As we approached the ochre-colored shore of Egypt I gripped the taffrail and peered at the shore, taking in my first glimpse of the fabled city of Alexandria.  It was a disappointing sight. Instead of seeing a glorious gem of antiquity, she looked decrepit, ruined. I spied Pompey’s Pillar and the decaying walls of a fortress, as well as a thicket of masts in the harbor, but for the most part, the reality of Egypt did not square with my romantic notion.   “There! Philippe,” cried Paul. “Look at[image error]