Barbarian Days question

The first two-thirds of Finnegan's Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir of surfing around the world was riveting. Never have waves and their addicted acolytes been more detailed, examined, poeticized. Gorgeous writing, celestial description.
But. The last third of the book began to flatten likes waves in summer. So much more about Finnegan and his seemingly effortless rise to New Yorker fame and success. Less about how surfing had shaped his adult consciousess. I was eager for the book to end.