The čajovna, or tea-room, was becoming quite a phenomenon; there are almost as many tea rooms as beer halls in Prague now, I thought, as I followed him down the shadowy hall.... I caught the scent of some unfamiliar incense, just before he led me through a curtain of beads and down a narrow stone staircase. The walls were rough, ancient, and cold; I followed him around the spiral, hand on the rail for balance. When we reached the bottom, our steps went silent as we crossed a thick carpet. I...