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Adrian Trendall

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Broken: 2020: the year running records were rewritten

by Ally Beaven

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Adrian Trendall said: " Broken

2020: the year running records were rewritten

by Ally Beaven

Running’s not really my thing but this was a book I was looking forward to reading and reviewing. In the past, especially when living in Snowdonia, I ran a lot on the mountains and love Broken

2020: the year running records were rewritten

by Ally Beaven

Running’s not really my thing but this was a book I was looking forward to reading and reviewing. In the past, especially when living in Snowdonia, I ran a lot on the mountains and loved the solitude and exhilaration. Nowadays, I’m a bit more protective of my knees and ankles but it doesn’t hurt to dream and “Broken” is the stories of dreams realised in a very unusual year.

The author is obviously a fantastic runner as well as a barman. The book is written in an engaging and witty style and one can easily imagine Ally and fellow runners enjoying a post run rehydration session, the banter flowing along with the drinks. It could easily have been a book of dry statistics and facts but the end result is a lively account of a number of record breaking runs.
Indeed the author helped support various of the runners so the book is very much written from an insider’s point of view. One of the chapters I found most interesting was “The Big 6” which describes Ally’s experiences on the Cairngorm 4000s plus Ben Avon and Beinn a Bhuird. He kicks of by putting himself in the whole scheme of things; “Deep in the bowels of Glenmore Lodge…where I pull pints for a living, decisions are being made and plans for reopening are taking shape. As part time barman, I doubt I will be high on the list of people they want back in the building as soon as possible.”

Finlay Wild features and having seen him run (and win by huge amounts) the annual Glamaig race, and as one time holder of the summer Cuillin Ridge record, it’s no surprise. What is a surprise and very refreshing is his attitude and style. Many of the records were micro managed and planned like a military exercise with support teams, pacers and media connectivity. In contrast, Finlay’s record breaking Ramsay Round was done solo, totally unsupported, no pacers, nothing but him versus the terrain.

When the book arrived I was looking forward to it especially Donnie Campbell’s Munro Round in 31 days but it was other lesser known runs that grabbed my attention. Typical was the Dartmoor Round. Not just familiar places from when I lived in Okehampton but full of human interest with a cast of characters with nicknames that make you think “all the south west’s ultra runners moonlight as professional darts players.” Welcome to the world of “Plodder” and “Zippy.”

Overall, Broken is a great read for runner and also for the armchair athlete and Ally should be congratulated for writing such an entertaining book. ...more "

Feb 23, 2021 05:59AM · see review

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Classic Rock

by Ken Wilson

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Adrian Trendall said: " Classic Rock
Compiled by Ken Wilson
Vertebrate Publishing
Originally published in 1978, “Classic Rock” has become one of the most enduring standard works of climbing literature. It’s publishing history spans Granada, Grafton, Diadem, Baton Wicks and now Classic Rock
Compiled by Ken Wilson
Vertebrate Publishing
Originally published in 1978, “Classic Rock” has become one of the most enduring standard works of climbing literature. It’s publishing history spans Granada, Grafton, Diadem, Baton Wicks and now Vertebrate.
It is a long standing volume that has always been there, at least for climbers of my age. Classic Rock does exactly what it says and has always been the most achievable of the trilogy which include Hard and Extreme Rock.
Having just reviewed and been super impressed by Vertebrate’s update to Hard Rock it was only natural to check out the second edition of “Classic Rock.” In many ways the first edition was a timeless classic and although it had a couple of revisions and reprints it was essentially the same book. I’ve still got the first edition with it’s black and white photos and treasure it as a book very much of it’s era.
In fact, so much do I like the first edition that when Baton wicks produced a second edition in 2007 I didn’t show much interest. Sure, I perused it in the shops but now that I have a copy I can see it is a worthy addition to the first edition rather than a replacement.
The new edition has obviously sold well, being reprinted by Baton Wicks in 2013 and 2020 now as an imprint of Vertebrate. In many ways it is a more rounded work with contemporary photos as well as black and white photos dug from archives. Nice to see Norman Collie and Naismith featuring alongside Ashley Abraham, Haskett Smith and Harold Raeburn, to name a few.
The second edition has been totally transformed by the use of 400 colour photos both of the cliffs and climbers in action. Napes Needle, quite rightly, features large with an interesting selection of modern colour photos balanced by a classic essay by Paul Nunn and an account of the first ascent by Haskett Smith. This is a typical chapter and reflects the design of the second edition. Original tales by distinguished writers/climbers, historical photos, first ascent details and a range of photos illustrate each climb.
According to the dust wrapper blurb, “Classic Rock describes and vividly depicts eighty of the finest lower grade rock climbs in Britain…such routes retain much of their original challenge unsullied by the pitons and bolts often found on their continental equivalents. They take bold, logical lines up otherwise difficult cliffs usually cleaned and stabilised by years of use……….Britain’s traditional rock climbs, particularly the early pioneering ones, can now be seen as a great national treasure – a repository of adventure and spectacle that can provide a lifetime’s enjoyment and challenge.”
The book provides a nationwide extravaganza of some of the best lower grade climbs in the UK. It can serve as a tick list to aim for or as a memory of routes climbed, adventures enjoyed. Just flicking through brings back memories of sun drenched Cornish rock (Demo Route and Doorpost) and cream teas. Trips on the SS Oldenburg to Lundy (The Devil’s Slide). Weekends away in the Lake District (Little Chamonix, Troutdale Pinnacle and Napes Needle). Bivis out in caves at Stanage (Flying Buttress) and trips to North Wales (Milestone Direct, Hope, Grey Slab, Flying Buttress and Main Wall. I can recall epic routes on Lliewedd and weekends spent in a bunkhouse below Craig Cywarch and climbing “Will-O The Wisp.”
A significant percentage of the climbs are in Scotland and these trigger memories of the CIC Hut (Tower Ridge), Cairngorm granite (Savage Slit) and, of course the Cuillin which gets two chapters. Paul Brian writes about Cioch Direct, Arrow Route and Integrity. Perhaps the writing is of it’s time and it’s a gripping read but perhaps not the most diplomatically written. The chapter opens with, “Viewed objectively, Skye is a pretty unpleasant place. The pubs, like the people are dour and unwelcoming. The midges, irksome at the best of times, reach unbelievable levels of malevolence in July and August. Even the petrol dispensing machine in Broadford is of dubious morality and keeps the odd coin for itself. The Cuillin is a ragged chaos of broken black rocks. Nobody could call it beautiful.” Once the author gets on to the grippy quality of gabbro then his views change and the Cioch is “surely the finest luncheon spot in the country. Apart from the exhilarating situation, the place reeks of history. The flat surface seems designed for the concave bottoms of Bouvier bottles and the tapping out of Meerschaum pipes.”
Quite rightly, the Cuillin Ridge gets a chapter to itself. Ted Maden details it’s history before outlining his epic solo traverse in 1976 when he ends up benighted. “I spent the night - feet in my rucksack – head in my cagoule- bawling songs into the darkness and glimpsing occasional stars. And so this traverse, snatched from the end of the season, and pushed despite being benighted, had become an adventure and that is what climbing is about.”
The acknowledgements section sums up the book well; “Classic Rock, first published in 1978, relied on a cadre of skilled photographers, writers, wordsmiths and mountaineering experts. The original articles remain both readable and relevant.”
A classic book has received a modern make over to carry it forward into a new century. I’ve no idea if Vertebrate has any plans afoot but if I were them I’d be thinking about both a reprint and updated of “Extreme Rock” and a third edition of “Classic Rock” both done in the style of the recently published “Hard Rock.” That really would be a trilogy of classics.
This is a book, a tick list of adventures to be had and one that should be achievable by many climbers prepared to travel the length and breadth of the land. The second edition is much more user friendly with extra routes, “Other Worthwhile Climbs” and a lot of extra information. It’s well worth getting whether you are a climber just starting off or an old hand who already owns a well thumbed and treasured first edition. ...more "

Dec 01, 2020 08:33AM · see review