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“We lived, and that we felt with alert intensity.”
― Thor Heyerdahl, The Kontiki Expedition

“In the desert I am worth as much as my gods.”
― Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

“It was, once again, a glorious wave, with hues in its depths so intense they felt like first editions—ocean colors never seen before, made solely for this wave, this moment, perhaps never to be seen again.”
― William Finnegan, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

“I had sessions where I got tubed on half my rides. I would trot back to Kobatake's, where Caryn was still asleep on our pallet on the floor, my brain aflame with eight or ten brief, sharp glimpses of eternity.”
― William Finnegan, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life