A Spiti story
"For how long will you stay in the monastery?" "Marne tak." We were silent for a few minutes after the 12 year old Dorje Phonchuk said this. (Maybe there was an uncomfortable giggle in between). Taking in the matter of fact tone and the smile with which it was said.
In Spiti, the first son inherits the land, the second one becomes a monk and the third one is educated. A tradition dictated more by the economics of the land (limited cultivable land) than any other factor.
We were in Dorje's family homestay in Demul (a village in Spiti at 4300M). A concept started not too long ago by the 'snow leopard conservancy' in Ladakh and Spiti. The visitors, instead of pitching tents in the village farmland (which benefits nobody), enjoy the warm spitian hospitality and the host family gains financially. Probably the best of all sustainable tourism initiatives.
The child Lama had a calmness belying his age. "Do you miss home?" "Yes." "What do you do then?" "That evening I play really hard." Sorted, this guy was. He is staying at Komic monastery, at 4500M amongst the highest in the world and belonging to the Sakyapa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. What this means is that unlike the older sect (Nyingmapa) he will not lead a family life and will be a celibate monk for the rest of his life. He goes to the regular school in the morning and has his Buddhist teachings in the afternoon before he gets to his evening round of volleyball and running around. His regular schooling will end once he finishes 5th class and from then on its hardcore monastic life for him. And he is ready for that.
He was at home on a rare 7 day vacation. A time he spent with his entire family reaping the crop of Peas, the sweet tasting matars which the entire Spiti was harvesting at that moment. Their main source of livelihood, the once a year crop cycle ensures that, and food for the long long winters. (Along with Barley and Potato).
"Shouldn't we do something about Dorje being sent to the Monastery?" A lot of us asked this question or atleast thought about it. I guess what we need to understand is that this system has been going on for ages and is therefore something which has worked. A mixture of pragmatism and belief, its the way of life for them which of course we will not be able to comprehend.
Dorjey Phonchuk is a happy lama. He will be fine.
Dorjey (right most one) with his siblings
In Spiti, the first son inherits the land, the second one becomes a monk and the third one is educated. A tradition dictated more by the economics of the land (limited cultivable land) than any other factor.
We were in Dorje's family homestay in Demul (a village in Spiti at 4300M). A concept started not too long ago by the 'snow leopard conservancy' in Ladakh and Spiti. The visitors, instead of pitching tents in the village farmland (which benefits nobody), enjoy the warm spitian hospitality and the host family gains financially. Probably the best of all sustainable tourism initiatives.
The child Lama had a calmness belying his age. "Do you miss home?" "Yes." "What do you do then?" "That evening I play really hard." Sorted, this guy was. He is staying at Komic monastery, at 4500M amongst the highest in the world and belonging to the Sakyapa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. What this means is that unlike the older sect (Nyingmapa) he will not lead a family life and will be a celibate monk for the rest of his life. He goes to the regular school in the morning and has his Buddhist teachings in the afternoon before he gets to his evening round of volleyball and running around. His regular schooling will end once he finishes 5th class and from then on its hardcore monastic life for him. And he is ready for that.
He was at home on a rare 7 day vacation. A time he spent with his entire family reaping the crop of Peas, the sweet tasting matars which the entire Spiti was harvesting at that moment. Their main source of livelihood, the once a year crop cycle ensures that, and food for the long long winters. (Along with Barley and Potato).
"Shouldn't we do something about Dorje being sent to the Monastery?" A lot of us asked this question or atleast thought about it. I guess what we need to understand is that this system has been going on for ages and is therefore something which has worked. A mixture of pragmatism and belief, its the way of life for them which of course we will not be able to comprehend.
Dorjey Phonchuk is a happy lama. He will be fine.
Dorjey (right most one) with his siblings
No comments have been added yet.
