sipit
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“Sahara, the bright, penetrating lights, the quick drop of comets, a cold moon, which made the rippling patterns of sand look like a frozen sea. The universe was large all right, but no larger, it appeared, than the whole wide world ahead of me.”
― A Cook's Tour: Global Adventures in Extreme Cuisines
― A Cook's Tour: Global Adventures in Extreme Cuisines
“I had sessions where I got tubed on half my rides. I would trot back to Kobatake's, where Caryn was still asleep on our pallet on the floor, my brain aflame with eight or ten brief, sharp glimpses of eternity.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“It was, once again, a glorious wave, with hues in its depths so intense they felt like first editions—ocean colors never seen before, made solely for this wave, this moment, perhaps never to be seen again.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“We lived, and that we felt with alert intensity.”
― The Kontiki Expedition
― The Kontiki Expedition
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