This book is a beautiful meditation on one man’s passion for surfing. It is poetically written. I will say it is a little long winded and probably could have been shortened, but doesn’t lack in content for being lengthy. A good editor maybe could have tightened the focus. With all that said, this book won the author a Pulitzer Prize, so I will rest my case. :)
— Apr 24, 2021 10:51PM
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