they have given their dog turkey bones “for years and he has always been fine”.  That may be true, but I am here to tell you that it is a real concern.
That guest, who may sneak food under the table, will be long gone or long asleep by the time you are at the vet deciding to uninvite them next year, if not forever.

Spices Onion, leeks, chives and garlic are toxic to dogs and cats. Be aware of what you have added to your meal, or other guests have added. Their “secret” ingredient may need to be disclosed if you intend to feed table scraps to your pet. As always, it is better to avoid table scraps in general, but I know enough to assume that it will happen and it is best to choose safer “treats”.

Bread
Cooked bread pieces are probably the safest “snack”. Unbaked dough containing yeast is not, for your dog or cat. The reasons are twofold. First, the dough can continue to rise  and expand in the heat of the body once ingested, potentially resulting in an intestinal blockage.
And, once eaten, the yeast will continue to convert the dough’s sugars into carbon dioxide and alcohol, which could become a life-threatening situation for your pet.
My advice: If you are making homemade dinner rolls, be sure to proof your dough somewhere out of reach such as in a turned-off oven or microwave, as opposed to the easy to reach counter.

Desserts
Keep pets away from mixing bowls with raw eggs, possible xylitol (artificial sweetener toxic to dogs), chocolate, fruitcakes that contain raisins or currants.

Instead, feed them
raw fruits and vegetables such as baby carrots, green beans, apples, chunks of sweet potato, or UNSWEETENED pumpkin puree (the sweetened spiced pie filling is not a good idea).

Since we are discussing pumpkins….
If you decorate with pumpkins, avoid giving your pets too much raw pumpkin. In moderation it can be ok and help with some digestive issues that are helped with fiber. Too much can csue stomach upset. And old pumpkins can become rotten, which when ingested can harbor illness-causing bacteria.
Consider fake candles, that are battery operated. Tails can swish a lit candle-filled pumpkin, causing injury or a fire. Keep them out of reach of pets.

Decorations
Beware of small pieces on decorations that pets could ingest. Same goes for costumes you might put on your pet. (See Halloween blog for tips on whether or not this is a good idea for your pet).

If you put up a Christmas tree on or soon after Thanksgiving, keep glass ornaments, and especially the metal hooks, tinsel, pinecones and light strands out of pets’ reach.

Floral centerpieces are pretty, but some may contain toxic plants best avoided. Familiarize yourself with those plants toxic to dogs and cats.

Some popular fall plants often included in centerpieces this time of year, toxic to dogs and cats:
Autumn crocus
Chrysanthemum
Acorns from oak trees.

If you suspect your pet has consuemd anything poisonous, keep your veterinarian’s number handy, or Poison control . The ASPCA 24 hour hotline is 888-426-4435.

Prepare for guests, secure the perimeter…’
I know that my dog gets excited when there are multiple guests. I often give her an over the counter herbal sedative to keep her calm. Zylkene works for 24 hours, and Bach’s Rescue Remedy is a tincture. I use both of them as needed, and recommend them for my cat and dog patients. And plug in a Feliway cat pheromone relaxing diffuser a few days before, just to take the edge off the excitement of the day for your often reluctant feline hosts.

Make sure your pets have ID of some form on them. A collar, or microchip are important, in case they escape and run off as guests arrive and leave. Consider a gated area to confine them to if they become easily overwhelmed, or a separate room if, say, your cat just does not enjoy the volume and chaos that some get togethers can be.
Keep guest bags, purses, etc, high on hooks or in a room of their own, where curious pets cannot get into them. Prescription medicines, sugar free gum, and candy can lurk in bags, and be absconded by your pet. You may not even be made aware of it until the next day, when an aunt phones to say her medication went missing, and it is too late to induce vomiting.

All said, after some simple precautions, I hope you all enjoy a safe, happy, healthy Thanksgiving.

Dr. Dawn

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Halloween is a fun holiday… for many of us. But it is not always fun or safe to involve your pets in all the festivities surrounding this day.
There are many pets that enjoy the excitement of people visiting their home in droves, and wearing a costume, being photographed in it, etc. BUT, the majority of pets, dread this holiday. Or, their veterinarians dread it, because people like me are consulted to deal with the fallout.
I am hoping to give you tips on things that  can go wrong, and how to prevent them.

Costumes

While our pets, and usually this applies to dogs, love to make us happy, man’s best friend may not actually enjoy being dressed up in a movement restricting costume. Cats as well, although they are better at expressing their discontent than dogs, who will go along with your photo shoots and instagram posts, to a fault.

Before the big day, think twice about a costume purchase. If you want to dress your pet for some quick photos, then retire the ensemble, that’s fine. If your pet hates it, skip it. If you do purchase an adorable costume, make sure it does not have removable parts that can be ingested, and pose as obstructions.

Let your pet smell and investigate the outfit days before he wears it. Assure it is comfortable and they can breathe well while wearing it. They may be afraid of it. This goes for your outfit as well. Masks in particular can frighten a pet and result in fear aggression, which may be directed at trick-or-treaters as well. Give them treats as you train them to associate the outfit as something positive.

If strangers and doorbells set off your pet….
this is not a holiday they will enjoy. Each year, my dog is sedated with a mild, over the counter, herbal remedy, with some CBD, on the big day. Zylkene and Bach’s Rescue Remedy are two of my favorites.  If able, I sequester her to another level, or at least a different room in the home with a baby gate, to prevent her from charging the door and barking at those who arrive… endlessly in her eyes. Removing pets from the situation, with a TV or radio on is a great idea. Even better, if able, is to take them out of the house.

Also, you may turn off your doorbell altogether, or station someone on your front porch to greet costumed visitors, without a knock at the door. Plus, all that opening of the door, with perceived scary people, can set off a pet to escape into the dark night, where they can get lost, injured, and you will be dealing with the stress thereafter, for a while.

Cats are good at hiding stress, of say, repeated doorbell rings, and then it emerges in another form, as illness, a few days or weeks later. Feliway is a product that you can plug into a room, where your kitty is secluded. It releases a pheromone that helps relax cats. Soft music, treat filled toys are lovely distractions.

If your cat is an indoor/outdoor kitty, bring him inside that night. They may run away from all the excess activity, and become disoriented in the dark.

Candy,….
The risks to pets of candy ingestion are not limited to the day of distribution. Many of my patients find the bags of candy well before Halloween, or days to weeks after, and become ill. Wrappers can be consumed and cause obstructions as well as chocolate, or xylitol (artificial sweetener in some candy), both of which are toxic to dogs. Raisins are a common poisonous ingredient as well. Pets will seek out candy in pantries, under beds after the big day.
Keep the ASPCA 24 hour poison control hotline handy: 888-426-4435.

Pumpkins
While eating small amounts of pumpkin can be good for pets, too much of a good thing can cause gastrointestinal problems.
The pumpkins themselves, and particularly jack-o-lanterns lit with candles, are a hazard. They can get burned, or tails can knock them off counters, etc, acting as a fire hazard. Consider battery operated pumpkin lights, or none at all. Battery ingestion can be dangerous as well. Keep them out of reach of pets.
And, rotten pumpkins should be discarded, as they harbor bad bacteria if eaten.

Other dangerous decorations
such as rubber eyeballs, can cause obstructions if eaten. Fake spiders can cause stress.
Fake cobwebs can choke or entangle pets or wildlife.
Potpourri is toxic to birds,
String lights can cause electrocution or injury if chewed.

If you have the unicorn pet that enjoys trick or treating with you…
Make sure you have taken her for a long walk earlier in the day. She will be calmer and deal with all the revelers better.

Beware of glow sticks, which pets can ingest if found on the ground. The chemicals in them are toxic.
On that note, consider that you are walking in the dark where very often candy has been dropped on the ground. You will be distracted, and even a flashlight to guide you will not be sufficient to stop a dog from swallowing a small candy bar quicker than you can say Goblin.

I recommend accustom your pet to a plastic cage muzzle or nylon one… weeks before the big day. Maybe incorporate it into a costume (think Hannibal Lecter)?
They can drink and breathe, but not open wide and chew. Properly sized muzzles based on your pet’s weight should fit comfortably, and they can get accustomed to them with a bit of training.

I hope that you, and your pets, have a happy, stress-free, vet visit-free Halloween this year, and for years to come.

Dr. Dawn

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Pet Breath Fresheners

While brushing pets’ teeth is the gold standard of keeping their teeth healthy, there are foods you can feed them to help with their teeth and breath. But before we get into that, lets talk about some products you can use that will also help with dental health and odor. And some to avoid….

Brushing also keeps odor away, as plaque build-up brings with it odor. And healthy teeth are less likely to become diseased, an abscessed, which has an odor. Gum health is important, and smells better.

There are some sprays and breath fresheners on the market. Some are better than others.

BEWARE of products that contain XYLITOL. Dogs can develop life threatening low levels of blood sugar. While there is a product called Breathalyzer, by Imrex, lists a safe dose by weight on their label, it is a small margin of error and not worth the risk in my opinion.

There was a recent article written by NBC news, listing results of a veterinary poll that named their 7 recommended dog chews, and why. I agree with most.

https://www.nbcnews.com/select/shopping/best-dog-dental-chews-ncna1299919

Greenies were rated best overall. I have used them for my dogs for years. They have X shaped ridges, which scrape away plaque to the gumline, and thus prevents odor. Again, the mechanical removal of plaque is key, and they do not mask the odor, but intend to rid of it. Greenies mainly contain minerals, vitamins, glycerin and wheat flour.

Pedigree Dentastix was selected as second place, for budget. They also have X shaped ridges, and work mechanically.

OraVet Hygeine Dental Chews came in third, and were considered a “splurge” item. They do help and I use them for my dogs. They are used once daily and reduce gingivitis, while forming a protective shield to the teeth.

Some other listed products made the list. One I have also used and recommended for years is the Virbac CET Veggiedent FR3SH Tartar Control Chews.

There are some other products not listed, which I have seen help patients.

Bark Bite is a dental chew, which also comes with a toothpaste, intended to be put in the grooves of the chew.

Breath Bites, by Pet Naturals Company, is a product I like.  They contain chlorophyll from spirulina origin, parsley and yucca. Chlorophyll deodorizes and has a detoxifying effect. The yucca extract reduces odors by altering production of hydrogen sulfide in the gut (thing stinky, rotten egg scent.)

There is a prescription diet you can ask your vet about, called T/D, by Hills, which stands for tooth diet. It is available in two sizes of kibble for dogs, as well as a cat size. It helps prevent tartar build up, to be used in conjunction with brushing.

Some people claim probiotics help with fresh breath, but the verdict is still out.

In terms of diet and natural treats, there are a few things you can feed them to help prevent bad breath.

Carrots

Chewing carrots can help prevent plaque collection. The beta-carotene and vitamins they contain are also a good way to maintain good health.

Parsley

Rich in vitamin A and C, folic acid and antioxidants, parsley is another natural breath freshener. Sprinkle some chopped up parsley over our dog’s meal, or add it to a batch of homemade bones.

Coconut oil

This oil has antibacterial properties which not only helps with dog breath, but their skin and bones as well. It also helps with digestion and the immune system. Pour a teaspoon over your dog’s food nightly.

Brown Rice

Brown rice aids in digestion because it is high in fiber. If you make homemade dog food, it is a good base. It is also loaded with powerful antioxidants.

I hope you find the information helpful. And remember…. Brushing is Best! These are just supplemental ideas.

Dr. Dawn

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Kong toys have been on the market for decades. There is a vast array of options, from thick rubber stuffable chew treats to balls and pull toys, all thick and helpful for teething.
Specifically, the appropriately sized Kong chewable rubber toy that can be stuffed with food is a great way to entertain bored dogs, help them teeth in a non-destructive way, and is a supplement to training and playing with dogs that I have been recommending to clients for decades.
Here I discuss those Kong products and go into more detail about why I like them.

Benefits:
As a veterinarian and long-time Labrador pet parent, I depended on Kongs to entertain my dogs, who loved to chew and get into trouble when I was not around. They are mentally and physically stimulating, and offer teething pups an acceptable reason to chew. I love that they learn to entertain themselves. It is especially helpful to dogs who have generalized or separation anxiety, distracting them for 20 minutes to an hour. Kongs can be filled with their regular food, helping slow down their meal time. While not a substitute for brushing teeth, it can help prevent periodontal disease. I also recommend smearing dog appropriate toothpaste on the outside for this purpose.

Safety tips:
I recommend you assess your dog’s degree of chewing, and use with supervision initially. If your dog has a very powerful jaw and breaks down pieces, even of the thickest black version, then it is not right for your dog. Pieces can break off, be swallowed and potentially cause obstructions, necessitating surgical removal. But for most others, it has earned the endorsement of veterinary dentists, because it is not considered too hard for dog teeth, that can become cracked with certain very hard treats and bones. Consider the Knee-Cap rule: If you would not want to be hit in the kneecap with something, it is too hard for your dog to chew on.

Also, there have been reports of dogs getting their tongue stuck in the Kong due to suction and a vacuum effect, while avidly licking to reach stuffed treats. The second, small hole at the end is designed to avoid this. To avoid it, push a straw through the Kong, in one hole and out the other, before freezing it. Remove the straw when ready to give the Kong to your dog.

They come in several sizes and degrees of firmness. I generally recommend to select the largest size your dog’s jaw will tolerate, or even erring on the next larger size up than that listed on their chart. They are available as light blue and pink ones which are softer, smaller ones for puppies, red ones for the average chewer, black for the toughest rubber and power chewers, and softer purple ones for older dogs.

The following charts help you choose the appropriate size and type for your dog. Age and weight play a big role in the selection.

They also have a breed guide chart:

Recipes:
Most dogs will get bored with any toy, so rotating types of toys is helpful. Kongs are great because you can fill them with treats and kibble, which makes them appealing to dogs of all ages. The company sells several inserts in flavors such as peanut butter, bacon and cheese, and liver. I prefer to fill them with my dog’s own softened kibble, canned food, and other foods. If you plug up the large hole on the end with a soft cheese or peanut butter, there are a multitude of stuffing options. My favorites: softened sweet potatoes, green beans, berries, baby food, scrambled eggs, sardines, ground meat (chicken, beef, etc.)

A favorite (sweet) recipe my dogs adore: I combine cream cheese with blueberries, stuffing the toy and sealing with cream cheese or peanut butter. Your pet may prefer cottage cheese and strawberries, or mashed bananas, mixed with the berries. I personally find the thickness of cream cheese makes a better “plug” than cottage cheese. Try variations.

Another favorite (savory) recipe: Scrambled eggs (1 part), combined with 2 parts softened kibble or canned food, and some cheese sprinkled for taste, melted in the microwave and stuffed into the Kong. You may also melt it, once stuffed, in the microwave, then cooled before giving to the dog. I prefer to add the food to the Kong after heating, to extend the life of the rubber.

The most useful way I have found to use a Kong is to entertain a dog working hard and long at eating a frozen stuffed Kong. All of the above options and recipes work frozen, for 20 minutes or more before serving.

Rinse with warm water and dish soap. If you have dried or stuck food, soak the Kong first. Baby bottle brushes or old toothbrushes work well to access all the nooks and crannies.
Clean after each use, rinse well. Avoid boiling, which can wear down the rubber quicker. You can put them in the dishwasher on the top rack, but again, the high heat may accelerate the breakdown of the rubber.
Discard if the Kong starts to break down, seems sticky, or has oil leech out, or if it cracks and separates or pieces are missing. If well cared for, a regularly used Kong may last for 7-8 years.

Dr. Dawn

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