From ‘down unda” to the top of the world, we arrived in the waters off Eastern Greenland in early August 2024. We flew into Reykjavik and boarded our small expedition ship. First on the list was to get fitted out with our parkas and boots. We went to the ship theater in groups to find our parka and try it on to make sure of a good fit. The parka was in two pieces. First, we put on a “puffy” zip-up coat (plenty warm by itself), and then came the bright ‘goldenrod’ waterproof outer parka with lots of velcro fasteners and a hood. Mine was a little snug, so I pulled it all off and tried again. The life jackets that looked more like belts (tucked in the drying closet in our cabins) went on last. I wondered if this experience was similar to what Victorian women went through when they dressed in their multiple layers of under and outer clothing. Umm. I’m sure the bright color was necessary to ensure one didn’t wander off.

In the meantime, we were sailing for Greenland, known as Kalaallit Nunaat in the Greenlandic language. In Eastern Greenland, Tunumiit is the dialect of Greenlandic that is commonly used. The ship had its own Greenland local expert on staff who taught us a lot about this amazing country, its people, and its heritage. We passed fabulous ranges of mountains and fjords. We knew we had crossed into the Arctic Circle when icebergs began drifting by. We gaped at the map and were in awe that we were really there. It’s a surreal feeling.

After the parka fitting, we trooped down to the “mud room” near the zodiac launching area, to be fitted with our boots. These would be necessary during water landings. That’s about the only way to get to shore in this part of Greenland. Being the savvy traveler I’m supposed to be, I totally dropped the ball preparing for this journey. My only excuse is we had just come from a July river cruise, and with Greenland added, the packing challenge was too much. I missed the part about bringing warm gloves, socks, mufflers, and most importantly, waterproof pants! Thank goodness we were provided woolen caps. I joined other ill-prepared scavengers in the ship’s boutiques hoping to find these things. Unwilling to take out a mortgage on the homestead, I made do with a pair of mittens for Larry and a pair of socks for myself. I looked at their selection of waterproof pants and decided I could make do with my one pair of jeans. After getting our boots, we stored them in our cubby in the mudroom. I can tell you that after our first landing, I was grateful I had those socks! The parka kept the rest of me warm and toasty.

The day of our first water landing on Greenland arrived. The expedition team had been scouring the latest maps and radar, looking for any sign of hidden ice and inclement weather. Using their binoculars they scouted out possible beach landing areas. Most of the areas chosen were inside fjords, away from the Arctic Ocean. This time Ittoqqortoormiit was chosen. By 7a.m., an advance team was on its way to scout the area to make sure that first, the landing place would be accessible to the zodiacs and second, that no polar bears were in the vicinity. The team prepped the landing area if necessary and set out their equipment, including rifles for them (In a secure locker), and walking sticks for us. Each group met in stages, with parkas on and fastened and life jackets secured. We helped each other with the life jackets. They didn’t resemble any life jacket I’d ever seen and we wrestled with it often to ensure it was right side up! But after a couple of rounds, it got easier.

Finally, our group was called and we trooped downstairs to put on our boots and line up to board the bobbing and rolling zodiac. No time for pictures there. Two men were at the exit door and two were on the zodiac, offering assistance to each passenger. We hobbled on, sat down on the rim, and slid down to the end, cheek to cheek, as it were. We grabbed the ropes behind us and held on for dear life as the driver roared away from the ship as if we were in a James Bond film chasing the bad guys. It was a blast! Before we knew it, we were on the rocky beach and one by one, each passenger was helped over the side and splashed into the shallow water. There was a definite trick to disembarking and it never came easy for some of us. Silly us, we left our walking sticks in the cabin, and by the time we arrived, all the ones the crew brought were gone. We needed them, too. Once past the rocky beach, we walked on tundra: bare ground and rock covered by mossy lichen, tiny shrubs, and who knows what. It was slippery and our boots didn’t provide much traction. One of the crew took pity on me and offered some long fiberglass stakes. I took two and they helped a lot. Larry didn’t trust them, so he found a rock to sit on. It turned out well because he found another man sitting nearby to talk to. They soon discovered their aviation background and they were happy as clams. Think of it. Running into someone to talk to on a beach in Greenland who shares your background. That doesn’t happen every day!

With my fiberglass stakes, I tromped up the slippery slope where our Greenland native expert provided information on the kind of people who lived here ages ago. I noticed several holes around, including the one above, which she said were used for shelter or storing food. These nomadic people came to this same place every year to fish. We were told we could wander around the area but not to pass the perimeter (those fiberglass stakes) set up by the crew, who we could see in the distance at the top of the hill, armed with rifles. Quite a few adventurous souls climbed to the top of the ridge. I didn’t try it. Being clumsy anyway, I didn’t want to risk a broken ankle or leg our first day out. Hearing the stories of these indigenous people and how they survived in such harsh conditions was fascinating. I felt grateful to see this incredible place and to know the land I walked on hadn’t changed much in thousands of years.

Stay tuned for future travels in Greenland. I hope you enjoyed reading about my adventures. Please LIKE and COMMENT! For more travel stories, log into my website and sign up to receive future posts at: https://vcwilliamsauthor.com/ See you soon and no matter where you are, never forget that today is important. Make it count.