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We love surfers for the same reasons we have always admired doctors and pilots and firemen and shamans, for the same reasons we admire excellent soldiers: because despite themselves they have bowed to a force much greater than themselves,
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I've never been able to put into words what has always intrigued me about surfing and surfers until reading this
Jason’s 2025 Year in Books
Take a look at Jason’s Year in Books, including some fun facts about their reading.
261 books
|
4,798 friends
433 books
|
24 friends
775 books
|
60 friends
572 books
|
69 friends
969 books
|
2,549 friends
121 books
|
55 friends
46 books
|
24 friends
2 books
|
42 friends
More friends…
Favorite Genres
Polls voted on by Jason
Lists liked by Jason
