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“There was the ocean, effectively infinite, falling away forever to the horizon.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“she had enormous eyes and a laugh that pealed thrillingly in the twilight.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“I've been reduced on certain magnificent days... to just drifting on the shoulder, gawking at the transformation of ordinary seawater into beautifully muscled swell, into feathering urgency, into pure energy, impossibly sculpted, ecstatically edged, and finally into violent foam.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“the persistent nostalgia that infected most surfers, even young ones - the notion that it was always better yesterday, and better still the day before.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
“Surfers have a perfection fetish. The perfect wave, etcetera. There is no such thing. Waves are not stationary objects in nature like roses or diamonds. They're quick, violent events at the end of a long chain of storm action and ocean reactions.”
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
― Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Cody’s 2025 Year in Books
Take a look at Cody’s Year in Books, including some fun facts about their reading.
29 books
|
202 friends
39 books
|
26 friends
160 books
|
94 friends
506 books
|
7 friends
79 books
|
34 friends
166 books
|
47 friends
0 books
|
6 friends
1 book
|
113 friends
More friends…
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