Part IV the hunt
‘Sir, its 1030am. The breakfast buffet closes at 11,’ said the pakora boy from the previous night.We could hear him but I literally couldn’t move. Audy was in the bathroom brushing her teeth.‘What is he saying,’ she asked.‘Breakfast now or never bubba,’ I responded, ‘I can’t even get out of bed.’‘Why? What’s wrong with you?’‘Siiiirr! The kitchen closes in 30 minutes. Please wake up,’ said the pakora boy.‘Come inside for a second, Ahmed,’ I asked him, ‘I need to talk to you.’As he entered the tent and as I laid flat on the bed I said, “…there’s a grasshopper on the roof, please take care of it?’‘Allahu Akbar!’ he yelled. ‘Sir, please get out of bed immediately.’‘What? Why? I can hardly reach over to pick up my phone.’The manager heard the pakora boy’s scream and came running in with two of his staff as Audy jolted out of the bathroom.‘Please leave the room Sir and Madam. We need to capture the scorpion,’ said the manager. Despite the urgency, the body decided to cooperate in sloth like fashion. That dubious camel ride from the previous afternoon had taken a significant toll on the back and legs. While walking to the cafeteria, Audy disclosed that she wasn’t sure whether it was insect or arachnid as she was half asleep, but said what she had so that I wouldn’t obsess about it till dawn. ‘She knows me all too well’, I thought. As we ate the manager came and informed, ‘We got the scorpion, Sir, and we killed it. It wasn’t poisonous by the way.’Why the hell would they kill it if it wasn’t poisonous? They could have just released it and let it roam throughout the desert! Or was he just saying that to make me feel better? I wasn’t sure so I left those thoughts aside and asked, ‘Hey, given that you are a local I think you could help me get some information…I need to know where
Bhati Village is?’ ‘Bhati Village…’ he paused to think, ‘…sir, there is no such place around here. Let me check and get back to you. You and Madam please relax till late afternoon, you have a desert safari later today.’‘A desert safari? I’m having difficulty walking back to our room!’ I thought. There was plenty of time, and I hadn’t forgotten that dealing with the aftereffects of the previous night’s argument was essential and of utmost importance. Audy began folding her clothes which were still hanging off the chairs and the coffee table from yesterday afternoon and I attempted to help, but assistance was declined. I was told to rest a body aching. I held her elbow and slid my hand to hers and requested that she have a seat so that we could talk. There were no attributes in pinpointing the details of the verbal altercation from last evening so I had to take a higher path in reconciliation. I shared open heartedly my feelings on our accomplishments during our first year of marriage and my appreciation for her as my wife and as a compassionate daughter-in-law; how unlikely the latter was in modern days’ time and age, and how grateful my parents felt especially given the fact that we both decided to remain in India to provide care given the risks of leaving them alone during the accelerating pandemic. She was silent. I then asked for her forgiveness from the quarrel from the night before. She accepted it and apologized in return, mentioning that she had also made certain statements which fueled the flame and had things get out of control. ‘You know which animal you remind me of?’ she asked.‘Tell me.’‘You’re a lion. One that shouldn’t be bothered when hungry or tired.’‘A lion who got his ass kicked by a fucking camel,’ I responded, ‘by the way…happy anniversary Audy.’‘Happy anniversary boo.’

The air was cleared and the afternoon passed quickly. More guests had been arriving and the camp was nearly full. The mind and body at 5 p.m. were both hoping that the desert safari would be canceled, as I wouldn’t even be able to ask Audy to reconsider given the obvious.

I was not as fortunate, so I reminded myself that luck always favors the brave. We were off to the sand dunes in an army type jeep and during the excursion, moments of both rushing adrenaline and soothing calmness were experienced. The desert possessed this mystic energy, something I couldn’t immediately figure out, but was sure that it would come to me later. We returned to the camp as the evening performances were about to begin, and as we quickly walked back to our rooms we met a couple from Gujarat who had just arrived. It was in fact their one year anniversary on March 10, just the day before, and we decided to sit together during the entertainment.

As the two hour long performance neared its end, the main singer of the group went from left to right picking members of the audience at random and asking for their names one by one so that he could impromptu lines of poetry based on what he had observed for each. And then he came around to unexpectedly pick me last.‘What is your name good Sir?’ he said.‘Bhatia,’ I respondedHe freestyled:“To the man from Bhati, Sir Bhatia:It is a common belief when they say that elderly folk know not how to engage in love.But when we, the children observe them,The subtle reality emerges,That they truly mustn’t even know the limits of it,” he said. I sat there astonished, not just from his effulgent verses but by him mentioning that I was from Bhati Village, as if he had already known when I had simply given him my last name. He then began performing the final song of the performance and serendipity had it to be the same
Rajasthani folk song,
“Nimbooda Nimbooda”, I had asked the family troupe of musicians to sing, those whom I had played with from the desert a day earlier. I was transfixed, floating in bewilderment, and amazement at the same time. It was so close to an out-of-body experience, that other than taking a couple of congratulatory calls for our anniversary, I can still hardly recall anything else from that evening after this performance. ..As we checked out the following morning and walked to the taxi another thing had become entirely evident – the lion who got his ass kicked by the camel was now walking like a penguin. All credit went to the army jeep, its fanatic driver and the curvy sand dunes. While heading to the city I asked the driver if he knew the location of Bhati Village. He looked clueless. ‘How does not anyone from here know where this place is,’ I thought. Upon arriving at
Jaisalmer Marriott and as our room was being prepared, I walked over to the concierge, as Audy sat comfortably in the lobby, to ask about the location of the village. He was as oblivious as the taxi driver. A hotel trainee grabbed our bags and said: ‘Right this way Mr. Bhatia, let me take you to your room 201. You have been upgraded,’ he said.‘Oh that’s nice. Where are you from, Bharat,’ I asked after looking at his nametag while getting into the lift.‘I am from here, born in Jaisalmer, Sir,’ he responded.‘Was your grandfather born in Jaisalmer as well?’‘Yes Sir. My forefathers are from here, at least five generations prior to me,’ he said confidently.‘Okay. Do you know of a place called Bhati Village,’ I asked.‘Umm…no…why do you ask Sir? Please let me know how I can help.’‘I am told that my known heritage is from here. That’s the reason why I came.’ I said.‘Your surname certainly rings a bell, Sir. Let me find out for you. I will let you know as soon as possible.’ The trainee seemed genuine. This cat was punchy, had an old school bop of his own, and didn’t seem like one of those young employees who would make you believe that they could solve everything just to coin a tip. To which I realized when he dropped my bags in the room, that I had no small change to give him. Regardless, he declined and said that he was just doing his duty. “Now’s The Time”
https://music.apple.com/th/album/nows-the-time/1425174947… [image error] [Charlie Parker]
So as we settled in, I threw on some Charlie Parker. The lukewarm water in the bathroom was so calming that I decided to sit down on the shower pan with the water running all over the body before I started lathering the loofah to bathe. ‘This is way better than the freezing cold water in the camp,’ I thought. Audy was lounging on the sofa, which was really just a sitting area extension against the wall, and overlooked the beautiful courtyard of the hotel. We decided to order room service for lunch and along with the tasty chicken kathi rolls arrived a cake with “Happy Anniversary” written on it.
‘Did you tell them it’s ours Binny,’ asked Audy.‘Aaaah no…oh wait, they probably did a social media search and found that desert jam video where the caption mentioned it,’ I responded.

After attending a couple of conference calls, we spent the rest of the day roaming throughout the hotel and had more surprises – from a bed that was decorated with flowers to complimentary drinks at dinner, no expense was spared by the property.Clever flow indeed!

..The following day we were off to
Jaisalmer Fort for the first half. Having a guide who told us its history and that it was still the only living fort in India was enlightening. We also learned that the coronation of the new King had taken place just a couple of months earlier in the fort.









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After visiting the Jain and Hindu temples within and several historical sites around, we strolled down to the market near the entrance, and to our surprise noticed that the Bhatia name was on the shop signs of almost every other store. I learned later that this market is, in fact, known as the Bhatia Bazaar.
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Next We returned back to the hotel for lunch. I searched for Bharat the trainee and after sneaking up behind him, grabbed his arm and said,‘My surname rings a bell?! There’s a whole bazaar with my last name!”‘No that’s not why I mentioned it, Sir.’ He was startled. ‘There’s a temple with a deity that is known to be for the Bhatias. All members of the clan congregate there once a year. I am trying to find the location,’ he said.‘Shit…sorry, my bad! Listen tomorrow is my last full day here and I’m off the following morning,’ I said.‘Noted Sir. I will have the details for you by the evening.’ After another order of
kathi rolls we were off to the second tourist spot,
Bada Bagh. The tranquility felt upon entering the grounds must have had a story behind it. As we walked up to the structures we learned that they were cenotaphs or burial grounds where royals deceased had been cremated since the 18th century, and most recently with the passing of
Maharawal Brij Raj Singh on December 29, 2020. I didn’t need to know any more of this place’s history from the tour guides who were chasing us. This wasn’t that kind of place. Audy and I walked around, sat at a place overlooking the mangroves where there was an intermittent breeze. It was beautiful and serene especially as the sun began to set.




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Next We rescheduled the visit to
Gadisar Lake for the following day as a result and instead decided to go shopping for more colorful turbans and scarfs as gifts for my parents. Upon returning to the hotel and as we walked to the lifts, I heard steps slowly running to catch me, and as I turned there was a panting yet simultaneously smiling Bharat.‘The name of your temple is
Kulariyarai. You need to head to Roopsi Village, and on the main road you will come to a small village called Chhatrel. At that intersection where you must take a right. Once you travel down the following road you will see a small hill on the left side and small road leading to it. The temple is there’, he mentioned.‘Wait. Rupsi, Chatrail intersection make a right. Got it! You are sure that’s where I need to go,’ I asked.‘Yes Sir. I am certain of it. Just follow my instructions and you’ll get there.’

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