Status Updates From Ten Restaurants That Change...

All revolutions have to create a grim image of the past or the status quo against which they are revolting. Every “Renaissance” has to manufacture its own “Gothic” period or “Dark Ages,” that came before it, and the American food transformation that began in the early 1970s is no exception.

interesting friction between the social activists who considered fine dining too bougie and the kind of work Waters does in terms of localization and de-corporatization

I want the Four Seasons cookbook with glamour shots such as a lobster in a vase and a soup tureen staged on a snowbank

maybe it’s just how im reading it (erratically), but I feel like there’s some structural issues here, that make it repetitive or backstepping

weird how Howard Johnson’s and Four Seasons both turned into hotels

really striking how the enforcement of white supremacy, both violent and systemic, shapes every aspect of American cultural history