Gonzo Grapes: The Wines You Never Heard Of

Somewhere in misty memory, I recall that people make wine from around 220 different varieties of grapes. So, aside from the biggies like Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet, and about 10-15 others, the rest are fairly obscure. Some are used as blending grapes, or bottled as single varietals and never leave the region where they’re grown.

That’s where the fun comes in – discovering wines (some great, some not so much) made from varietals that mystify all but Master Sommeliers and the most dedicated wine lifers. (“Here, try a glass of this Gaglioppo…”)

While every winegrowing region has its own gonzo grapes, I’m especially partial to seeking out those from Italy because they seem to be the most fun, and offer delightful surprises. So here’s the first in a series of suggestions for the next time you find yourself combing through the bottom shelves in the wine shop.

PRATELLO DISCOBOLO 2008
Discobolo means “discus thrower,” so this is a proprietary name for the blend of three black grapes, only one of which is familiar. The major grape in this blend is Gropello, Italian for pine cone,” a reference to the shape of the tight clusters.

The region, Garda, is in Lombardy along Lake Garda, halfway between Milan and Venice, and they produce about 2.5 million bottles a year, none of which I’ve ever seen in my neighborhood wine shop, or even in Costco. The two major wines from the region are Garda Classico Gropello and Garda Classico Chiarello, both made from the same grape.

In the case of this wine, the blend is 85% Gropello, 10% Marzemino (another gonzo grape), and a dash of Barbera, which is finally a familiar name. The bottle I tried was clear ruby red in the glass, with cherry notes on the nose. Lots going on midpalate, with plum, bitter raspberry, spice, black pepper, and roses. Lovely.
Jerry Greenfield