Surfing is beautiful. Learning how to surf though, is anything but. Like a monk you humble yourself to the power of the ocean every day you are out there learning. At times it is violent. It bashes you. It smashes you. It tries to drown you repeatedly. You willingly take the hits, over and over again. You keep coming back for more. Why? Because when you get it right, and you’re standing on your surfboard riding the wave, moving on it, carving on it, absorbing it into your legs and body, it’s the...