The thing about Angkor Wat (the big crowd pleaser temple) and the temple complex as a whole is that you need to build up to it by seeing the smaller outlying temples first, hence our first day away from the crowds at Preah Khan, some 24km from the entrance. Cycling there was a joy - virtually no Tuk Tuk’s or scooters on the road and when we arrived, peace and quiet - lovely!

I actually found Preah Khan more impressive walking around the perimeter because it gave more of a sense of scale and grandeur. Inside the walls the temple felt enclosed and oppressive, but I guess they weren’t built for habitation by humans, but as shrines to the Gods.