I love river cruising. My husband and I had been on two of them, one on the Danube and one on the Rhone. They were both fabulous trips. I wanted to go on another but most of the others sailed through Germany. I hesitated to go there.
I knew that the German government had atoned for their sins of the Holocaust. I knew that they had been giving reparations to refugees from Germany since the 1960’s. I knew that their children were taught about the Holocaust in all their public schools. I also knew that Germany has some of the strictest laws against hate speech and Holocaust denial. Still I hesitated. I had grown up among too many people with numbers tattooed on their arms and I couldn’t let go of that memory.
Then on August 12, 2017, Charlottesville happened. I watched in horror as neo-Nazis marched through that town carrying torches and chanting “Jews will not replace us.” 
Even worse, I watched the President of the United States insist at his news conference that many of the neo-Nazis marching were “fine people.” I felt that my country had abandoned me. Realizing that no country we would visit could be worse than what America was becoming, I was ready to make reservations for another river cruise.
Now that we have come back, I’m really glad that we did this cruise. We started from Basel, Switzerland and stopped in Colmar and Strasbourg, France, ended in Amsterdam and yes, stopped in Breisach, Koblenz, Heidleberg, Rudeisheim, and Cologne all in Germany. The towns in Germany were nothing like what I imagined. I don’t know what I imagined exactly but they were nothing like it. in Breisach Rudesheim town square Heidleberg HeidlebergAll the small towns and villages where we traveled were beautiful. Of course, a tour would show off the scenic places. As such, we sailed through the Loreley section of the Rhine in the morning. Designated as a UNESCO world heritage site, it took my breath away. A scene on the RhineIn Cologne, after the cruise’s walking tour, we met up with a German friend whom we had met in the intensive language school in Costa Rica where we had studied Spanish in the winter. We spent the afternoon with her seeing parts of the city away from the tourist areas where residents of Cologne actually spend time. Our friend is a very progressive woman who has experiences living throughout the world and it was great seeing her town through her eyes. in Cologne in Cologne
Except in Cologne, the only Germans we talked to extensively were the tour guides so I know to take everything that we saw with a grain of salt. One of my German friends here in America reminded me to do that. I had my moments when I saw plaques to the Holocaust and unused synagogues, but I also saw that most cities had Holocaust Museums.
In Cologne, our friend told us that there was some Nazi sentiment in some areas of Germany. There is some of that sentiment in the United States also; five Republican Congressional candidates are running as avowed Nazis and Holocaust deniers in this year’s election. Most Germans seem more aware of history than most Americans are. It was good to see a country that had recovered from Fascism but we know the horrors that happened before that recovery. We have to do whatever we can to make sure that America doesn’t repeat that history.