(Click here to read about the previous hike in this series: Nakasendō Day 8: Itahana to Yokokawa) On the morning of February 23, I woke up at 5:45 a.m. and was out the door at 6:35–a little later than planned, but I stayed in my room at Oyado Tokyoya until the temperature rose to a balmy -7° C (20° F)–it was -10° when I woke up, and I wanted to let the sun warm the air a little bit before starting the walk. The first historical site of the day was only three minutes from the ryokan where I spent