Mark Horrell's Blog

July 29, 2026

Following in Tilman’s footsteps: my own ascent of Lhakpa Ri

This is the second of two posts about Lhakpa Ri, a mountain in Tibet first climbed by Bill Tilman and Edmund Wigram in 1935. In the first post I described that historic ascent. This second post features an excerpt from my diary describing my own ascent of Lhakpa Ri 72 years later.

I climbed Lhakpa Ri on 11 May 2007 as part of a commercial expedition by UK mountaineering operator Jagged Globe. The leader of that trip was an Australian mountain guide called Mic Rofe, who also led us up to the Nort...

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Published on July 29, 2026 08:34

July 15, 2026

Tilman and Wigram’s first ascent of ‘Gardefui’, now known as Lhakpa Ri

I’ve recently finished reading Mount Everest the Reconnaissance 1935 by Tony Astill about – it’s going to be hard to say this without teaching your grandmother how to suck eggs – the 1935 Mount Everest Reconnaissance expedition led by Eric Shipton.

The book is subtitled The Forgotten Adventure, possibly because not much has been written about it. The expedition is partly famous for what they didn’t do, which was to reconnoitre Mount Everest (or not). Unexpectedly, the British Mount Everest Commi...

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Published on July 15, 2026 08:38

July 1, 2026

How to solve the problem of queuing for a summit photo on popular peaks like Snowdon / Yr Wyddfa

I only bring you the really important stories here on the Footsteps on the Mountain blog, and here’s one that will have you choking on your Kendal Mint Cake. 

The Everest season is now over, as are the usual regurgitated stories about traffic jams on the south-east ridge. It seems like a good time to report on what is, in my opinion, a far more heinous example of queuing on mountaintops that has emerged in recent years.

A line of 70 clinically insane people queuing for a summit photo on top of Pen y Fan A line of 70 clinically insane people queuing for a summit photo on top of P...
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Published on July 01, 2026 08:38

June 17, 2026

Fastest known times on Everest: how much oxygen is allowed?

Arguably the most notable event on Everest this year was the American climber Tyler Andrews claiming a fastest known time (also known, somewhat appropriately, as a FKT) for an oxygen-supported ascent from Everest Base Camp on the south side to the summit.

It was his sixth attempt to claim a FKT on Everest. His previous attempts have been on the much harder north side, but he diverted to the south side this time after China closed access from the north. He used supplementary oxygen from Camp 2, a...

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Published on June 17, 2026 08:39

June 3, 2026

Bagging all 13 historic county tops in Wales

About four years ago, Edita and I thought that it might be a nice way to pass the time if we started ticking off the highest point in each of the UK’s counties (a list known as the ‘county tops’). This has led to some enthralling visits to roadsides, electricity pylons, sewage farms and junkyards. But it has also led to some quite enjoyable hikes up obscure hills we wouldn’t otherwise have visited.

A couple of weeks ago, we finished bagging all thirteen of the historic county tops in Wales. The ...

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Published on June 03, 2026 08:35

May 20, 2026

Does The Skirrid mountain in Wales look like a pair of buttocks?

‘What does it look like?’ the blind man asked.

‘It looks like…’

His sighted companion paused, searching for a comparison.

‘Er… buttocks.’

‘Then I’m surprised they didn’t call it the Devil’s Bike Rest,’ quipped the blind man.

The blind man was Chris McCausland, the comedian who has become better known as a celebrity dancer after winning a TV dancing contest.

The other man was Alexander Armstrong, presenter of the TV show Perfect Pub Walks, where middle-aged men go on a summer walk somewhere in th...

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Published on May 20, 2026 08:33

May 6, 2026

My video of our ascent of Pico Duarte, highest mountain in the Caribbean

Sometimes you’ve just got to go with the flow and see where it leads. For Edita it led to Haiti in the Caribbean, where she has been carrying out humanitarian work for the last year.

Haiti isn’t a very sensible place to go climbing mountains, but as luck would have it, it shares the island of Hispaniola with the Dominican Republic, a much safer country that happens to be home to the highest three mountains in the Caribbean: Pico Duarte (3,101m), La Pelona (3,095m) and La Rusilla (3,044m).

Until ...

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Published on May 06, 2026 08:39

April 22, 2026

Fawrnicating in North Wales: Arenig Fawr from the north side

When I stood atop Aran Benllyn in southern Snowdonia back in February, snow cover on the mountaintops caused several nearby massifs to stand out. To the west, rugged Cadair Idris and the elongated Rhinogs spanned the horizon, and to the west the gentle curves of the Berwyns painted a white ribbon across the lowlands. Even the more distant Snowdon massif on the northern horizon drew attention by rising into the clouds.

One range between myself and Snowdon, however, was less distinct – so much so ...

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Published on April 22, 2026 08:30

April 8, 2026

The Welsh Fab Four: Rhinog Fawr and the Rhinogs from Graigddu-Isaf

Let’s start by explaining the amazing pun in the title of this post, or some of you who have tuned in hoping to hear With a Little Help from My Friends sung by a male voice choir might end up disappointed.

‘Fawr’ as many of you know, is the Welsh word for ‘Big’. Hill walkers will be well familiar with it; many Welsh mountains come in pairs, with a Fawr (big) and a Fach (little). The Rhinog Hills, a coastal range in southern Snowdonia, has two such peaks and four main peaks in total. This trip re...

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Published on April 08, 2026 08:33

March 25, 2026

The two great American kiss-and-tell K2 mountaineering books

“In the mountaineering literature of the 1970s, bruised feelings and simmering resentments were beginning to replace frostbite and hypoxia as the signature ailments of high-altitude mountaineering.” Maurice Isserman and Stewart Weaver, Fallen Giants

In the early 1970s, the slopes of K2 were still relatively untouched. Since the first attempt by a British team in 1902, the number of expeditions to climb it could still be counted on fingers and toes, and only two men, Achille Compagnoni and Lino...

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Published on March 25, 2026 09:37