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“I felt the weight of unmapped worlds, unborn language.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“William! We got waves.” He called me William only on serious occasions, or as part of a joke. This was a serious occasion. We had run out of food the night before, and had been planning a run to Lahaina, the nearest town, which was twelve miles away, for provisions. That plan was postponed indefinitely. We scavenged for nutrients—gnawing old mango rinds, scraping out soup cans, choking down bread previously rejected as moldy. We grabbed our boards and jogged around the point, screaming”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Reese's Book Club x Hello Sunshine
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Hey Y’all, We’ve been reading together for awhile and we don’t know about you, but we’re ready to hear your thoughts and opinions. This group is a pl ...more
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