Welcome readers — the new subscribers who’ve signed up in the past few weeks and months, as well as those of you who’ve been here since the beginning. I’m grateful for all of you! Field & Pantry newsletters are often essays about food experiences, with an accompanying recipe, but a few times a year, when I’m away from home and away from my kitchen, I post more of a food and travel essay, not so different from some of the work I used to do for The Globe and Mail newspaper. Today’s is one such pos...