We spent almost 20 days traveling about East Greenland. Every day was a delight with a new wonder to behold. When not skittering across the ice-cold blue waters in zodiacs, we were learning about Greenland’s history, culture, and people. This was an expedition cruise, not to be confused with a “pleasure” cruise even if this was a pleasure in the truest sense of the word. Larry and I enjoyed navigating up and back and through the ship to find a secret corner that offered some of the best views. Warm and comfy with our coffee and pastry early in the morning, we felt incredibly adventurous while others were in the dining room, filling their plates with all kinds of culinary delights that were meant to tempt the senses and add pounds. Not only did this ‘secret’ place offer great views but there were computer screens filled with radar, weather, maps, and other fascinating information about speed, keel depth, and ship terminology I can’t remember now. In addition to these cutting-edge electronic tools, I especially appreciated the information for bird watchers, as shown above. Enlightening, to say the least!

Speaking of eating…We were not above all that. Of course, we were convinced that hauling ourselves in and out of zodiacs in our bulky parkas and boots and tromping through the wilds of this remote land surely burned up the calories we consumed three times a day including wine, decadent desserts, and bread. My downfall. Every day was a new experience. The day might start overcast and then the sun slid out, giving us sights that no painter could duplicate. My poor, amateur photos only skim the surface of this incredible place. We were blessed with wonderful weather the entire time. We heard the folks on an earlier cruise had rain every day. Our itinerary only changed because of the ice. We intended to go into Himivik Bay, but moving ice made it too dangerous.

One day we boarded the zodiacs to get up close and personal with a glacier. No boots were needed this time since we would remain on the zodiac. We bundled up in our parkas and off we went, zipping over the water, the wind blowing in our faces as we hung on to the ropes behind our backs. When we slowed to look for polar bears or muskoxen, the woman across from me noticed I had no gloves. Without saying a word, she peeled off hers: two layers, one pair of silk gloves worn next to the skin, and another pair of waterproof gloves to go on top. She handed them over. She and her family were Swiss and she spoke little English. I waved her off saying I was fine. She knew I was lying and insisted I take them. She motioned she had another pair in her pockets. Her husband leaned over and said, “Keep them. Give them back when we leave the ship.” I tried to return them later but he told us, “Give them back when you visit us in Switzerland.” He gave me his card that listed his webpage. He owns a few Chalet AirBnbs and said we could use one for free! Earlier when he was experiencing double vision, Larry gave him an extra eye patch. He was incredibly grateful. You’d have thought Larry gave him gold. I don’t know when or if we can take him up on the B&B but they were kind, wonderful people and we’re glad we met.

One day the ship offered us the opportunity to jump into the icy waters. The Polar Plunge! Our cabin balcony provided a great view of families, couples, and anyone crazy enough to make the leap. People lined up and crossed into the zodiac secured at the side. A crew member placed a tether around each jumper’s ankle and away they went, sometimes together, sometimes one at a time. Every person acted like they enjoyed it, popping back up in the water with big smiles. I think they were gritting their teeth at how cold it was. They were pulled back on the zodiac, wrapped in a towel and practically ran inside the ship to find some heat and a hot drink. But I’m sure none had regrets.

This country is wild and wonderful. I have more Greenland adventures to tell you about, and I look forward to seeing you here again. Our exploration of Scoresby Sound was fabulous. More to come!