
“I felt the weight of unmapped worlds, unborn language.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“The particulars of new places grabbed me and held me, the sweep of new coasts, cold, lovely, dawns. The world was incomprehensibly large, and there was still so much to see. Yes, I got sick sometimes of being an expatriate, always ignorant, on the outside of things, but I didn't feel ready for domestic life, for seeing the same people, the same places, thinking more or less the same thoughts, each day. I liked surrendering to the onrush, the uncertainty, the serendipity of the road.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
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