On a chilly afternoon, under a slight drizzle, I got off the tram with my suitcase. Under the bridge where I stood, the River Garonne flowed gently. I walked the short distance to the nearby neighborhood, located the apartment and let myself in.

I found myself in a living room flooded with natural light, full of little touches, with a balcony overlooking the wilderness. A sweet handwritten letter welcomed me, gave me a quick orientation and pointed me to a careful curation of vegan snacks! T...