The first time I saw it, the pages had already yellowed with age.  The olive-green cover had faded and the binding had gone, the pages held together with sticky tape.  She pulled it from a packet sleeve, kept in a cupboard in a back room …

An historic Shan town, built at the foot of the Northern Chin hills and the last town before the Tamu/Moreh border with India, Kalay had seen few foreign visitors before the transition.  With both the border and the Chin Hills closed to those without pe...