Chinese Clothing: A Comprehensive Guide to Traditional and Modern Styles
When you think of Chinese clothing, different images probably come to mind. Perhaps you envision the elegant flow of a silk qipao, or the vibrant colors of a traditional hanfu. Or maybe you’re thinking about the latest modern trends!
Chinese clothing (中国服饰 / 中國服飾, Zhōngguó fúshì) has evolved dramatically over the centuries, reflecting the country’s cultural heritage and social changes. Over the years, clothing in Chinese culture has been used to convey social status, cultural values, and aesthetic ideals.
While I was a student of Mandarin Chinese, I absolutely loved discovering more about traditional Chinese clothing and how it could be fused with modern outfits!
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I didn’t get to try on any traditional clothing, but here’s me at a night market in Taiwan!Now while I’m partial to traditional characters having spent more time in Taiwan, don’t worry – I’ll give you both the simplified and traditional characters for each word if they differ!
Table of contentsEvolution of Chinese Clothing Through DynastiesHan Dynasty (206 BCE-220 CE): Birth of HanfuTang Dynasty (618-907 CE): The Golden Age of FashionMing Dynasty (1368-1644 CE): Return to TraditionQing Dynasty (1636-1912 CE): Manchu Influence and Birth of QipaoTraditional Clothing of Ethnic MinoritiesDai Ethnic Minority (傣族, Dǎizú )Tibetan Ethnic Minority (藏族, Zàngzú )Uyghur Ethnic Minority (维吾尔族 / 維吾爾族, Wéiwú’ěrzú )Zhuang Ethnic Minority (壮族, Zhuàngzú )Modern Chinese ClothingRevival of Traditional StylesUse in Formal OccasionsInfluence on Haute CoutureModern Clothing Vocabulary in MandarinKey Elements of Chinese ClothingMaterialsColors and Their SignificanceEmbroidery and PatternsAccessoriesWear Your Chinese Skills with Pride!Here’s just a sampling of some of the words we’ll go through today:
Simplified Characters Traditional Characters Pinyin English Audio 服饰 服飾 fúshì Clothing and accessories 汉服 漢服 hànfú Hanfu (traditional Han Chinese clothing) 长衫 長衫 chángshān Cheongsam (for men) 旗袍 旗袍 qípáo Qipao (for women) 唐装 唐裝 tángzhuāng Mandarin jacket 筒裙 筒裙 tǒngqún Sarong 藏袍 藏袍 zàngpáo Chupa (Tibetan robe) 罩头 罩頭 zhàotóu Headscarf T恤 T恤 T xù T-shirt 牛仔裤 牛仔褲 niúzǎikù Jeans 红色 紅色 hóngsè Red 黄色 黃色 huángsè Yellow 丝绸 絲綢 sīchóu Silk 羊毛 羊毛 yángmáo Wool 帽子 帽子 màozi Hat 簪子 簪子 zānzi Hairpin 扇子 扇子 shànzi Fan 玉 玉 yù Jade Evolution of Chinese Clothing Through DynastiesTraditional Chinese clothing has undergone significant transformations throughout its long history.
In ancient China, clothing was a crucial component of the social order. The colors, materials, and designs of one’s attire were strictly regulated according to social rank and profession. Even today, certain traditional garments are reserved for special occasions.
Let’s explore the key developments in four major dynasties:
Han Dynasty (206 BCE-220 CE): Birth of HanfuThe Han Dynasty saw the birth of Hanfu (汉服 / 漢服, hànfú), which would become the foundation of traditional Chinese clothing. Hanfu consisted of a yi (衣, yī), a loose upper garment, and a chang (裳, cháng), a lower garment or skirt.
Characteristics of Hanfu included:
Wide sleeves and a loose, layered appearanceCross-collar design, with the right side wrapping over the leftUse of silk as the primary fabricDark colors, particularly black and red, were popularHanfu reflected the Confucian values of the time, emphasizing modesty and proper etiquette. The style was largely similar for both men and women, with differences mainly in colors and accessories.
Tang Dynasty (618-907 CE): The Golden Age of FashionThe Tang Dynasty is often considered the golden era of Chinese fashion, marked by prosperity and cultural exchange along the Silk Road.
Key features of Tang Dynasty fashion included:
Vibrant colors and bold patternsIncorporation of foreign elements, such as Persian and Central Asian stylesWomen’s fashion became more revealing, with low necklines and bare shouldersMen’s robes became more diverse in styleMakeup and hairstyles grew increasingly elaborateThe cosmopolitan nature of the Tang capital, Chang’an (modern-day Xi’an), influenced fashion trends, making them more diverse and expressive than in previous eras.
Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 CE): Return to TraditionThe Ming Dynasty marked a return to more traditional Han Chinese styles, rejecting foreign influences.
Distinctive elements of Ming Dynasty clothing included:
Revival of Hanfu styles with some modificationsStrict dress codes based on social statusMen’s clothing featured square collars and specific rank badgesWomen’s clothing became more modest, with high necklines and long skirtsPopularity of light and pastel colorsThe Ming Dynasty also saw the development of the Mandarin collar, which would later influence Western fashion.
Qing Dynasty (1636-1912 CE): Manchu Influence and Birth of QipaoThe Qing Dynasty, ruled by the Manchu ethnic group, brought significant changes to Chinese fashion.
Key developments in Qing Dynasty fashion included:
Introduction of the cheongsam (长衫 / 長衫, chángshān) for men and qipao (旗袍, qípáo) for womenAdoption of the Manchu hairstyle (queue) for menComplex system of dress codes indicating rank and statusUse of yellow as the imperial color, reserved for the emperor and his familyIntroduction of the Mandarin jacket or tangzhuang (唐装, tángzhuāng)The qipao, originally a loose-fitting garment, would later evolve into the form-fitting cheongsam we know today, becoming an iconic symbol of Chinese fashion.
Throughout these dynasties, we see how Chinese clothing reflected not just changing aesthetics, but also shifts in social norms, political power, and cultural exchange. This rich history continues to inspire both traditional dress and modern Chinese fashion design.
Traditional Clothing of Ethnic MinoritiesWhile the Han Chinese make up the majority of China’s population, the country is home to 55 officially recognized ethnic minority groups, each with its own unique traditional clothing – (and often different languages and dialects, too!).
These varied styles reflect the geography, climate, customs, and cultural heritage of each group.
Let’s check out some of the traditional clothing from four prominent ethnic minorities:
Dai Ethnic Minority (傣族, Dǎizú)The Dai people, primarily living in Yunnan Province, have clothing that reflects their tropical climate and Southeast Asian influences.
Key features of Dai clothing:
Women: Tight-fitting shirts paired with long, narrow skirts or sarongs (筒裙, tǒngqún)Men: Collarless jackets with loose trousersBright, vibrant colors and intricate embroideryUse of cotton and silk fabricsSilver jewelry as common accessoriesThe Dai clothing style shares similarities with traditional dress in neighboring countries like Thailand and Laos, highlighting the cross-border cultural connections.
Tibetan Ethnic Minority (藏族, Zàngzú)Tibetan clothing is designed to withstand the harsh, cold climate of the Tibetan Plateau.
Characteristics of Tibetan clothing:
Chupa (藏袍, zàngpáo): A long robe worn by both men and womenUse of wool, sheepskin, and fur for warmthLayered clothing that can be adjusted for temperature changesColorful aprons worn by married womenElaborate headdresses, often adorned with precious stonesTibetan clothing both provides protection from the elements and also serves as an expression of social status and religious beliefs.
Uyghur Ethnic Minority (维吾尔族 / 維吾爾族, Wéiwú’ěrzú)Uyghur clothing reflects the group’s Central Asian heritage and Islamic influences.
Notable elements of Uyghur clothing:
Women: Long dresses with vibrant patterns, often paired with vestsMen: Long robes (chapan) with belts, paired with embroidered caps (doppa)Use of atlas silk, a fabric with distinctive patternsHeadscarves (罩头 / 罩頭, zhàotóu) for women, often made of silkRich embroidery and use of bright colors, especially red, gold, and greenUyghur clothing combines practicality for the desert climate with artistic expression through intricate designs and bold colors.
Zhuang Ethnic Minority (壮族, Zhuàngzú)The Zhuang, China’s largest ethnic minority group, are known for their distinctive yet practical clothing.
Key features of Zhuang clothing:
Women: Collarless blouses paired with wide-legged trousers or pleated skirtsMen: Jackets with buttons down the front, paired with loose trousersUse of indigo-dyed fabrics, creating a predominantly blue and black color schemeDecorative elements like silver accessories and colorful embroidered ballsHandwoven and hand-dyed textiles, often featuring nature-inspired patternsZhuang clothing reflects the group’s agricultural lifestyle and their reverence for nature, with many designs inspired by flowers, birds, and other natural elements.
These unique styles continue to influence modern Chinese fashion and serve as a source of pride and cultural identity for their respective communities.
Modern Chinese ClothingIn recent years, Chinese clothing has experienced a fascinating evolution. It often blends traditional elements with contemporary styles. This fusion has led to a renewed interest in cultural heritage while embracing modern fashion trends.
Revival of Traditional StylesThere’s been a significant resurgence of interest in traditional Chinese clothing, particularly among the younger generation. This phenomenon, known as Hanfu Movement (汉服运动 / 漢服運動, hànfú yùndòng), has seen many young Chinese embracing traditional Han clothing styles in daily life.
For example, Hanfu clubs and social media groups have sprung up across China. Also, traditional clothing is worn not just for special occasions, but also for casual outings, as modern adaptations of hanfu make it more wearable for everyday life.
Use in Formal OccasionsTraditional Chinese clothing continues to play a significant role in formal and celebratory events.
The Qipao (旗袍, qípáo) remains a popular choice for women at formal dinners, weddings, and New Year celebrations.
Modified Tang suits (唐装, tángzhuāng) are often worn by men for similar occasions.
As we can see, traditional elements are incorporated into modern formal wear designs.
Influence on Haute CoutureAlso, Chinese traditional clothing has made a significant impact on the world of high fashion.
For example, designers like Guo Pei (郭培) and Laurence Xu (劳伦斯·许) incorporate traditional Chinese elements into their haute couture creations.
International fashion houses such as Dior and Valentino have released collections inspired by Chinese designs.
You’ll also find that Chinese motifs, fabrics, and silhouettes are regularly featured on international runways.
Modern Clothing Vocabulary in MandarinBy the way, to help you discuss modern Chinese fashion, here’s some essential vocabulary:
Essential Clothing Items: Simplified Characters Traditional Characters Pinyin English Audio T恤 T恤 T xù T-shirt 牛仔裤 牛仔褲 niúzǎikù Jeans 洋裝 洋裝 yángzhuāng Dress 夹克 夹克 jiákè Jacket 毛衣 毛衣 máoyī Sweater Colors and Patterns: Simplified Characters Traditional Characters Pinyin English Audio 红色 紅色 hóngsè Red 蓝色 藍色 lánsè Blue 黄色 黃色 huángsè Yellow 白色 白色 báisè White 黑色 黑色 hēisè Black 绿色 綠色 lǜsè Green 花纹 花紋 huāwén Floral pattern 条纹的 條紋的 tiáowén de Striped 波点 波點 bōdiǎn Polka dotFun fact: 蓝 / 藍 (lán, “blue”) can be a surname, and it’s what I chose for my Chinese name!
Accessories and Footwear: Simplified Characters Traditional Characters Pinyin English Audio 手提包 手提包 shǒutíbāo Handbag 围巾 圍巾 wéijīn Scarf 运动鞋 運動鞋 yùndòngxié Sneakers 高跟鞋 高跟鞋 gāogēnxié High heels 珠宝 珠寶 zhūbǎo JewelryAs China continues to play an increasingly significant role in the global fashion industry, we can expect to see even more exciting developments in the fusion of traditional and modern Chinese clothing styles!
Curious to learn more Chinese words? Check out our article teaching you 121 of the most common words in Mandarin. And of course, our vocabulary lists could go on and on, so if you want to learn more about Chinese clothes, check out this article!
Key Elements of Chinese ClothingChinese clothing is distinguished by several key elements that have evolved over thousands of years. Here are some of the staples:
MaterialsThe choice of materials in Chinese clothing has always been crucial because it often indicated social status and the occasion.
Silk (丝绸 / 絲綢, sīchóu):
The most prestigious material in traditional Chinese clothingDiscovered in China around 3000 BCESoft, lightweight, and excellent for embroideryCotton (棉花 / 棉花, miánhua):
Became popular during the Song Dynasty (960-1279 CE)Comfortable and breathable, ideal for everyday wearLinen (亚麻 / 亞麻, yàmá):
One of the earliest textile materials used in ChinaCool and suitable for summer clothingWool (羊毛 / 羊毛, yángmáo):
Primarily used in colder regions and by nomadic groupsOften felted for warmth and water resistanceColors and Their SignificanceColors in Chinese clothing are pretty symbolic and often convey specific meanings:
Red (红色 / 紅色, hóngsè):
Symbolizes good fortune, joy, and prosperityTraditional color for wedding dressesYellow (黄色 / 黃色, huángsè):
Imperial color, historically reserved for the emperorRepresents power, royalty, and earthBlue (蓝色 / 藍色, lánsè):
Associated with immortality and advancementOften used in official’s robesWhite (白色, báisè):
Symbolizes purity and innocenceTraditionally associated with mourningBlack (黑色, hēisè):
Represents formality and dignityOften used in scholarly robesFor even more information about Chinese colors and their significance, check out this article!
Embroidery and PatternsEmbroidery (刺绣 / 刺繡, cìxiù) is a crucial element in Chinese clothing. It often is used for telling stories or conveying wishes:
Dragon (龙 / 龍, lóng): Symbol of imperial powerPhoenix (凤凰 / 鳳凰, fènghuáng): Represents feminine grace and virtuePeony (牡丹, mǔdan): Symbolizes wealth and honorLotus (莲花 / 蓮花, liánhuā): Represents purity and enlightenment(Fans of Avatar: The Last Airbender might recall the symbolism of the White Lotus with Uncle Iroh, for example!)
Also, patterns often incorporate these symbols along with geometric designs and nature motifs.
AccessoriesAccessories play a vital role in completing traditional Chinese outfits:
Belts and Sashes (腰带 / 腰帶, yāodài):
Used to fasten robes and indicate social statusHeadwear:
Men: Various types of hats (帽子, màozi) indicating rank or professionWomen: Elaborate hairpins (簪子, zānzi) and headdressesFans (扇子, shànzi):
Both functional and decorativeOften feature calligraphy or paintingsJewelry:
Jade (玉, yù): Highly prized, symbolizing virtue and beautyGold and silver ornamentsThese elements continue to influence Chinese fashion design, so they create a unique blend of heritage and contemporary style.
Wear Your Chinese Skills with Pride!Of course, there’s so much more to Chinese clothing, but this seems enough for now! I’ll leave you with a proverb:
人靠衣装,佛靠金装 / 人靠衣裝,佛靠金裝 (rén kào yī zhuāng, fó kào jīn zhuāng) – “People rely on clothes for appearance, just as Buddha relies on gold for decoration.”
This Chinese proverb demonstrates importance of clothing in Chinese culture. Of course it’s a covering, and it also acts as an expression of identity, status, and beauty.
Until next time, 再见 / 再見 (zàijiàn, “bye”)!
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