One of the outcomes of Russia’s war against Ukraine is not just the impact on global food stocks of Ukrainian exports of grain and sunflower seeds, stalled by Russia’s blockade of Ukraine’s seaports but the rising cost of white fish. Were you aware that Russia is responsible for the provision of 45 percent of the world's whitefish supply, largely pollack (lieu jaune), cod (cabillaud) and haddock (églefin), all fished in the Barents Sea? 

Not just a shortage of sunflower oil is pushing the price of fish-and-chips to extraordinary heights. High-end chefs are taking specialities like scallops off their menus. They are no longer saleable at a price that reflects their now hugely elevated cost. In London, one Michelin-starred chef’s signature scallop dish that had been £19/€22 would now have to be costed at an impossible £30/€35. So it’s no longer on the menu.

France is fortunate that its own fishing grounds are so close and so abundant with interesting varieties there is less need to buy white fish. Fishes appear on the fishmonger’s slabs of ice that may be utterly unfamiliar. But there is no-one more willing to tell you what to do with them than the person behind you in the queue. 

The British have always been conservative in their fish choice, unaware that half the species they spurn (like the gurnard common in British waters highly prized in Marseille as essential to bouillabaisse) are warmly welcomed in Europe. 

There were fifty-two species of edible fish listed in the 1970s by what is now Britain’s Sea Fish Industry Authority. That’s not counting shellfish or freshwater fish, nor fish imported for specific ethnic markets, and the Brits still don’t eat nearly enough of them. Maybe it’s a left-over from the days when it was felt men required a good steak or chunk of red meat as a main course.

Those days and attitudes are long gone, and we understand how important it is for climate change to reduce our appetite for red meat. Over the course of one summer, I counted over twenty-five different kinds of fish in our Perigord markets. But if you still feel a little anxious about venturing into unfamiliar cooking territory, try this dish, which makes a change from the familiar Moules Marinière, and has the advantage that most of it can be prepared in advance.

Gratin de moules 

Serves 4-6 

2 kg mussels
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
350ml dry white wine
350g butter, softened
3-6 garlic cloves, depending on enthusiasm, peeled and grated
Zest of 1 lemon and 2 tablespoons juice
4 rounded tablespoons finely chopped parsley
100g fresh breadcrumbs
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Tip the mussels into a sinkful of cold water. Scrub each one, pulling off their beards. Discard any broken mussels. Tap any open mussels with a knife. If they don't immediately shut tight, discard them. Once cleaned, tumble the mussels through fresh cold water to eliminate any remaining sand. 

Heat the oil in a large pan, add the shallots, stir, and cook over a low heat for 5 minutes or until soft. Add the wine and raise the heat to medium. As soon as it comes to the boil, tip in the mussels and cover with a lid. Cook the mussels for about 5 minutes to open them, shaking the pan frequently. Remove the lid and lift out the mussels with a slotted spoon. Discard any that are still closed. Reserve the cooking liquid and strain into a bowl through a sieve lined with muslin or doubled kitchen towel, discarding the shallots. Rinse out the pan, then return the liquid to it. Boil the liquid over a high heat down to about 2 tablespoons. 

Remove and discard the top shell of each cooked mussel. Arrange the bottoms close together in a roasting pan.

Mash the butter, garlic, lemon zest and juice, chopped parsley and breadcrumbs together with the mussel cooking liquid. This is a great deal easier if you do it by squeezing everything together with your clean hands. Season, and press a blob of the mixture onto each mussel. 

Preheat your grill to its hottest. Place the roasting pan under it until the butter is bubbling and the breadcrumbs lightly browned. Serve immediately with plenty of crusty baguette to dip into the juices - and a pile of paper napkins.

The dish can be prepared ahead and stored in the fridge up to the point where you dab the garlic butter mixture onto each mussel. (Keep that mixture on the counter to stay soft. Adding it to the mussels before refrigerating them will make the fridge reek of garlic.) 

This column written by Julia Watson originally appeared in the July 2022 edition of  The Bugle.