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We love surfers for the same reasons we have always admired doctors and pilots and firemen and shamans, for the same reasons we admire excellent soldiers: because despite themselves they have bowed to a force much greater than themselves,
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I've never been able to put into words what has always intrigued me about surfing and surfers until reading this
Jason’s 2025 Year in Books
Take a look at Jason’s Year in Books, including some fun facts about their reading.
267 books
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5,001 friends
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42 friends
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