The land of Kauravas
West of Yamuna lies Tons, its tributary. Further west lie the Rupin and Supin, tons’ tributaries. It is this region that has somehow fallen off the maps – geographic and cultural. With Char dhams the spiritual and economical hubs of Garhwal, geographical isolation of this region, called Jaunsar, is understandable. Cultural isolation however needs a big dive into history, the mythological one that is.
“They” say that history is written by those who win the war. The Jaunsaris will agree. For this is the land where Duryodhan and karna have always been worshiped, where the natives are claimed descendants of Kauravas, where till date the local festivals celebrate defeat of the Pandava team in a game of ball against a Kaurava team. The temple architecture is rich, the traditions unique and the people very distinct. All ingredients worth preserving. But modern Hindu religion doesn’t seem to have a place for such differences. Not since Mahabharata beamed into every TV set and projected Kauravas as mean, deceitful, conniving savages against the brave, suffering Pandavas.
The proud, secluded Jaunsaris read the writing on the wall and en-mass decided to keep outsiders out of their way of life. Spend a week between them and you will probably not hear the word Duryodhana. They will worship him as they always had, but speak of him they wont. If they are not sure about your intentions they will even deny any link with Kauravas and say “what are you talking about”? And why should they not do this. They are social outcasts in Garhwal. No Govt. wants to be known as pro-Jaunsaris so they are practically living a century behind times. Villages as big as 250 families have not heard of electricity, school, road or medical facilities. No NGO’s operate here. No one speaks for them.
But there is hope. And thats in the form of sensible tourism. We trekked for 6 days in these valleys and they are amongst the best the Indian Himalaya has to offer. The meadows are huge and full of flowers, the peaks are all around and the camping sites abundant. Just about ideal for trekking. An umbrella group of local youth, trained as guides and porters, under ‘Har ki Dun protection and mountaineering agency’ organizes treks here and are starting homestays in the villages shortly. So what can you do? Just go see this place.
“They” say that history is written by those who win the war. The Jaunsaris will agree. For this is the land where Duryodhan and karna have always been worshiped, where the natives are claimed descendants of Kauravas, where till date the local festivals celebrate defeat of the Pandava team in a game of ball against a Kaurava team. The temple architecture is rich, the traditions unique and the people very distinct. All ingredients worth preserving. But modern Hindu religion doesn’t seem to have a place for such differences. Not since Mahabharata beamed into every TV set and projected Kauravas as mean, deceitful, conniving savages against the brave, suffering Pandavas.
The proud, secluded Jaunsaris read the writing on the wall and en-mass decided to keep outsiders out of their way of life. Spend a week between them and you will probably not hear the word Duryodhana. They will worship him as they always had, but speak of him they wont. If they are not sure about your intentions they will even deny any link with Kauravas and say “what are you talking about”? And why should they not do this. They are social outcasts in Garhwal. No Govt. wants to be known as pro-Jaunsaris so they are practically living a century behind times. Villages as big as 250 families have not heard of electricity, school, road or medical facilities. No NGO’s operate here. No one speaks for them.
But there is hope. And thats in the form of sensible tourism. We trekked for 6 days in these valleys and they are amongst the best the Indian Himalaya has to offer. The meadows are huge and full of flowers, the peaks are all around and the camping sites abundant. Just about ideal for trekking. An umbrella group of local youth, trained as guides and porters, under ‘Har ki Dun protection and mountaineering agency’ organizes treks here and are starting homestays in the villages shortly. So what can you do? Just go see this place.
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