Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest by Wade Davis

My rating: 5 of 5 stars


Mr. Davis did a very thorough and meticulously researched bio on George Mallory, and the team members on the 1921, 1922 and 1924 Everest expeditions. It is a substantial tome, but a very worthwhile read for anyone with a dedicated interest in the history of mountaineering, and of course Everest in particular. I remember when Conrad Anker found Mallory's body on the mountain, and everyone was hoping the mystery would be solved concerning whether or not Mallory & Irvine made it to the top. Davis explores the question, and suggests (following Anker's lead) that it is unlikely. If Irvine's body is ever discovered, and if their camera is found with it, then perhaps the answer can be objectively known.

As someone with a lifelong passion for mountain climbing, and a personal interest in mountaineering literature, this book was fascinating. I don't really have any criticism, but if I were to offer a critique to readers, I would prepare them for the extensive background of the team members' experiences in the first World War. It is thorough, unsanitized, and certainly affords a grim look at what the horror of war is like. Yet it is a part of who these men were, and informed their characters and actions, and helps explain the psychological necessity, the collective conviction, for the Everest ascent--something positive, something "good", a pure achievement of the human spirit, following such a dark period in European history. A second critique, would be that Davis explores the homosexual experimentations in men's private-school settings during that time period in the UK. This seems unnecessary to the story, and because of its placement early in the book, feels like the author may be trying to capitalize on sensationalism to solidify his readership. Does an author need to capitulate to our culture's preoccupation with political correctness, revisionist assessments, and "gotcha" journalism to sell a story? This portion of the story is not extensive in content, and so does not become too distracting.

The three ascent expeditions make for a very satisfying read. Again, thoroughly researched. Including personal letters to & from family members. The expedition members are no longer names to the reader, they are people. This, as much as anything, will give readers today a sense of what was accomplished--even without the actual summit. The story reminds us how unique and rich (and unrepeatable) certain moments in time are. Everest today, while still a worthy goal, is a very different scene. A highway of commercialism, where the summit is lined with paying clients with little to no mountaineering experience. The greatest danger is not the mountain--it is standing in line in the Death Zone, waiting behind less competent climbers, and playing Russian Roulette with frostbite. Not quite the same existential award. Paying for any achievement that is better earned, seems to violate what ought be sacrosanct. There is something so meaningful in the struggle to achieve, that seems lost on the mountain today. Which makes the lesser known peaks, the road less traveled, the more desirable path.

A must-have for any Everest aficionado! A satiating read, and inspiring.



View all my reviews