The Fertility Symbol and the Mad Monk
This post is not for the faint-hearted. Consider yourself warned.
One of the most striking — and frankly, hilarious — symbols visitors encounter in Bhutan is the phallus. Yes, that phallus. It’s boldly painted on house walls, displayed in temples, hanging from eaves, or carved into wooden charms. There’s even one in my hotel room. Far from being obscene, this proudly displayed symbol of fertility is tied to the legend of a very colorful figure: Drukpa Kunley, also known as the Divine Madman.
Today, we visited Chimi Lhakhang, the temple dedicated to him, in Punakha in central Bhutan.
Drukpa Kunley (1455–1529) was a Tibetan monk, poet, and tantric master with a teaching style that can best be described as… unorthodox. While other monks followed strict rituals, Kunley preferred humor, shock tactics, and the occasional scandalous gesture to cut through ego and hypocrisy. He wandered through Bhutan and Tibet singing bawdy songs, cracking jokes, and generally behaving in ways that would give most abbots a heart attack.
Unlike many pious teachers, he didn’t view sexuality as shameful — he saw it as natural and divine. Good on him.
According to legend, he used his penis — which he affectionately called his “Thunderbolt of Flaming Wisdom” to subdue demons and bless women who came to him seeking fertility. Over time, the phallus became a symbol of fertility and protection, believed to ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune.
These days, the shops around the temple are a phallic wonderland. Painted, carved, polished, dangly — they come in every size and color imaginable. No one’s blushing; everyone’s laughing.
Even today, Bhutanese people, especially in rural areas, paint large, colorful phalluses on their homes or hang wooden ones at the entrance. In Bhutan, it’s not rude. It’s lucky. And since I’ve been blessed by so many phalluses, dare I hope I’m now fully

protected — and blessed?