Status Updates From Jours barbares - Une vie de...
Jours barbares - Une vie de surf by
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Rick Douglass
is on page 367 of 447
In the homestretch now. It has been interesting to watch the author’s journey from a kid surfing in Hawaii to a grown adult who continues to challenge himself in the surf. Still gets a bit repetitive, but with each description of a new wave I feel like I gain a little better understanding.
— Sep 28, 2026 04:20PM
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