Thanksgiving Day is just around the corner, and planning has started here at Wine Economist World Headquarters. The menu will be traditional (for us) with a focus on the vegetable side dishes more than the roast bird. The real question is, what wines will be served? That’s plural wines because we stretch the feast over several days on the theory that leftovers are the best part.

Choosing wines is often a last-minute affair, and it is never simple (or uncomplicated) because you have to decide wha...