One of the highlights of our stay in Battenbang was the cookery course at The Smokin’ Pot Cambodian restaurant. Head chef Vannack patiently guided Nicky and I with four other apprentice cooks to prepare and cook three traditional Khumer dishes. The cooking followed on from a walk around the market to gather fresh ingredients - a real eye opener, especially when he selected the fish he wanted, still wriggling on a large display tray. He gave the lady a nod, then chop chop, fillet fillet, cook cook.