Zahid H. Javali's Blog: Diary of Z
February 6, 2025
Simplifying Decisions for Small Businesses and Skilled Professionals
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May 27, 2021
Go gadget shopping this summer!
DOOR LOCKS
Yale YDME 50 Digital
Rs 9475, Buy it on Amazon

Yale is just what the security professional ordered. This zinc alloy marvel in chrome finish relies on four AA batteries to secure your home and office. You can lock using RF card, pin code, or a mechanical key, in case of emergencies. This nifty device can also store and recognise data of 30 RF cards and 78 pin code users. If the lock runs out of juice, it will alert you with an alarm sound and LED lights. To ensure safety and convenience, the lever handle enables automatic locking from the inside. This is a must-buy for apartment dwellers. One note, though: The lock works for doors with thickness ranging from 35mm to 55mm.
STORAGE DRIVES
Samsung T7 Touch Portable SSD
Rs 10,392, Buy it on Amazon

The latest and greatest from Samsung is this privacy-focussed 500GB portable solid state drive (SSD). Compared to the hard disk drive (HDD) that comes standard with every operating system, the SSD is claimed to be 9.6-times faster than HDD. This particular edition (MU-PC500K/WW) scores in its embedded fingerprint and password security feature (AES 256-bit encryption). You can safely move around with the T7 as it is also shock-resistant (no moving parts unlike HDD). Sporting the faster USB 3.2, the nifty tool can read up to 1050 mbps and write up to 1000 mbps. As 4K footage is increasingly being captured, the demand for memory and quick transfer has never been more acute. This palm-sized 56-gram beauty is perfect for content creators, photographers, gamers, and anyone who uses a PC or smartphone to do any memory-intensive work. No wonder, the T7 was an honoree at the CES 2020 Innovation Awards. If you feel 500GB is too less for your needs, you have the option of picking up a 1TB or 2TB variant. And if you own the T5, this is doubly faster as SATA has given way to the NVM Express technology found in midrange and high-end laptops. Time for an upgrade if you have the need for more speed. While the device (available in black and silver) is claimed to be safe from falls of up to six-feet, you get the additional three-year limited warranty to boot. The T7 works seamlessly with PC, Mac, Android devices, and gaming consoles. Now you know why Samsung is the world’s number one flash memory since 2003. Sweet, sweet innovation. Cloud drives can be unpredictable and unsafe. Stick with a physical drive any day.
IRON BOXES
Rossmann Handheld Portable Garment Steamer (1500 watts)
Rs 2,649, Buy it on Amazon here

Compact, portable, and the size of an iPad, the Rossmann is a great accessory to have on-the-go, and at home. Perfect for hang drying or flat ironing (horizontal), the device gets hot within 25 seconds, and switches off automatically if it’s too hot or the water level is abysmal to avoid accidents. With a 300-ml water tank (distilled or RO water only), you can remove wrinkles on your clothes that are just off the washing machine. Use the steamer on any fabric. For thick garments, the extra brush will do the deed. You get a glove for added safety. Iron away.
AIR PURIFIERS
Philips AC 1215/20 Portable Room Air Purifier
Rs 9799, Buy it on Amazon here

You might have forgotten air purifiers, but they actually work well during COVID-19. They are known to not only clean the air of allergens, dust, mold, and smoke, but also remove airborne viruses in tiny suspended droplets. Such purifiers are perfect to remove the COVID-19 viruses too as they tend to linger in the air for hours before they settle on surfaces. The device from the Netherlands goes a step further than the others by offering an additional HEPA layer to remove 99.97% PM 2.5 (particulate matter), H1N1 virus and ultrafine particles that can weaken your respiratory system. The four-stage filtration process removes house dust mites and pollen to prevent you from allergy attacks. The company also offers 2+3 years of extended warranty if you register your product online. With a capacity to purify up to 333 sq. ft of space, expect disinfection of a 200 sq. ft room in 12 minutes. The machine offers real-time monitoring of air quality through its color-coded circular ring that turns blue when all is fine, but switches to red if the interiors are heavily polluted. The lights are less intense and the sound is feeble enough for you to have a sound sleep. The gadget is also independently tested to be 100% ozone-free. With a child-lock functionality, you can also prevent any accidental setting changes. Importantly, this 6.68kg device switches to the night mode automatically in case you forget. Smart.
ROUTERS
TP-Link Wi-Fi 6 Router AX1800
Rs 6299, Buy it on Amazon here

With almost everyone working from home, there can be enough bandwidth congestion to ruin your day, particularly if your significant other is streaming 4K on Netflix, and your kid is on a video Zoom call with 50 of their classmates. This is where upgrading to a Wi-Fi 6 router should help and also future-proof you. It is 30–40 percent faster than Wi-Fi 5, because it is much akin to adding new lanes to decongest Internet traffic. To make the most of these routers, you also need to have Wi-Fi 6 compatible laptops and smartphones. iPhone 11 is Wi-Fi 6 compatible, and so are all the 10th generation Intel core processors. Therefore, this dual-band router will max out at 1201 Mbps on 5 GHz band (802.11ax) and 574 Mbps (802.11ax) on 2.4 Ghz. No more buffering while gaming, downloading or streaming as you can get Wi-Fi speeds of up to 1.8 Gbps. Welcome to the gigabit club.
SMART DISPLAYS
Echo Show 5
Rs 4,999, Buy it on Amazon here

Imagine a 5.5-inch monitor that sits on your tabletop or kitchen counter, and takes orders. That’s the Echo Show 5 for you, weighing all of 410 grams. The magic word is ‘Alexa’, and the rest of your words will be heard and immediately actioned. You can ask the device to play your favourite songs or movies from a streaming service, or ask to see the feed from the Wi-Fi cameras monitoring your kids room. It’s a smart display with a camera that allows you make video calls to people who also have the Alexa app or Skype installed on their devices. If your home is host to other smart devices, you can also control the geysers, AC or bulbs in your house through the Echo Show 5. This voice-enabled device makes your entire day ultra convenient. You can wake up and ask Alexa to read the day’s top headlines or play your favourite song, or remind you of your day’s ‘to-do’ list. It will be the Jeeves you were looking for but didn’t know where to find. Fret no more. Now you can dim the lights, pay your utility bills through Amazon Pay, check in on your aged parents or young kids (through smart cameras), or switch on the geyser or AC with just your voice. Don’t worry about privacy either. You can disable the camera (1MP) and microphone when you are not using it; the camera shutter can physically cover the lens too. If you prefer a larger screen real estate, you can go for an 8-inch (Rs 9,999) or a 10.1-inch Echo Show (Rs 16,999). The future is now, where are you?
TELEVISIONS
Sony Bravia 65X8000H
Rs 1,19,990, Buy it on Amazon here

In the era of COVID-19, there is nothing quite like some good old couch potato pastime: television watching. Sony’s Japanese technology of superior High Definition Range (HDR) visual reproduction makes the pictures more vivid and rich in detail. Thanks to its ultra-new 4K X1 processor, you get to see life-like colour and contrast with a picture quality that is two-times better than the full HD televisions ruling the marquee. Even better is the Bravia’s ability to upscale 2k videos to 4k with its X-Reality Pro technology. This 65-incher 4K HDR TV boasts of Dolby Vision for cinematic imageries, with a screen refresh rate of 50hz that is perfect for general viewing and low on energy consumption. Besides, the Bravia has four HDMI ports, two USB slots, and 20-watt speakers with Dolby Atmos. The TV is available in lower and higher screen sizes… take your pick.
ACTION CAMERAS
GoPro Hero8 Black
₹ 30,100, Buy it on Amazon here

GoPro is making videography more immersive, so you can come back to treasure your visits to beachfronts, road trips, and other sojourns. Selfies are best taken with this 12MP action camera. Just use your voice to turn on the camera or start recording. You can go down 33 feet, and still come back with a rugged camera that knows how to survive it in the rough. Forget 1080p, 1440p, and start recording in 2.7K and 4K. Not just HDR but also night lapse videos. The LiveBurst features helps you capture the perfect image from the 90 visuals you’ve taken. The hyper smooth functionality of this gadget is game-changing — it levels the horizon within the app. You can even choose the kind of images you need as there are four lenses helping to capture the most optimal view: narrow, super view, linear or wide. The biggest advantage of a GoPro device is its modular design that allows you to attach extra lights, mics, and so on. After capturing everything for posterity on its 32GB memory, you can use the GoPro app to edit and share on social media. If you are looking for hyper smooth image, video, and sound quality, Hero8 is at your service.
E-READERS
Amazon Kindle Oasis
₹ 21,999, Buy it on Amazon here

Oasis is the only waterproof e-reader in the market that oozes class. On a seven-inch screen, you get to read 30 percent more stuff than the average six-screen readers. With 300 pixels per inch, the dark text mimics the inky clarity of a paperback. Ultrathin at 3.4mm, the aluminum back and lightweight avatar is available in 8GB (Rs 21,999) and 32GB (Rs 24,999). You can read eight-times more books from its previous generation, giving you more reason to treasure this lifelong companion. You can either press the buttons to turn the page or just touch the screen. Importantly, you don’t have to keep toggling the brightness setting, as its adaptive front light will do it for you. The more expensive model also comes with free 3G for automatic firmware updates wherever you are. Choose from innumerable fonts to customise your reading experience; Bookerly is my favourite. The biggest benefit of a Kindle is that you are insulated from social media. What’s even better? You can read an eBook in the bathtub or a swimming pool as Oasis is soggy-proof. Immerse yourself to beat COVID-19!
GAMING CONSOLES
PS4 Pro 1TB
₹ 29,990, Buy it on Amazon here

4K-TV is the future, and the future is now with PS4 Pro. Enter the world of Avatar and enjoy super-clear visuals and jaw-dropping immersive experiences on your 4K TV. The best games that will make this scenario come alive on PS4’s 1TB machine include Spider-man, GT Sport and Ratchet & Clank. If you are a video game nerd, Play Station brings surreal images to life with HDR technology that generates vibrancy you’ve never seen before in video games. When you are done with gaming, you can stream 4K videos, movies and TV shows as your PS4 doubles as a streaming device. If you have non-4K games, the gadget ramps up the resolution to near-4K. Some PS4 Pro enhanced games include Resident Evil 2, Assassins Creed: Odyssey, Kingdom Hearts 3, and Spider-Man. Game on.
SMARTBULBS
Philips Hue
Rs 2,649 onwards, Buy it on Amazon here

Among all the smart bulbs, Philips has the costliest of them, but not without reason. They have the widest range to suit the most finicky amongst us. For the strictly illumination-seeking user, they have white and white ambiance bulbs whose brightness, from warm to cool, can be controlled by Philips’ phone app. Having a life of 25,000 hours, this 10-watt LED bulb has the brightness equivalent to a traditional 60-watt light. If you are adventurous, the white and color ambiance can help you experience 16 million colors to suit your many moods. Philips Hue transforms the indoors and your frame of mind. Perfect to combat the ‘stay safe stay indoors’ mantra of corona times.
MUSIC SMARTWATCHES
Garmin Forerunner 245
Rs 28,990, Buy it on Amazon here

If your workouts are not complete without music, this musical smartwatch is just right for you, as it syncs with music-streaming services like Spotify, Gaana, and Amazon Music, to play your favourite songs. It can even store 500 songs on its hard disk for offline listening as well. Made of rubber, it might appear cheap but the reason is to make it lighter and easy to wear. No wonder, this fitness watch has stood the test of time in its every iteration. With fibre-reinforced material in its bezels, it offers free fitness sessions and acts as your personal coach through the Garmin Connect phone app. You can create workouts galore, and the smartwatch will assess your training to check if you are under-training or going overboard. If you are worried about safety, the smartwatch sends your coordinates to your emergency contacts in case of an accident or injury while running or jogging. This gadget is perfect if you are preparing for a marathon as its coach training plans will fill the gap of a teacher. With metrics like cadence, ground contact time, and stride length, you will understand your running dynamics as you get more comfortable with your forerunner. The smartwatch is waterproof by up to 50 meters, which means you can take it to a swimming pool, but not on deep diving expeditions. The minus point? The smartwatch can only last for a day with GPS, and up to a week without it.
GPS KEY/PHONE FINDERS
Tile Mate
Rs 3299, Buy it on Amazon here

Here is a tracker that alerts you if the luggage, key, or phone is beyond the perimeter set by you. And you can set the perimeter by up to 200 feet. Half the size of a credit card, the Tile Mate is a Bluetooth finder you cannot do without. Store it in your keychain or attach it to your luggage, and trace your belongings with its phone app. Or if you lose your phone instead, double press the Tile Mat to let your phone ring, even if it’s in silent mode. Weighing under 5 grams, it’s powered by one lithium battery that lasts a year. The only minus point is the additional expense of a subscription if you want the tracker to alert you if the object moves way from its Bluetooth range. If the tile has gone beyond its boundary, you can see its last recorded location on a map before it went out of range.
THERMOMETERS
Dr Trust Forehead Ear Infrared Thermometer
Rs 1,999, Buy it on Amazon here

With Corona grabbing the headlines every minute, here is a gadget that will measure your temperature in a second. Yes, it’s fast. Just swipe the probe across your forehead or insert it into the ear canal, and you can read the level of the mercury in a jiffy. In ‘baby mode’, it’s perfect for a sleeping toddler you don’t want to disturb. The best part is that you don’t have to insert the probe into your mouth or uncomfortably place it under your armpit for over a minute and wait for the beep. No such waiting game anymore as the results are now laser-sharp and instant. With a large LCD screen and backlight to assist you in the dark, this sensor can store 35 records and is just the Jeeves you need to keep the lingering doubts of Covid away. If the device shows that you have fever, and you also suffer from dry cough and breathlessness, it’s time to call the 24/7 helpline at 011–23978046 for the next steps.
SAFES
AmazonBasics Portable Security Safe Box with Combination Lock
Rs 1,999, Buy it on Amazon here

With this nifty device, you don’t have to worry about the lightning-quick thieves who snatch your valuables at traffic signals or distract you and make away with your laptop, jewellery and cash. This safe box is heavy at 1.36 kilos and tied to your chair. The zinc alloy combination lock is providing the additional protection you need. It is a rectangular suitcase that can guard your jewellery, cash, and important documents. With a rugged steel shell, it’s pry-proof against an opportunistic thief. With a 1700-pound steel cable, the case cannot be stolen without a wire cutter. Perfect for those long road trips where you don’t have to worry about your valuables, as you can rest your case under the seat and secure it with the cable. This can also snugly occupy the confines of your home, office or luggage. If you are looking for a compact safe, this is right up your alley.
SMARTPHONE PRINTERS
Fujifilm Instax Share SP-3
Rs 12,830, Buy it on Amazon here

The Fujifilm Instax Share SP-3 takes only ten seconds to print a photo from your smartphone/Instagram/Facebook accounts with the Share app through Wi-Fi. Pick between black and white, and revel in 320 DPI goodness, perfect for portraits and capturing details. The auto filter will ensure a Photoshop-worthy experience. Complementing this is a suite of templates for every occasion. For example, the ‘real time template’ offers you unique pictures as it prints the name, place, date, temperature, and humidity. As you cannot replicate this template, the picture that you print through this will remain the only one on the planet. Perfect way of gifting ‘exclusive’ memories to friends and relatives.
(Originally published in Provoke magazine)
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March 2, 2018
The City of the Future
Bangalore is a city that’s cool and colourful in more ways than one, with a distinctly international vibe.
Home to the largest concentration of expatriates in any Indian city, this is indeed the “united colours of Bangalore”. Multitudes of skin colours, facial features, styles of dressing, languages – it’s all here, in this city of all play and all work.
What makes this place so appealing? For starters, its culture of acceptance and welcoming weather. Even if it’s the peak of summer, cool breeze is ensured because of its location at 919m above sea level.
It’s a place where you feel cut off from India and yet a part of it. If the central business district (MG Road and neighbouring areas) is westernised – Pizza Hut, KFC, Google, Yahoo, Standard Chartered, Citibank – the bustling local business district of KG Road stands for all things Indian – a thriving Kannada film industry called Sandalwood, a line of middle class businesses, wholesale merchants and middle class homes. It’s this feeling of attachment and detachment that keeps you company throughout your stay in Bangalore. It is no wonder that many who came as visitors have made it their home.
The city allows you to time-travel. At one end, you have thousand-year-old heritage buildings on Resthouse Road, and at the other, towering glass structures like Intel’s on Airport Road that seem to reach out to the heavens. If one is a celebration of all things British – monkey top window roofs (to prevent monkeys sitting on them), sweeping driveways, pubs, bungalows and English street names (Prince Street, Langford Town, Charles Campbell Road), the other is the Silicon face of Bangalore.
Located in the south-eastern part of the south Indian state of Karnataka, Bangalore is India’s third most populous city after Delhi and Mumbai. It is surrounded by the states of Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh.
With the boom in software, bio technology and business process outsourcing, nobody would have had any inkling that it was once called the ‘town of boiled beans’. Legend has it that when the Chola King Veera Ballalla ruled south India, he lost his way on a hunting trip in 1120 AD. In his desperate search for directions, he ran into an old lady in a forest who offered him shelter for the night and served him baked beans for dinner. To show his gratitude to the lady, the King is said to have built a town and named it Benda Kalooru which means ‘town of boiled beans’. Hundreds of years later, a local chieftain Kempe Gowda designed this town in 1537 and gave it its modern shape. From Benda Kalooru, it came to be known as Bengaluru. During the British rule, Bengaluru became Bangalore because they were more comfortable pronouncing it this way. Curiously enough, the city was sold for just Rs 3 lakh by Mughal emperor Aurangzeb in 1687. He sold it to the Wadiyars who ruled the adjacent Mysore at the time.
Today, this city of baked beans has emerged as the preferred choice of multi-national companies representing the entire gamut of industries, from pharmaceuticals, telecoms and apparel manufacture to IT, airlines and medical tourism.
Not too long ago, being sent to work in India was considered a ‘punishment’ posting, with a ‘hardship allowance’. Today, getting an India experience is becoming increasingly significant for foreign executives who recognise its tremendous growth potential. What’s more, Bangalore is now considered a veritable training ground for anyone who wants to make it in the world of outsourcing.
The word ‘Bangalored’ (which means, losing jobs to India due to outsourcing) is also assuming a new meaning. With Bangalore becoming the global back-office, it’s only a matter of time before it starts off-shoring consumer services like legal, nutrition and educational services.
Lost your job to outsourcing? Why not move to India and get it back? That seems to be a funny aside circulating among expats in Bangalore today. From a population of around 2000 in the 1990s, it is currently at 14,500, and is set to cross 21,000 in the next two years, according to the Foreigners Registration office.
Drop anchor at lounge bars like 13th Floor on MG Road or Taika on Church Street any evening of the week, and locals will find themselves a minority. Some popular expat hangouts include Nrityagram in Hessaraghatta (http://www.nrityagram.org), a school that showcases the seven classical Indian dance forms. One and a half hour away from the city, it has a village ambience – mud buildings, local materials and Indian architecture. Lush greens, leafy trees and vegetable gardens make your stroll all the more peaceful. For a small fee, you can tour the grounds on your own and observe all the different styles of classical Indian dance. The New York Times calls this concept ‘a modern devotion to a sacred Indian ritual’.
Nrityagram’s next door neighbour is Taj Kuteeram, a resort that showcases yoga and ayurveda. Those who want to stay the night and go on long hikes into the countryside love to call this their home for the weekend. The other expat hangouts include The Golden Palms Spa & Resort on Tumkur Road (spa resort that also includes Asia’s largest swimming pool), Embassy International Riding School in Devanahalli (governed by the rules set by the British Horse Society) and Eagleton Golf Club and Resort on the Bangalore-Mysore highway (rated as one of the top 5 Golf courses in India and, spread over 500 acres, the biggest of its kind in the region).
The truth is that Bangalore just lets you be. You don’t have to bother too much about the way you dress or be unduly concerned about what you eat – because you get all the world’s cuisines right under your nose. With coffee shops at every nook and cranny, you can even have your ‘alone time’ and indulge in people-watching.
Far from being just a city of today, Bangalore has ancestral beauties in which time stands still. First off the bat is the panoramic Vidhana Soudha, an architectural delight made of granite and porphyry in 1956, and home to the state’s political and bureaucratic activity. Then there is Lalbagh. Spread over 240 acres and laid out by then Mysore ruler Haider Ali in 1740 (Bangalore was then part of Mysore), it is famous for its annual flower shows in January and August that attract hundreds of thousands of people.
The lush Cubbon Park laid out in 1864 is home to a Glass House modelled on London’s Crystal Palace, while the Bangalore Palace was modelled on Windsor Castle, complete with fortified towers and turreted parapets. Built in 1880, it’s a major tourist attraction. And don’t miss 18th century Mysore ruler Tipu Sultan’s summer palace in KR Market. Made largely out of wood with embellished balconies, pillars and arches, it was built in 1790 and has a charm of its own even though it’s in a dilapidated state.
The best part of Bangalore is that you don’t have to leave the city to sample the world’s kitchens. The city boasts of cuisines from across the globe. If it’s Japanese, there is Harima on Residency Road (+91-080-51325757) whose clientele has grown to the point that they are sending packed lunches to corporate houses. If you are into al fresco dining, Sunny’s on Vittal Mallya Road (+91-080-41329366) is where you should be headed for Italian, French and American food, home-baked breads and an imported cheese selection. Samarkhand (+91-080-41113366) on Infantry Road serves the best kebabs and dum biriyani in town. And don’t forget to visit the only Vietnamese restaurant in town: Blue Ginger at the Taj West End on Race Course Road (+91-080-66605660). All of these have won awards, and hold out the promise of retaining their taste and trends for a long time to come.
As far as traditional cuisine goes, stop by Koshy’s on St Mark’s Road (+91-080-22213793) not only for the smileys (fried potato dish eaten with mayonnaise), appams (light rice-flour pancakes) and stimulating conversation. After all, it’s the hub of the literati and the Bangalore equivalent of The Algonquin in New York. You can expect to run into filmmakers, models, theatre persons, writers and intellectuals.
At MTR (+91-080-22220022) on Lalbagh Road, people don’t mind waiting their turn to eat a sumptuous south Indian meal for Rs 75. For a dose of old-world charm on MG Road, a good cup of coffee and scrambled eggs on toast, there’s India Coffee House on MG Road +91-080- 25587088). Not to mention Vidhyarthi Bhavan (+91-080-26677588) in Gandhi Bazaar for the best idlis (steamed rice flour cakes) and masala dosas (rice-and-grain flour pancakes) in town.
It’s this blend of the east and west that makes Bangalore so liveable, so cosmopolitan. Take pub-hopping. The city is known as a pub capital and rightly so – there are literally hundreds of pubs and bars in the city. Check out Fuga on Castle Street (+91-080-41511880) for its two-storey dance floor, Hint at Bangalore Central on Residency Road (+91-080-41123557) for its cool lounge and spacious terrace, The Polo Club in The Oberoi on MG Road (+91-080-25585858) for its alfresco bar, and i-Bar in The Park on MG Road (+91-080-25594666) for its eclectic playful music and exotic cocktails.
Bangalore is known for its silk and sarees, sandalwood, antique pieces and jewellery shops. To get your hands on these, the places to visit are MG Road, Brigade Road and Commercial Street. The Mysore Saree Udyog on Kamaraj Road (+91-080-25583255) is a popular haven besides Deepam Silk International (+91-080-25586191), Vijayalakshmi Silks & Sarees (+91-080-25587937) and Nalli Silks Arcade on MG Road (+91-080-25583178). All these stores have stuff to suit all pockets. For jewellery, nothing to beat the stores on Commercial Street which have a long history in the trade. Some of the older and more famous ones include Ganjam Nagappa & Sons on Infantry Road (+91-080- 22286137) and C Krishnaiah Chetty & Sons (+91-080-25588731) on Commercial Street. For readymade clothes and customisation, nothing to beat M Fazal & Sons (+91-080-25597986) and the narrow bylanes of Russel Market in Shivajinagar. For handicrafts, don’t miss Central Cottage Industries Emporium on MG Road (+91-080-25584083).
Comforting lounge bars, theme-based pubs, international schools, designer retail brands, eclectic coffee shops and a variety of new-age spiritual centres have transformed Bangalore into a truly global metropolis. And it is also a great launching pad for other discoveries in the neighbourhood – like the erstwhile French territory and beach town of Pondicherry or the coffee lands of Coorg, the hill station of Ooty or the land of beaches – Goa. They make for great weekend getaways as they are only an overnight journey away. If you have a week’s time to explore Bangalore’s salubrious neighbours, nothing better than hopping on to the Golden Chariot (http://www.thegoldenchariot.co.in). It’s a luxury train that takes you to heritage, wildlife and beach places around Bangalore – Mysore, Belur, Halebid, Hampi and Goa to name a few.
If you don’t have so much time, you could drive an hour and a half away from Bangalore to reach Bannerghatta National Park. Here, you can see butterflies from around the world and watch tigers and lions in their natural surroundings. At about the same distance from the city, find the picturesque waterfalls – the Gaganachukki and the Barachukki – cascading 90m down in the island town of Shivanasamudram. Some two hours from the city are the hill stations of Devarayanadurga, standing at almost 4000 feet (1,219m), and Ramohalli where you run into a 400-year-old banyan tree that’s spread over four acres.
That’s the city of the future… with many companions from the past and the immediate present to keep you company for a long time to come.
(Published in Silverkris, the inflight magazine of Singapore Airlines, 2008)
Comfortably Coorg
Staying at Tata Coffee’s plantation bungalows and living the Kodava life holds a charm all its own
Waking up to birdsong and the smell of coffee. Having a hot cup of coffee in the sprawling verandahs. Sleeping in large bedrooms made of woodwork and period furniture (rosewood and Burma teak). My stay in Coorg (anglicised version of Kodagu) was all about this and more. Cardamon and pepper trees. Tea leaves and coffee beans. I found myself passing by them all the while I was in the Woshully bungalow of Tata Coffee’s Plantation Trails.
The Scotland of India did have enough to satiate the die-hard traveller in me. Savouring the cool yet tropical weather, meeting handsome Kodava men and chancing upon beautiful Kodava women was as exciting as the daily morning nature walks along the plantation trails. Not to mention, the water bodies with their colourful birds; sometimes fighting with each other and sometimes taking flight in unison. On ground, there were a variety of spiders weaving their webs – on the ground, on the trees – and some were crawling on the ground weaving nothing. This was even while earthworms were crawling in gay abandon, punctuated with sounds of boars coming from a distance. I had the option of playing table tennis or teeing off at Tata Coffee’s nine-hole golf course, but I stuck to the rustic. Adding to the refreshing ambience were spacious, airy rooms, tiled roofs, large windows and doors, cozy fireplaces, Victorian furniture, African tribal art and craft lining up the walls and floors. It was like stepping inside a time machine and being transported back to the British times.
The food was as much a revelation. And it began with Akki Roti (rice chapathi) and Nool Puttu (rice noodles), and proceeded to soft rice cakes and aromatic coffee and tea wherever I went. It was vegetarian fare all the way since the Coorgi non-veg speciality largely lies in all things pork (pandi curry is most popular). And I stayed away from anything that ‘boars’. However, having my own personal butler and cook helped at the bungalow. Soon, he was making finger chips, chicken kebabs which I had by the bonfire in the nightly air. Around the dinner table, I settled for fish fry and fish curry on one day and mutton curry the next. However, the food at the bungalows was below par, making me explore Coorg’s capital, Madikeri. One such destination was Neel Sagar. A pure vegetarian restaurant, I opted for the North Indian thali meals and found it finger-licking good. Be it the fried rice or gravy or gulab jamun, it was aromatic and yummy all the way.
Visiting the different bungalows was an experience. Each room was different… from a sparse superior room to a more spacious luxury room to the eyeful heritage rooms and suites. And that included five bungalows and one cottage offering 27 different kinds of rooms for people to stay in relative comfort. My personal pick was the Cottabetta bungalow offering sweeping vistas from 5000 feet above sea level. I could have stayed there, but it was under renovation at the time. The Tata Coffee guys said the Arabidacool bungalow in Chikmagalur, six hours from here, was way better as the colonial red-tiled house offered panoramic vistas unrivalled by its Coorgi cousins.
Our next stop was the Glenlorna bungalow that was an hour away from Woshully. Simple yet stately, it was where Tata Coffee has 700 acres of tea plantation (the only tea plantation area in Coorg) as opposed to its 6500 acres of coffee farms in Coorg. Clean, serene and panoramic, the sloping tea plantation puts you at ease and you feel wonderful about yourself and the world around you. Picture perfect, it’s straight out of a Hindi film song.
On my way back, I saw a burly young man walk out of a wedding hall, blood dripping on his white shirt. He was lunging forward to a group of men who were getting inside a car. A fight ensued. The Kodava guide accompanying us said fights were common in Coorg. “Someone must have teased his sister or he must be nursing an old grouse. People let it out on occasions like these,” he reasoned. Match-making in Coorg happens in an interesting way, too. “We have annual hockey tournaments where families come in droves to watch or play,” said the Kodava. “Here is where prospective brides and grooms get to see each other and finally get married.” Keeping us company was the filtered light of the surrounding coffee estates and the picture perfect views.
Going through the plantation trail by jeep has its own appeal. You get to see all the nooks and crannies of this ‘managed forest’ even while the driver is giving you a walkthrough on how water bottles injected with pest repellants are hung from trees to keep the coffee bush safe. We also spotted rosewood trees, each costing Rs 25 lakh. There were a few sandalwood and teakwood trees, too.
However, the biggest threat to coffee estates is elephants who come in search of jackfruit and mangoes, and there are 9000 elephants in Coorg alone. Electric fencing is of no use. When the elephant gets a jolt, it places tree trunks over the wire for safe passage. You have to write off some of your profit. After all, the area first belonged to elephants before the humans encroached their forests and took over. Not that the humans are callous about it. There’s the Dubare Elephant Camp where they are protected, nourished and kept in great health. We went the next day by boat to reach the camp. It only takes a few minutes and can be seen from shore to shore. Here is where you can feed, bathe and ride elephants, big and small. I stuck to taking pictures of others in the act. I had ridden tuskers before.
This was also a place for white water rafting. I had come prepared for it – my first, therefore with a palpitating heart. But the season of rapids had just gotten over and I was given the option of still water rafting. I opted out and thought ultralight flying might be a better bet. And I don’t need to be a certified pilot to fly one. But my idea of taking off from a nearby paddy field didn’t click either. The machine had misbehaved a month ago and the proprietor had stopped operating it to my bad luck.
My driver decided to take me trekking instead. But this was different. He took me to the birthplace of the Cauvery river: Talacauvery. Apparently, every year on October 17th, the springs come alive in this birthplace and people come from all over to bathe in it and cleanse themselves from sin. They even drop coins wishing well for themselves in a rectangular enclosure where poojas are conducted all day. From here, there are steps leading to the top of the Brahmagiri hills. I climbed more than a hundred steps in just three stops, and woke up with muscle cramps the next day. They lasted for three days before they vanished. But the trek of sorts was worth it. On top of the hills, lush green mountains were hugging each other, and with no clouds to block the view. On one end, there were windmills lending an artistic touch and completing the picture postcard view.
Cauvery Nisargadhama was my next stop, and it didn’t disappoint me either. Walking through a hanging rope bridge, I entered a bamboo forest. Right at the end was the Cauvery river where I put my feet – it’s here that the Cauvery river splits to make way for an island. But what pleased me most stood half an hour’s drive away. I could hear the welcoming roar of water even before I reached Abbi Falls nestled among the coffee and pepper trees. A few kilometres away was Raja’s Seat that gave me a bird eye’s view of Madikeri’s matted green landscape.
What thrilled me most was the Golden Temple (Namdroling Monastery) in Bylakuppe. Three jaw-dropping gold-plated statues greeted me as I entered. These were 40-feet tall idols of Buddha, admasambhava and Amitayush. It is said that the temple is at its dramatic best when the school is in session. That’s when sounds of gongs, drums and chanting of hundreds of young novices rent the air. It’s a different world out here – Buddhist schools, temples, houses and shops dot the area over two square kilometres. Tibetan monks dressed in maroon pulling up their long dress and riding bikes was a sight to watch. Established in 1961, this Tibetan refugee settlement is home to over 50,000 people.
The transit through the Western Ghats to visit places in and around Coorg was as much the highlight of my visit – many small springs and mountain water flowed down the rocks. I saw some people taking back water in mineral water bottles and some were even seen washing themselves. Even three days was not enough – I had to miss out on Nagarhole National Park and Irpu Falls. Maybe next time.
WHERE?
Plantation Trails
Pollibetta 571215, Kodagu, Karnataka Phone: +91 (080) 2356 0761. Daily room rates for double occupancy range from Rs 5,500 to 10,500 + tax, inclusive of breakfast, guided bird watching, plantation walk and plantation drive. Sightseeing costs extra.
GETTING AROUND
Distance: 241 kms from Bangalore and six hours by road
Best time to visit: November-April
Karnataka Tourism: 080-2227-5869
Nearest airport: Mangalore
Nearest railway station: Mysore
Famous for: Arabica and Robusta coffee
FOODIE’S CORNER
Hotel Capitol, Madikeri: Forget the shabby interiors and focus on the food. Popular items include the flavourful and spicy pandhi (pork) curry, best had with a pint of cold beer.
Athithi, Madikeri: The best vegetarian option in town, Athithi is known for its lip-smacking vegetarian thali. But come here starved as it’s an elaborate affair served on banana leaves.
Shanti Family Restaurant, Bylakuppe: Inside the shopping centre bang opposite the Golden Temple is this restaurant dishing out a range of Indian delicacies and Tibetan delights like momos (dumplings) and thukpa (noodle soup).
STRAIGHT FACTS
The most popular treks in Coorg happen to be the peaks of Pushpagiri, Brahmagiri, Kotebetta and Tadiyendamol. At the bottom of Tadiyendamol is the picturesque Nalakunad Palace, the restored hunting lodge of a Kodagu king dating back to 1794. Within walking distance are several excellent places to camp.
Kodagu (old name of Coorg) was a state until 1956 when it merged with Karnataka. Local politicians, tired of seeing little financial assistance from Bangalore for infrastructure and social services, are pushing for statehood to be restored, or at least for more local autonomy.
Coffee, cardamom, pepper, orange, timber and honey known as ‘Coorg Honey’ are Kodagu’s major resources. Tea, rubber, arecanut, coconut, citrus fruits, pineapple, papaya, plantain, piggery and poultry are the other products fuelling its economy.
Tata Coffee has 19 coffee estates spread across Hassan, Chikmagalur, Coorg and Coimbatore.
(Published in ‘M’ magazine, 2011)
One city, many worlds
Check out Hampi, the world heritage site and come away mighty pleased
The charm of leaving home has always been that it transports you into new places and vivid moments; it makes you slow down and take note of your new surroundings. That is what Hampi offers – a home completely away from home; a lifestyle that is unlike any other, and an architecture that is as much appealing as it is priceless. But most of all, it’s a fulfilling journey, both physically and spiritually.
Travellers want authenticity in foreign lands. But hasn’t this search become a fool’s errand? It is better to be a travel writer without illusions. And this happens almost automatically as soon as you enter the erstwhile kingdom of Vijaynagara empire. It’s a city within a city, a city of ruins, a city of stones and pillars that showcase craftsmanship and years of hard work weaned away due to neglect. A world heritage site, no less.
A great contribution of the 20th century was to let the chaos and cadences of the world, the sounds of the street, into music. Hampi does exactly that. It lets you drop your self-consciousness as you travel and makes you simply accept each moment for what it is. It’s something of a spiritual exercise. Writers need to make connections and actively interpret the texture of places that can retain their distinct character even as they change rapidly. And Hampi provides enough fodder to do so. Once a great city where art and culture flourished, it is now reduced to ruins due to years of neglect. Thankfully, for the annual Hampi festival, I wouldn’t have known its many charms if I hadn’t made a conscious decision to visit it in 2008. Once I reached the gates of this city, I realised it’s one of the world’s largest open-air museums that welcome you like no other.
More than evoking images of regal splendour, Hampi humbles you. In the 15th century, it was one of the glittering showpieces of India’s cultural might, but today it has to be content being a boulder-strewn landscape that is largely neglected. Once upon a time, the city’s merchants traded in diamonds, pearls and horses, but today merchants are selling anything but those.
The once-proud city of victory is now an isolated city that only holds tourist value. Yet, travelling through Hampi and its surroundings makes you a fuller person. You respect the past, appreciate the present and hope for the best in the future. You are simultaneously humbled, rejuvenated and re-connected to the glorious past in a matchless manner.
What began as a four-day excursion took on a meaning of its own at the Hampi festival as crowds thronged the place in record numbers due to massive publicity by the state government. At last count, nearly five lakh people had come from nearby villages, towns and cities to witness this Rs 5 crore cultural extravaganza spread over three days. Thankfully, it was from November 3-5 when the nights aren’t too warm because much of the entertainment was after sunset. But if you were to maximise the many appeals of Hampi, it is best you come by when there is no festival. That way, the guest houses become more affordable, the ruins are largely people-free so you can take your pictures without much hassle and move about more freely.
One more thing. It’s not easy to soak in the sights and sounds of Hampi within a day. You need atleast three days – there are atleast 32 places to see in Hampi and 11 places around Hampi. And if you want to capture it all on film, you need atleast a fortnight because most pictures come out good only in the mornings and evenings. The light is too harsh at other times.
History has always fascinated me. Which is why Hampi was the perfect getaway. Nothing like a place where the past comes alive with whispering winds, magnificent ruins and traces of a bygone era that virtually transport you to a world of kings, battles and long forgotten marvels. To begin with, Hampi was the capital city of the Vijayanagar Empire. Founded by Harihara and Bukka in 1336, it fell to the rules of north India in 1565 after the battle of Talikota and subsequently lapsed into decline and later, abandoned. However, the ruins of its historical monuments have stood the ravages of man and time and still evoke memories of the golden past.
A historian’s find
If you are a history lover, Hampi offers reams of pages on the many beautitudes in and around Hampi. Take the King’s Palace. The moment you see the ruins of a once great palace, there is a sense of awe. If the ruins are so awe-inspiring, what could be the appeal of the real palace, you wonder. This is also the largest enclosure in the heritage city that includes an underground chamber which historians believe must have served as a treasury or a hall for private audience. This aside, there are several minor platforms and double fortification walls, making it an architect’s delight. The Mohammedan mosque constructed in true Islamic style with arches and domes and balconies, and the watch tower, transport you to a more regal era where art and culture flourished just the same way, religion did. The Elephant Stables are yet another find. Not to mention, the Lakshminarasimha statue, the 6.7 metre high monolith depicting the man-lion form of Lord Vishnu seated on a seven-hooded serpent. Next to it is the 3 metre high Badavilinga that stands permanently in water that flows through an ancient water channel. How this has stood the test of time beats me.
The Lotus Mahal or the Kamal Mahal is a great example of Hindu-Muslim unity as it combined the two architectural styles in its two-storeyed building built of mortar. Even the hottest part of summer, it’s quite cool out here, informed my guide. It could have been a rest house for queens and the nearby remains might have been the harem and a mint, say historians.
An archaeologist’s delight
The ruins of Hampi were first discovered in the 1970s by a farmer who was ploughing his field and came across a few artifacts. Since then, the Archaeological Survey of India has unveiled many architectural marvels, one of them being Pushkarni. It is a stepped water tank excavated in the 1980s that was originally a part of the palace complex. Almost lyrical in its beauty, the tank is a tiered structure crafted from rectangular pieces of granite. Just one look at this, and you feel blessed for viewing this visual spectacle.
In fact, check the lime and mortar plaster with the motif designs on any of the 500-odd ruined temples in and around Hampi and you will wonder how they remained in tact even after 450 years of abandonement. Can modern engineering achieve something like that?
Take the Vittala temple’s 56 ‘musical pillars’. Press your ear to the pillar and tap it gently to hear a sound that is distinct. What’s more, each pillar sounds differently. However, with boisterous tourists misusing the pillars more than using them, you are now barred from entering this part of the temple complex. However, if you want to experience something similar, just visit the Virupaksha temple at one end of the Hampi Bazaar. It was totally submerged under water, causing extensive damage to the roof beams, which have now been replaced. It is the oldest temple constructed in the 15th century. Dominated by its 50-metre tall gopuram, some of the temple’s pillars facing the entrance have a musical quality to them. I noticed a few students of music come in and tap the pillars. I went over to them and said, they need to go the Vittala temple for this and they said, even these have that same quality. I was amazed when I put my ear to the pillar and heard my gentle tap resonate through the column, like it was whispering sweet nothings into my ear. It was by far my most endearing moment at Hampi.
My most anxious moment was at Vittala. Every time I tried to photograph the famous Stone Chariot in isolation, a family would descend upon it for a group photo and I would be back to square one. Eventually, I had to satisfy myself with a couple of people posing against the stone marvel. Carved entirely out of stone, it depicts an elephant pulling a chariot with such superior engineering technology that the wheels actually rotate.
Spiritualist’s souk
Hampi has over 500 big and small temples around it, but the one temple that offered much solace for me and the three companions I was with was the Pattabhirama temple. It’s scarcely visited, but it’s one temple that makes you feel at peace with yourself. I lied down with my back on the floor and felt the cool afternoon air caress my every being. It’s ironic because the moment I step out of the temple and under the sun, you start sweating like never before. The difference is remarkable. Though it’s a few kilometers away from the heart of Hampi, it’s worth a visit for the serenity it offers.
All the other temples, which are architectural marvels no less, pale in comparison to the warmth offered by this temple. The only other temple that comes close to this is the Vittala temple. The architecture, the expanse, and the size of it leave you spellbound. The moment you step inside the temple complex after paying the requisite entry fee, your soul takes a leap. And mind you, I am a Muslim entering a Hindu temple, and my guide is also a Muslim. Can there be a better example of unity in religious diversity? What’s more, among my other companions was a Christian who was as much impressed by all that the temple offered, including the King’s Balance. Legend has it that wealthy kings would be weighed on a giant scale against grain or gold, which was later distributed to the poor.
Trekkers’ triumph
If Hampi was once a city of victory, it still evokes that feeling amongst rock climbing enthusiasts. The city of boulders and rocks offers many peaks that can excite the trekker in you. One such find is the Monkey Temple on Anjanadri hills. It also figures in Jackie Chan’s The Myth. While Chan took just under seven minutes to climb the 572 steps, it took me 30 minutes. This temple is a small chamber like shrine with a pyramid roof covering it. A Hanuman statue is installed inside the temple.
On the road to Kampli is another great trekking spot, the Malyavantha hill on top of which is a temple. Make sure you are in your trekking gear when you are climbing this hill. Once on top of it, you will get a bird’s eye view of this area surrounded by hills and rocky terrain. It was my most spectacular moment at Hampi. When my tourist guide said that not many come here because it’s a bit far from Hampi, I was even more happy with him for having brought us here. It was indeed a great find that remained in my memories long after the trip was over.
Picture postcard life
One-hour’s drive from Hampi takes you to the magnificent Sanapur lake that looks straight out of a picture postcard. Calm green waters with rocks and boulders strewn around, it looked like a stretch of some European country. The moment I saw this one, I fell in love with it. The sheer magnificence of it lent a certain charm to my trip to Hampi. And to think, it’s only 353 kilometres from Bangalore made me wonder that I had been missing this nature’s delight for all these years. Our next spot was the Munirabad Tunga Bhadra dam. Watch the sun set out here and you will come away marvelling it even more. And don’t forget to visit the garden at the foot of the dam. It’s small, but quite pleasing to the eye. On the other side of the dam is another garden, this time modelled on the Japanese.
Nature lover’s haunt
The lovely Mango Tree restaurant, a kilometer away from Virupaksha temple, is perfect for nature freaks. Facing the spectacular Tungabhadra river, the open air restaurant offers seating on straw chatai placed on granite slabs pleasantly spread across multiple levels like steps in an amphitheater that eventually descend down to the river. With the sounds of gushing water, the twittering of birds and a view of the stream and mountains nearby, it’s the perfect place for a novelist to churn out his next piece of fiction, even while digging into a vegetarian thali comprising rice, dal and roti.
The ambience is sensual, lively and vibrant while still being relaxing and refreshing. A large mango tree towers above the restaurant, offering shade while still providing splendid views of the river. A lovely swing tethered high up on the tree hangs down – an idyllic rocking chair which at full swing reaches out dreamily into the expanse of the mighty river.
Another great place is the backyard of Vittala temple complex that leads to the Tunga Bhadra river where you can go on a coracle ride. There’s a public bathroom as well, if guys want to indulge in some fun and frolic down the stream inundated with rocks. After your 20-minute coracle ride, you would have to hop from one rock to another to reach the shore. The best part of it is when he rotates the boat. The faster he does, the more dangerous and exciting it becomes. After all, it’s 500 feet deep. If you are a first-timer, ask him to do a slow spin. If you are an expert, the faster the better. But take your precautions.
AND FINALLY…
Hampi is first a place for artisans who reveled in creativity that could shine forever. That some of their hard work has been taken away by time is painful. However, with the state government honouring it with an annual festival and UNESCO bestowing it as a ‘world heritage site’ that needs to be guarded till eternity, it’s a welcome sign that their hard work will not be in vain.
Thank you, Hampi. Thank you, Government of Karnataka.
(Published in Windows & Aisles, the inflight magazine of Paramount Airways, 2008)
February 28, 2018
Blue mountains
The Gateway Hotel is a welcome abode for the body, mind and spirit
There’s something about The Gateway Hotel in Coonoor.
Forget that it’s 6033 feet above sea level. Forget that it’s right above Ooty, the ‘queen of hill stations’. Just remember, it is more happiness per square foot here than anywhere else in the blue mountain range. And it starts the moment you step inside this venture of the Taj Group of Hotels. Orange garlands find their place around your neck and your parched throat is given sufficient nourishment with an energising fruit juice.
Enter the colonial Superior Room overlooking the misty Blue Mountains and a garden that plays host to bonfires at night, and you know you will be pampered from sole to soul. Picture this. High ceilings, fireplace, sparkling white interiors, glass shower cubicle, luxurious bathtub in a spacious bathroom, and an in-house TV channel that teaches you yoga. No two rooms are alike, giving you the exclusivity you deserve. But the best part? You are staying in a 150-year-old Victorian building where the saints of the next-door All Saints Church once stayed.
With Gateway offering round-the-clock room service (they do up your room every time you step out), their 24×7 approach wows you. And if you don’t have company to play a round of table tennis, their in-house instructor will give you company and even teach you a thing or two on bettering your game. And the ever-helpful Manager (operations) Muralidharan will give you a tip or two on venturing out to non-touristy areas that are a lot more fun. Like the Ralliah dam that offers serenity and quietude unrivalled by others on the Coonoor scene.
Importantly, you are given food fit for a finicky foodie. Not only is the cuisine eclectic – Italian, Mexican, Chinese, Indian and Continental – it’s also prepared with much thought. You are served ‘active food’, a combination of low glycemic index foods and super foods that are packed with antioxidants and phytochemicals to help you in weight management and keep energy levels balanced for a long and fruitful day of sightseeing in Coonoor and Ooty. There are more than 20 places to visit and one weekend will not suffice.
Which is why, it’s good to stay for a week to make the most of your trip out here. From watching the sun set at Tiger Hills to gaping at the Nilgiris range of mountains, Lady Cannings Seat and Dolphin’s Nose, there’s the awe-inspiring Lamb’s Rock. Not to mention, Wenlock Downs where most film shoots take place because of their rolling green mountains offering a panoramic view of the surrounding hills. And then, there’s the picturesque Pykara Boat House that make you wonder if you are in a stretch of Ladakh, minus the snow.
Ooty’s Botanical Gardens literally expand your soul. With an undulating green surface dotted with trees and flowers all around, including a well-maintained Italian garden, you will spend a good part of the day exploring the many acres of this park. Once you are out of here, you will find yourself in the middle of a shopping wonderland: handicrafts, Ooty chocolates and the many varieties of tea. To round off your day is a 60-minute session of Abhyanga, the relaxing ayurvedic massage done so smoothly at the hotel that you don’t feel your body is being pampered to health. Sole to soul, indeed!
The Gateway Hotel
Church Road, Upper Coonoor, Tamil Nadu Tel: +91423-2230021. Website: thegatewayhotels.com. Till June 30th, room rents range from Rs 8000 to Rs 12000, inclusive of breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sightseeing costs extra.
(Published in The Man, 2012)
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